pugwash
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Everything posted by pugwash
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The miles in the odometer are not going up.
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Mid blat speedo dropped to the bottom of the dial, bounced up and down a few times and then just sat there. Shortly after that went over a bump and it came back to life briefly, then dies again. Odometer display still visible but not going round. Cables seem secure in the back of the dial, no visual damage to sensor to plug cable on rear right wheel. Not checked any fuses yet as assumed that because LCD was working I have power, but I am happy to be educated on this. Searches suggested when power goes it all goes. Car is 2012 supersport 140 with 2000 miles on it. Not checked the sensor flashing light yet - do these sensors just fail? Before I run around the whole car with a multimeter, anything obvious I should check?
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It's possible the starter button is not wired in. I recall that from a previous post on here. On my supersport you can just twist the key to start the engine same as a "normal" car as an alternative to pressing the start button. I have to lift the fob up a bit to get it closer to the wire loop to turn off the immobiliser so it sounds like you are passed that stage. Try giving the key a twist a bit further once the immobiliser has disengaged. Mark -
Jez, you have mail. Mark
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My BJ trailer has a sticker on the front with the tyre pressures listed on it.
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Also interested, subject to wot he said Danke.
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I went through a similar process as I drove the Supersport - Sigma and the R300 - Duratec back to back. I wanted primarily road use. I agonised for some time and in the end I went for the Supersport as I felt the drive had more "zing" and was just a bit more "peppier". The R300 was undoubtablty a bit faster and my head was just saying buy the quicker one, but to me it just felt not quite as alive as the Supersport. Of course sigma upgrades are available and i have already been up to see Stuart!
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I have one on my RIB for exactly that purpose. Mine came from Kevin Mole Outboards in Cowes but I would expect that most chandlers would have something similar. Force4 below have one in their on line shop. http://www.force4.co.uk/1801/Force-4-Standard-Storage-Net.html
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If I recall correctly mine only took about 1.3l. I was also confused by the manuals claim it would take 1.9l but I had been pre warned this would be the case so after the first litre I poured it in a little at a time. I had a plastic pipe taped to a long thin piece of wood with a funnel on the end gravity fed from above. If its trickling back out the hole then must be full was my conclusion.
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Mount them on the windscreen IVA style. You cant open the doors all the way to the bonnet but you can use the mirrors.
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I think you are on the right lines. I just filled my sigma 140 as per the first start instructions including the back fill of the heater. Bit disappointed when all 5 liters in the CC supplied first fill fluid pack disappeared down into the pipes and left an empty header tank. Apparently with a heater it takes about 5.5 l! I had no issues with airlocks. So if you have got a bit over 5 liters and back filled the heater should be ok. When you start up, the bleed tube from the back of the engine to the header tank will just continuously top up the tank. This is different to earlier sigmas where this tube went to the rad. You can top up the levels after the first start if it is a bit low.
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I kicked this around for some time too. I measured my SV with 6 inch tyres which theoretically would fit on a minnow max with about 1cm each side. Searched the archives but could not find a definitive answer or anyone with an SV and minnow max combo. When I spoke to BJ they were unsure as although the car might fit they had concerns about the ability to strap it down as the straps could foul the wheel arches. They suggested I brought the car up to try out on one. Meanwhile a 2 year old TT came up on pistonheads so I snapped it up. Fits fine both for car and in the garage. Mine does not have the folding hitch but still fits, just, in the garage. Mark
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CC managed the process for me, this time last year. However I am pretty sure that I filled in and signed the forms, posted them to CC who added the IVA test paperwork and posted the whole lot off. No presentation for inspection. A few days later back comes the tax disc and CC made up the plates for me. I just turned up and drove it home. I think the DVLA do have the right to call the vehicle for inspection but I don't know how common that is.
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I dutifully trimmed the fog and the reversing light and when it came back there was no trim around them. CC told me it was not needed any more! CC presented it for me. Similar the rubber washers on the door hinges, I was told by CC that they were not needed for the IVA but when it came back from CC they had added these. I got the feeling it was more of an art than a science, and each time CC presented one they learned what the current "trend" was and modified cars they were presenting accordingly.
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Oh, and depending on the age of the car there may already be a connector on the loom for you to plug the third brake light into. Mine was on the offside just inside the wheel arch.
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Nigel, Different cars have different plugs into the back of the tachometer and so depending on what you have the approaches will be slightly different. I have just fitted my DREs on to a 2012 sigma and my tachometer has a single 17 cable connector which does not have a lot do slack to play with. Older cars will have more of a spade type connector which allows the piggyback approach. I put mine on with scotchlocks which I have been using for over 30 years. Others will consider these the spawn of the devil and I am a complete heathen for using them! Mark
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I had to take off my aero to get the drill in the right position so can see your problem. If you have the captive nuts it will be 4 easy bolts to remove windscreen. If not then I guess it's a bit of a coin flip as to which way you go.
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They are very stiff. I had the same problem and worried about damaging them, took mine to a local ford garage where they did me a favour and wound them back in.
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It's right if you can just roll a coke can under it!
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Mine is 8cm under the sump. SV sigma. Set up by CC.
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And the four not backlit are handbrake/test, heated screen, fog light and something else.............
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Just bought a Brian James TT. Fits in the garage and the SV goes on with plenty of space to spare. Unfortunately a bit more costly than a minno max but received wisdom seemed to be that SVs don't fit. If you have an S3 then much more choice available.
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Finally got round to fitting mine. Nice piece of kit. Not sure why it took me so long to install as its three wires and one hole to drill. Would recommend.
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CTEK also do a short flylead which has the three LEDs in it. I have one wired to my battery, actually to the FIA cut off switch and for driving it is tucked up under the dash so you can't see it. To connect my ctek charger I just drop it down and plug in the charger. I was going to fit a standard flylead for this purpose to avoid having to remove the bonnet to put batt on trickle. This one was only a few pounds more and gives an instant look at battery condition if the charger is not connected. If I turn off the FIA switch, everything, including the LEDs are switched off. I also have one exactly like the link fitted to the batt on my élan. I just use it as a fly lead rather than dash mounted but the cable is much longer than the standard fly lead so works better for me.
