pugwash

My son has just upgraded to the latest bit of kit from Apple so up for sale is his Mid 2011 11” MacBook Air (model number MC969LL/A). The computer has the following specifications: 1.6 Ghz Intel Core i5 processor (i5-2467M) 4GB 1333Mhz DDR3 RAM 128GB Flash Storage Intel HD 3000 Graphics with 384MB of video memory shared with the system 11.6-inch widescreen with resolution of 1366x768 The computer is in full working order and is in extremely good condition. It comes in the original box with the setup guide, apple stickers, power brick with 3 pin adapter and the extension cable. There is very light wear on the corners but there are no scratches or scuffs, as the machine was kept in a protective sleeve (which I’ll include for free) when not in use. The machine has been factory reset and is ready for the new owner to log in and set up. It has Mac OS X Lion (10.7) installed (the version it came out of the factory with) and the new owner can upgrade to the latest version Mac OS X Sierra (10.12) with a simple Mac App Store download if they desire. This machine has given great service, but having recently upgraded to a Late 2016 MacBook Pro and so it’s got to go! Seem to go for around £400 on well known auction site so asking £360. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/m2r1cbopouidx2a/AAB4pWmpNsC7_eMjDD3tAy1ya?dl=0

Mine are vinyl from the factory and do go down the back panel.

Rob, when I built mine in 2012 the manual suggested that the brackets went on with the suspension and the lights sometime after in the way that you say you have read in some blogs. The key trick that CC told me at the time was that plastic sleeving that comes as standard around all the wires from the headlight does not need to go all the way down inside the bracket. So what I did was before fitting the bracket ran a mouse line of a long piece of single electrical cable through the bracket and then left it with a knot tied in each end. When it came to fit the headlight, I cut the plastic sleeving so I had at the headlight end just enough to go from the headlight to the entry point on the bracket and positioned that over the cables next to the headlight bowl. I then, one at a time, taped the headlight cables to my mouse line and drew them through one at a time. My mouse line was long and I taped the cable into the middle of it so i could gently both pull and push it through. Clearly something you can't do with string. Once one was through, I untaped it and then repositioned my mouse line for the next run. When they were all through and I was happy with how much slack I had in the right places, I simply pushed the end of the sleeving at the external end into the grommet just enough to keep it in place. I might have used a blob of silicon sealant to secure, I can't recall. At the under bonnet end I cut about the right length of sleeving off the spare and put that over the trailing ends and again pushed it into the hole where the grommet is and secured it. Then just fitted the multi plug. Of course you could use heatshrink instead of the sleeve. I can't recall if it's an IVA requirement for it to be sleeved all the way or not but this way it looks like it is even if it's not. Inside the bracket it's protected by the bracket. Was not an issue for my IVA. I recall the fitting of the headlights being fiddly more because of checking everything was in the right order (don't forget everything has to go through the securing nut too!), but getting the cables through the bracket was quite straightforward.

If it was nothing to do with a 7 I would have said it was a harness for a head unit (radio cd). One set of wires goes off to at least 4 speakers and the other contains power, switched power, earth, electric aerial feed, lighting feed for dimming display etc. The third bigger black connector is the aerial lead. The black box is a multi pin connector that slots in the back of the head unit. But if it's off a 7 then no idea!

When I switch from windscreen to Aero I have a pair of the black plastic nut covers (like the one on the exhaust bobbin by the rear wheel arch) which I pop over the spindles to keep things tidy. They are a bit of a loose fit so I pop a blob of blue tack on top of the spindle and then push the nut cover over the top. The blue tack is sufficient to "glue" the cover in place but a good pull at the end of the summer gets it off easily. As is the nature of blue tack once it's been on something for a bit it can be hard to get it all off. I have found that the tiny amount left stuck in the grooves of the spindle does a great job of helping the wiper arms to stay exactly where I want them. I have not in the past experienced them coming off on their own but this may be why!

Alan, I tried a pair like that on the doors of my Elan for a while (was some time ago!). They do look good. The drivers side one was fine but the passenger side did not have enough adjustment in the glass to allow you to see anything behind you. So practically not much use. Back in the day they were designed to go on the wings so the adjustment angle did not have to be so great. Maybe the ones you can buy today have better angle of adjustment but see if you can try before you buy.

