virden

Stranraer

1, Aldon Ignitor LU-143A, new unused. £70 2. First Line Mechanical fuel pump FFP445, new unused £12 3 Ajusa Head Gasket 84mm FB731, new unused £20 4. Crankshaft from 1700 Supersprint, not used since regrind, includes unused ACL-Duraglide 780 Bearing-mains, B/E and thrust £150 Photos available, all unused items in original packaging Above prices exclude postage

I agree with Tazio, renew the warning light sensor and change the gauge with a capillary version, you can get both from Demon Tweaks, or CBS. Are you using 20/50W oil?

Elie Try these guys: www.powertrackbrakes.co.uk, I received excellent service from when I replaced the M/C on my 96 X/F

Sadly none of the above, Burton and Aldon only sell complete kits

For over ten years I have had the fan thermocouple switch located in the top of the radiator and the temp gauge bulb in the tower above the thermostat. I have been told by an engine builder that the two are the wrong way around. Is he right? Does anyone have a picture of a pressured cooling system fitted to a X/F with a heater?

Anybody know where I can buy a four magnet ring to fit an Aldon electronic ignition set on a Caterham modified X/F distributor?

At last it works! The distributor had "excess " lateral movement and we suspect the electronic ignition was also delaying its spark. Oh the joys of owning a X/F Thanks again for your support.

Found a +5 degree movement in the distributor shaft so have ordered a replacement from Burton, shall let you know when fitted. Thanks for your support.

Hi All, thanks for your input, some progress has been made, an air leak was found in the rubber hose connecting the fuel line in the tunnel to the pump, the trumpets refitted and now the plugs are now getting wet, but she is still not firing. Attention is turned again to the ignition, the timing is correctly set and there are no voltage issues with coil or distributor which is fitted with a Pertronik LU143 Igniter kit, could have gone wrong rather than simply failing??

Nigel, Elie, I had a mechanic drop by to look her over, sadly he is too young to have knowledge of X/Flows (!!!) but he had a good look through, reckons the new pump pressure is acceptable, but confirmed that for some reason fuel is not being sucked through the carbs, timing & sparks being OK. We tightened up the carbs to the manifolds to avoid any possibility of air leaks, but to no avail. On the bench all jets and channels within the carbs appear clear. No idea where to look next.

Elie, the readings varied by.4 bar, and were taken on a cod engine HJF, we have spark, and no, the plugs are dry

I have a mechanical fuel pump on my 96 Super Sprint (25K miles). The car had been running well and then refused to restart, we diagnosed lack of fuel going to the carbs, the filter was changed and the fuel lines blown through, but fuel flow was insufficient to fire her up. A new mechanical pump from Burton was fitted, the fuel filter, sited at the tank exit fills with fuel, but next to no fuel exits the pump. It is possible to mis-install the pump, the fact the filter fills suggests not? HELP! Update: I have blown the pipe from the tank both ways and all is clear, also the filter is free flowing, checked the tank breather (2mm hole in filler cap)and it is clear. Flow from the pump to the carbs appears good, when I switch off and loosen the banjos fuel sprays out. Have checked floats, valves, pumps and jets in the 40's and all were clear, float chamber appears to fill and the starter jets spray when the throttle is open, but for some reason the engine does not seem to draw fuel when turning over. Have tighten the carb nuts and done a cold compression test, which showed an average of 10.2 bar. What have I misse?

I agree with Elie's explanation for use of plain washers and I was taught to use spring washers where the bolt was subject to excessive vibration or high temperatures which would melt nylocs.

Many thanks all. Elie I am proposing to drill at the front end of the cover, directly opposite the 2nd rocker bearing block, this seems to offer most room and easiest routing for the breather under the heater pipe