pugwash

I did exactly what MBB did when I built mine last year. Was the most stressful part of the build. All straight forward from then on. Now waiting for the new version to come available from CC so I can get the recall dealt with.

Forgot to say that mine is an SV and therefore comes widetrack anyway. I don't have extenders. Perhaps the SV supersport has different shockers? While not the most helpful post, it does at least give you a few more facts! Mark

Out of the box, ie fitted as they came there was very low clearance at the front. But by winding the platform all the way up (or do I mean down, you know what I mean, to lift the nose up a bit) I achieved the magic coke can height at the front. I confess I got CC to do the final ride height adjustments which was front all the way up and back all the way down.

When I build my supersport 140 last year I fitted them the right way up. I heard the rumor about them needing to be upside down but the factory told me that was just for race cars. Went through IVA fine and nothing touches. I will BM you a picture.

John, Is that a Minno or a minno max? I have been led to believe that an SV on 6inch wheels will just about physically fit on a minno max. The question is could it actually be strapped down or do the straps foul the bodywork? 🤔

Excellent. Three builders, three different solutions. Aren't these cars great! It's not a build, more of a great big puzzle to be solved!

Agreed that the lower brackets are a challenge. However, You don't need to feed the heat shrink through the tube. You just need enough to disappear into the top grommet, feed the wires through individually using the mouse line first, and where the wires appear through into the engine compartment, use the rest of the heat shrink you cut off originally to just poke through the grommet so it looks like its continuous but its not really. Tip from CC. Good enough to pass IVA.

You will get different views on this. Some say you cannot torque until on the ground as you need the full weight on the car to ensure they are horisantle. Personally when I built mine I got them as horisantle as I could by holding them at 90 degrees to the car and torquing them up to keep them that way when i was at the same build point as you. Key thing is that when it is finally built and on the ground they are still horisantle as this minimizes bump steer. Not sure what model you are building but my headlamp brackets went on top of the damper and pointed out. Hint, run a mouse wire down through it and tie off at each end.

Nigel, As far as I am aware mine is a standard caterham duratec silencer. I bought it pre loved at the CC Sunday barbecue clearance sale and was under the impression it is as fitted to the r400/500. It's 6 inch diameter, 50 cm internal length. I have on my car a standard CC 4inch peashooter which is v loud and I intend to continue to use on the road. Pretty sure it won't pass track day noise levels. I also understand that CC removed it and fitted a standard sigma exhaust to it when they took it to SVA it for me, to be sure it would pass the noise test. When I bought the silencer i just measured it up along side a sigma supersport they had in the showroom to see if it was about the same length, which it was. Now of course the pipe diameter on the duratec and the sigma are different so I have chopped off the stubby pipe on the end of the silencer right where it meets the box and tigged in a new piece of stainless pipe which is the right diameter and length, flared to meet the standard sigma cat bypass pipe (with the help of some friends!). So now I have interchangeable silencers, one bolt, one clamp. I did a test fit and ran the car using the app decibel tester. Unpacked 6 inch gave same sound reading as the standard 4 inch, both at tick over and at 4000 rpm. So packed should make a difference. Just received the Accoustfil to pack it. Job for the week end. Mark

Thanks Paul, This one comes neatly in half with the outer sliding off to reveal just the central perforated pipe and a flange at each end. Packing looks simply to be a case of winding the filling around the perforated tube and sliding the cover back over without ruffling up the filling. Hadn't realized there were different designs. The power speed ones must be fun to pack if the inner and the outer is fixed!

I have acquired a repackable silencer (duratec r400 type) which I have modified to fit my sigma engined supersport. It's currently empty so I have ordered up some Accoustfil to pack it. During a test fit yesterday I noticed it leaks exhaust gas a little through the front end of the silencer where the flange that bolts the two parts together is. Is this to be expected and should I ignore it? Does anyone use a thin layer of silicon sealant to stop this? If you do that is it a pig to disassemble next time? When its packed will this stop this happening? I know lots of BCers recently bought through the bulk buy, which I just missed, so I know there is much experience of this out there. Any tips on packing? I have been told to wrap in cling film to hold it all together when reassembling. Any advice gratefully received. Mark.

Nick, that's the one I have. Thanks for the vote of confidence. M

Thanks all. SM25T, I have had the app for a while. I was not sure if it was a toy or if it was in any way calibrated. Do you have a view?

I have a sigma supersport with the 4 inch silencer. It seems quite loud. Apart from turning up at a track day to find I am above the noise limit and cannot take part, how else can I measure the noise level?

Nigel, I fixed mine into place with 2 cable ties and then ran the cable down the roll bar under some black insulating tape. You can hardly see it. Its on the inside edge and so not really visible. I plan to replace the cable lies with black silicon at some point but have not got round to it yet. I have a standard roll bar and the car is all road use to date but I was not happy drilling holes in it. Mark

Charlie, I have the opposite problem to you in that my radiators only come on when there is a call for hot water. Not normally a problem as water tank cools down over night and in the morning radiators come on as water tank starts to heat. Family hits showers which cools tank and keeps radiators on. All leave house and system switches off on timer. End of day all come home, tank still not up to temp from morning showers and all comes on on the timer. Radiators get hot as water tank heats up. Only a problem if tank hits stat temp before end of evening as radiators all then go off. Wall stat has no effect. Sooner or later I need to get someone to look at it. Perhaps we need to cross my system with yours to get one that works! I am sure that POBC will advise what is wrong here - plumbing not my strong point.

Thanks Phil.

Phil, You are about to get mail on the wheels. Mark

Duct tape? Isn't gaffer tape paper based?

Asking?

Oli, on my sigma 140 the sensor is in the back of the block. As part of the first start up procedure when I built mine was to fill the cooling system and then sit there with the engine ticking over and the temperature guage slowly climbing up until the fan kicks in. Unless it is sub zero in your garage then eventually the fan will kick in, or the temp guage will bend itself around the stop! Seriously, the build manual says the fan should cut in at 92 degrees, so if yours gets much more than that switch it off as you have a problem, which is pretty likely to be an airlock as SM25T says.

I also have the Voyager which came on Carl's recommendation. During the monsoon which was Le Mans classic last year the 7 was dry as a bone underneath. The two straps (nose and mid) keep it on the car. I did find that when windy the cover could blow up at the back and leave the boot area exposed. At the time a handy pile of empty beer bottles was used to weigh the back down. I have subsequently stitched to the back of the cover two loops of shock cord I recycled off an old rucksack I was about to bin, and these go over the fog and reversing lights to anchor down the back.

I have always worked on the principle for a wet sump you need to measure it when the oil is in it and not still around the engine. So either cold or after the engine has been switched off and their has been sufficient time for the oil to drain back down into it, which for me is normally 15 -30 mins. Given a dipstick is not the most scientific of instruments this always has seemed to work. Not much experience of dry sumps but I think there are different ways of doing it depending on the set up so refer to manufacturers instructions.

I posted similar a few months ago. Don't know how to link to the thread but if you search for " sigma wiring diagram code sheet" you will find the thread. Someone kindly replied they had just done it to their sigma with the answer you are looking for. I confess I have not fitted mine yet but this looks like the answer to me. I would be interested to hear how you get on and if there ar any tips you could pass.

Same as Garry7, my two letters arrived yesterday. Will wait until April for the full fix. Good to see we got there in the end. Many thanks to those above for doing the heavy lifting on behalf of the rest of us owners.