pugwash
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Everything posted by pugwash
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On my 2012 sigma I have two different silencers (the peashooter and a modified R500 repack able) plus a cat bypass pipe. I have never used paste so that I can easily unbolt and swap as required. As long as the clamps are properly adjusted I have never had any problems with leakage.
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Size of steering wheel too. I think you have the tiny suede Momo supersport one like I have. Can’t recall what Garth has on his but a bigger steering wheel will mean less effort to turn.
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Will, there is a known problem with cars of that era and a known modification which is to earth the pick up sensor on the rear wheel close by the sensor. My car is 2012 and CC did the mod for me during first service. My first symptoms were the speedo worked fine but the odometer would sometimes fail to register the right distance. Would be worth checking who you bought it from if the mod has been done. I now occasionally get intermittent speedo failure but a quick wiggle of the cable brings it back. Some on here will tell of sensors failing and a new version being available but I have not needed to go down that route. Testing the sensor is quite easy too. There is a light on the end of it that shows when it reads from the wheel.
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Ah, ok. For some reason I seem to prefer to mount landscape, whereas it sounds like you go portrait. Hence my cable goes in the side. I should try it like you suggest and there won’t be a sideways pull downwards.
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Hi Strangely, that’s really neat. I also use iPhone for satnav and keep it plugged into the 12 v supply while doing it. Is there enough “stickiness” in the magnet to prevent the phone twisting/sagging at an angle with the drag of the cable to one side?
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I also have an SV and don’t suffer the aforementioned breathing issue. No doors is great. No windscreen is better!
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Bit of a long shot here but I seem to recall that when I built my 2012 Supersport there was some confusion in the manual about the brake lines screwing into the three way brake pipe union on the dedion and the use of washers. I am struggling to remember what but IIRC it resulted in the pipe not being able to seat properly into the union. This may of course be a red herring but if your investigations prove it is brake fluid you have leaking then this could be something to investigate.
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Running the heater fan with the heater water valve turned off will blow ambient temp air into the foot wells and may displace some of the hotter air. Of course if you don’t have a heater that’s not much help! Oh, and try losing the wind deflector between the seats. Then the doors........ And then the windscreen.....
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Try shortening the two pipes that go into the catch tank so they are half way down the tank. On my sigma engined car with catch tank I led the input pipes right to the bottom of the catch tank and had the same problem of misting going everywhere from the exit pipe. I found that as soon as I had anything in the catch tank I was then “blowing bubbles” through the contents of the catch tank and creating a mist that exited through the vent pipe. As soon as I shortened them the problem went away.
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Why not just ditch the inertias and use the harness all the time? I have an SV with 4 point harness and while it might take a few more seconds to put on than the inertia’s it is very easy to live with.
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Not sure this helps, but personally I have not moved the mirrors since the IVA. Mine was self build and I decided I could see better with the mirrors on the Iva stalks on the windscreen rather than on the doors. So I never drilled the doors. When I remove the doors the mirrors are still there. Only real drawback of this is you cannot swing the doors up against the bonnet but you soon get used to that.
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X33 *** orange with black stripes spotted in Newport today lunch time. I was in Silver Range Rover so you would not have seen me!
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That’s interesting. I was supplied with led indicator units for my build. Looks like CC have gone back to ones with bulbs.
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Like Jim I just pushed mine on. I did relieve some of the excess rubber on the underside to assist with the curve radius. 5 years later it’s still there. Warm the strip a bit to make it more flexible.
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Who said anything about the glass. Just relieve the wall by 2mm!
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Englishmaninwales, some years my Elan does 100s miles and some years a bit more. It is pretty reliable and always starts and stops, and is great fun to drive. It's been to Le Mans and back many times. However it is 48 years old and I would not use it as a daily driver any more than I would use the Caterham as a daily driver. It would be possible in either of course but something also fun but maintenance free makes more sense as a general runabout, hence the MX 5. And for extra Mazda oomph then BBR do a range of go faster options.
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Hi John, I have a MX5 Mk 4 2 litre. Good to drive and a comfortable place to sit. Not hugely quick but very nimble. Recommended. There is something Elan like about it, with the added benefit that things don't fall off it on a regular basis!
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For info, when I fitted my catch tank I made sure the two breather pipes went right to the bottom of the tank to catch everything. Of course as soon as there was any liquid in there, gasses being vented bubbled nicely through the liquid and blew a stream of fine oily vapour through the breather gaps! Shortening the pipes to be half way down the tank sorted that out and it now works properly.
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I have a 2012 super sport with a 140 sigma and the FIA master cut off switch, factory fitted. On mine when you flick the switch the immobilized light goes out so I guess everything is powered down. Having read the thread again, I am wondering why you don't just fit a simple switch, discarnect style, to the battery and then just switch it off when not using it. I realize you would need to lift the bonnet to do this but it's only 4 catches and when turning it off you would not do the catches back up until you turn it on again. As back up, a battery on the ground with a set of jump leads seems simplest solution. Or even one of those new lithium jump packs which I have seen but confess have no direct experience of.
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My 2012 supersport came with the wiring for this on the loom in the bootspace. You do occasionally see a 7 of that era with the socket mounted in the rear bulkhead given that wiring. Seemed nuts to me as the body sticks into the boot and would be bound to get knocked about and the wires potentially pulled off. Mine is actually mounted on the passenger side on the bulkhead in the hole the steering column goes through on a lh car and then straight to the battery via a fuse. This recommended by CC as the alternative position.
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My Elan has a switch that just turns all the dashboard illumination off completely. It's a bit strange driving like that in the dark but helps with the night vision given the candles it would have originally been fitted with in place of headlamps.
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Thanks for the heads up. Just bought one to fit on my Range Rover which has intermittent use and does suck the life out of the battery when not being used. It's not intermittent enough to warrant permanent hook up to a Ctek charger, like the 7, so this should be useful.
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Phil, thank you for your generous offer! I will let you know. BTW, how's that engine of yours now?
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Hmmmmm.... thats what I have at the moment....... temptation, temptation!
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Dave, what did you have before the upgrade? Mark
