pugwash

Some trickle chargers only trickle but some are full chargers. I have ctek charger fly leads permanently connected to my élan, my 7, my smart car, and am about to fit on my boat as well. The ctek chargers are great and will condition and charge the battery and tell you what is going on. Connect the fly direct to the battery or as near as poss. On my 7 it is on to the FIA isolator switch as this was a neater solution. I have never had to jump the elan in 15 years of ownership. If you get a good battery and look after it with a conditioner on it, it will last you a long time. I also had one on an Aston Martin which was notorious for flattening its battery and the ctek was great. The latest flyleads have traffic lights on the fly connector itself so you can see at a glance what the state of the battery is, although in the main when they are in the garage I keep them on the chargers.

Yes, well done - they are clearly taking it seriously. I know they are following this thread and it is good to hear they are making some progress, even if the communications could do with some work. Will sit and wait in the knowledge that a solution will be ultimately forthcoming.

I built an SV with lowered floors earlier in the year. I ordered the carpet set and as part of the kit it came with carpet pieces to go under the seats. Hence CC do have them. Question is will they supply just the one piece.

Interesting. The numbers i posted are what CC told me a sigma Supersport should be set at. I will have to have a look at the dial next time I hit it!

Boss, I believe you have a sigma supersport. If so the red line is 7200 and the shift light ex. Factory comes on at 6600, although I believe that is changeable by the factory. It is a bright red light when it comes on, although in my car it's hidden by the steering wheel. You can't miss it. When I built mine there was a single cable which comes from the light, through the bulkhead. I had to dismantle the big green plug which goes into the ecu, and insert the single cable into (from memory) location 16 on the green plug. There was nothing in the manual on this. I had to call the factory to ask about it. I think how it works is simply when the ecu hits 6600 it sends 12v down the line and lights the light. As I can't actually see mine I am about to install the DRE shft lights as well.

On a trailer on the M40 heading south about 7.00 this evening. Towed by a land rover.

Thanks KRL, That is most helpful. Several people have mentioned the black and white cable, but I have a black and white, and a white and black. That was exactly the info I needed. I assume that there is an earth in the plug too which should be easy to find, but the pragmatic stick it under a bolt works well for me too. Mark

I am looking to wire some DRE Shift up lights to my 2012 Sigma supersport. I have the wiring diagram and have pulled the single multiplug off the back of the rev counter which has 17 cables in it. The wiring diagram identifies the colours and next to each one is a code which I am guessing tells you what the cable is for. I could run around them all with a multimeter and try and work out what they do but if someone has a "conversion sheet" that would be most useful. Or have I got this completely wrong!

Mine went through IVA with the catch tank in place and both breathers in it.

If its anything like the supersport sigma I built earlier in the year, both those pipes go into your catch tank. What catch tank, I hear you say. That's what I said to CC. In your kit you should have a white plastic tank with a steel bracket. This needs 2 holes cut in the top, to be mounted front left of the engine bay. Both those pipes feed in. Cut them so they dangle half way down the tank. You are right in that you would have thought that one goes onto the throttle body, but I was told no, and I needed a rubber cap to go over the tempting looking spigot on the throttle body. This was also not supplied in the kit so CC had to send me one. None of the above was in the manual. If any of this seems to make sense then BM me and I can send photos. Of course the academy car may be different.........

So are there two problems going on here? One, a bolt falls out for some reason causing the diff to twist and crack the case. Two, the bolts at the top rear of the diff carrier while being tightly screwed in are able to contact the de dion tube causing damage. Are they linked. To date I appear to have no damage but I (and others I am sure) would like to know if A) This problem does not appear on my car set up B) This problem will only occur if the bolt comes loose and a special washer will help stop that C) you have been lucky so far and it will inevitably happen Do you think we can get CC to issue a definitive as to what's going on? Mark