One thing I did which is not in the manual was to attach the rear wheel arches using plastic (nylon?) bolts rather than the metal ones provided. They hold it just as tight but in the event one does clip one on something, the bolts go first rather than ripping all the rivnuts out of the body. Mine came from Sevenspeed but i think they are quite widely available.

I drove Caterhams 420 demonstrator on Friday and it had no more "vibration" than my supersport. Does sound like something is amiss. Can you get it to CC to get it up on a ramp and do a direct comparison with another?

As soon as it arrives, beat the diff with a stick. Do this every day. That way you can take your frustration out on it before you try and fit it! l mounted my chassis on the top setting on the axle stands as it was great to have the clearance under the car when building. You do need a way to get it down if you do that. Do remember the body doesn't weigh that much and it is possible to bench press the whole thing up in the air when you are underneath (refer to diff comment above). Above all, enjoy! Tea and patience are your friends.

Sold.

Hard wired on to the appropriate terminals on the battery cut off switch. Used the ctek accessory lead with the three LEDs to give instant view of battery condition. The socket end is fixed with a short dangle next to the steering column.

I now have some photos. PM me if interested.

Red with silver tridion cell. 2 owners, 25000 miles, 71bhp - 999cc, Mot March 2017, full service history, electric soft top, electric windows, electric heated mirrors, air conditioning, additional Smart instruments (clock and rev counter), radio/cd with Alpine DAB upgrade, ABS, ESP, good tyres, alloy wheels, 4 airbags, heated rear window (glass), Smart glovebox bag, rear compartment cover, Smart carpet mats, excellent condition. £2995.

I sprayed a couple of coats of Stoneguard on the inside surface of mine when I built it. 4 years on, no star cracks. I worked on the basis that the coating simply needs to be just enough to absorb the initial impact of a stone to prevent a star appearing.

Very good.

We had a horsey place in the next village that seem to use them for saddles and things. I got some from there a while back. They seem to be good quality. So if you have a riding centre or the like nearby then could be a source.

Green wheel arches, ally body with green nose and race stickers. With full weather gear. 7.30 this morning. I followed you from Bradenham to around Bicester on the M40.

First registered 31st March 2015. One owner (me). VW Move Up! 1.0 60 ps 5 speed manual. 5 door. Candy white paint with black dash and anthracite cloth interior. Extras from standard spec include Waffle 15" Alloy wheels, Maps and More, touch screen navigation/radio infotainment device,Sound pack (extra speakers), VW luxury carpet mat set. DAB radio, CD and Aux input. Air conditioning, Electric front windows, Power steering, ABS, twin airbags Not quite at 4000 miles and just had first service. Balance of manufacturers warranty (nearly two years left). Its been my station car for the last 12 months. For a city car, plenty of space inside and very comfortable ride, probably the best in class. Change of plans means it unfortunately has to go. £6995. message me if any interest with contact details

Did they put in new front brake pads? They may need bedding in.

Mine is of a similar era and can "grab" occasionally (has always done it from new). I just put it down to the angle the barrel sits at. I find if I push the key in slightly as I am switching off it just pops out.

I went the other way around. Used the existing rivet holes but "relieved" the panels appropriately at the top so they fitted in OK. mark

Phil, sorry to hear of your woes. I am sure the experts have tried this but have you bypassed the inertia fuel cut off switch? I think it cuts the fuel pump and you say you have good fuel pressure so probably not, but I always start with the simple things first! Mark.

I am sure you will try this but before you disassemble the switch connect the two wires together to confirm it is a switch problem!

Duct taped it to the jack so it wasn't going anywhere (lots of tape) but still with a bit of flexibility to allow for some wiggle. Then with help of son, popped a screwdriver in each hole to get the alignment about right. Then the fun started. For me the bottom bolts were simple but the long one across the top was a compete pain. My feelings on this are well documented! In the end used the multi socket extension bar technique to twist the bush sufficiently and voila! i did start with the bench press approach but found I was bench pressing the entire rear end of the car off the stands, which did not feel good at the time!

That should do it!