Ian, I think you have two questions here, one about shelter and one about condensation. They are linked because of the Airchamber. I have a Carcoon which is a bit like your Airchamber and designed to work inside a garage. The principle is it stops the car from getting damp from condensation because it effectively maintains the car and the air surrounding the car at the same temperature. Condensation only forms when the air is a different temperature to the surface. For a car in a garage if the temp of the air inside the garage drops changes rapidly relative to the temp of the car there is a potential for condensation. What the Carcoon does is create a bubble of air around the car which only changes in temperature relative to the car very slowly and hence reduces condensation (as well as keeping the car nice and dust free). The amount of air inside the bubble changes very slowly - the principle is not to blow as much air as possible over the car, but to allow enough air to change so that the temp / humidity changes very slowly. In practice of course the temp / humidity of the air in the garage is not so far away from what is inside the bubble at any one time. If you move the airchamber outside in the rain then you have much greater difference between the inside and the outside and any moisture inside the chamber will tend to condense on the inside of the chamber itself (like on a bedroom window on a cold morning). Carcoon used to (and may still do) outdoor versions but these were multi layered and heavily insulated to prevent this happening. If you simply want an outside garage then I would have thought the cover you linked to looks good, or just use the airchamber and leave unzipped sufficient for the air to circulate (like a big car port). That will sort your condensation problem (as much as it can be sorted). Your approach of mechanically dehydrating the air will work of course but as you have suggested, brings its own challenges. Could you rent a garage off a neighbour / local council etc? (Sits back and waits for critique on technical description above!)

Just jacked mine up and took wheel off and had a good look. No visible sign what so ever of any contact with the bolt on either side. I can see how with enough compression the bolts could hit as they would be in the plane of travel of the de dion, but mine is clean. For info, I think the supersport runs with a harder rear end, shocks, watts linkage and arb which may mean it compresses less than a Roadsport. Either that or I have not leaped over a big enough bridge yet! I have photos for reference if anyone is interested.

Just had Dave out to do the full works on my car. Looks really good. Would completely recommend.

Spotted 2.15 today close to the RAF station in Walters Ash. Looked pretty shiny in metallic blue. Still seemed to have the cling film on the rear window which you get when you unwrap for the first time.

My 2012 supersport delivered as a kit to me end of Feb looks to have this type of carrier. I will have to crawl under the car at the week end to see if I have any kisses on the de deon. From photos I took during the build it looks a long way from the tube to those bolts but on the road under suspension compression I guess it might get there.

Just bang a scotchlock into it. Job done. Sits back and waits for comments around "bodge job".

small wager on the Rotor Arm. Internal crack. goes to earth through dizzy spindle when under load. test by removing dizzy cap and apply hold (using gloves) end lead coil to dizzy to the metal part of the rotor arm. fiddle with points to cause field collapse (or turn the enging over). If the lead sparks to the arm its broken. probably other ways to test but this is I think the most exciting! 😬

test 3

Test 2

Test

Martin, YHM. Mark

My current model Supersport (sigma) comes as standard with a shift light between the tach and the speedo. Unfortunately the rim of the steering wheel comes exactly in line between my eye and the light so when it comes on I cannot see it. CC say I am the first person to mention this. It also obscures the LHS indicator repeater light too and the top halfs of both the speedo and the tach, but who ever looks at those! Any other Supersport owners have the same problem? I have lowered floors and am 5 ft 11. My proposed solution is to drill another hole in the dash an inch lower and move the light but I am open to suggestions. Regards Mark

I have the lightweight indoor outdoor cover which seven speed supplied. Keeps the dust off in the garage and kept the monsoon out down at classic le mans this year. packs down small in its own bag so you can carry it behind the seat. Mark

Try swapping the rotor arm for a new one. Had intermittent engine stopping problems on my Élan a few years ago. Turned out to be crack in rotor arm such that the rivet through the rotor arm allowed spark to earth through to the shaft of the distributor. Took me a while to find it as was intermittent to the point it failed completely and would not start. Easy to test then as the lead off the coil will spark to earth without the dizzy cap on. May not work with a multimeter as may need the power of the coil to drive it to earth. Talking to some of the classic boys at the time it was thought there was a bad batch of these made with the rivet too far into the plastic which eventually led to failure. Anyway, a cheap fix for me once I had worked out what it was and I now carry a spare rotor arm just in case ( in that car). Mark