pugwash

I have a Brian James TT Minor that does exactly that. Mine doesn't have the folding front hitch but still fits in the garage.

I have the storm force voyager cover which I originally bought as a lightweight rain proof cover for my first Caterham trip to Le Mans. It works equally well as an indoor cover. I know this does not fulfil your request as a soft cover but to be honest I am not sure any cover is really going to work against three determined youngsters! Good car choice by the way. I have a 2012 Supersport 140 SV so could be marginally biased.

Just to add to the mix, you could also consider an RF transmitter style of device, which broadcasts an FM signal picked up by the head unit. Advantage here is that you don't have to have anything at all hanging out the front of the head unit. I have used the Pure one in the past but a quick look at Halfords website suggests there are a number of devices in this space. Jonathan, you are right, and the Kenwoood does not have a USB Aux either hence the need to power any external device from somewhere else.

The 3.5mm cable is probably the simplest solution but if you want something a bit neater then consider a Bluetooth adapter. The advantage is that you can run all your phone functions through it. As an example I have a https://www.fiio.com/μbtr in one car (self contained rechargeable battery) and a Tunai Firefly in another (needs USB power). Other manufacturers products are available.

I have the SBFS cloth SV version. I fold the sides in and roll it up and at the end of the rolling, roll it into the cloth sleeve and clip it closed. Then I either clip it to the roll bar or pop it in the boot.

I have a Thor copper and hide mallet but recently inherited my fathers old Thor no3 double hide hammer. Not been used for decades and the hides were dried out and completely loose. Having read this thread I was inspired to do something about it so started by soaking the head overnight in a bucket of water with a bit of washing up liquid in it. I then left it to dry for a few days. Hide now seems locked back into place. Not sure how long it will take before they dry out again but for now I have a functioning hide hammer. Now to start on the 1959 Primus 210 stove in a box that I also inherited.

If it helps, this is a 2012 sigma 140 for comparison.

Forgot to say mine are "double stacked" press studs so that you can push a press stud "cap" onto them and can still use the full tonneau when the aeroscreen is on the car. The photo probably shows that better than my explanation. So if you are sourcing them and plan to use the tonneau you need that sort.

like this

I think the answer is yes! Mine came from Caterham and already had the press studs fitted. I have the SV carbon fiber one. In terms of positioning I do have to ease the trim back a little to allow the lip of the aero screen to fit down and pop on securely and then push it back. I guess they are standard press studs and so widely available. We used to have a horse riding school down the road and I would buy mine from them. My aeroscreen is not on the car right now so let me know if any pictures would be useful.

I see no responses so maybe this will help. Is it a Ford or Mazda gearbox? If it's a Ford it's not the easiest of things to get to as the access plug doesn't have much clearance. If you can get hold of the build manual it may help. I accessed mine from below. To get to mine the advice was to cut a short straight piece off the right sized Allen key so this could be inserted into the access plug. The other end of the piece goes into an appropriate sized ring ratchet spanner and slowly turned. Mine was a self build in 2012 so I had to fill the gearbox from above and then get up underneath to put the plug in the hole and tighten it up. Fiddly and mostly done by feel.

Ah, fair point. We don't know what the dent is in but dolly and hammer is not so good with aluminium.

Grab a dolly and go at it with a hammer!

I sprayed a couple of coats of stoneguard. Seems to have done the trick.

Hi Alan, welcome. I have a 2012 Supersport with a similar but not identical to the car in the ad. SV, lowered floors etc. I built mine in 2012 and had Caterham IVA it. As has been previously stated, it makes no difference whether you home build or factory build for the registration to be a normal one and not Q. The original supersports came on 13inch wheels, bilstein shocks, had the LSD as standard and also had a bespoke dash layout with the minor instruments clustered and the switches in a single group. Carbon dash was an option but they only came in standard layout and not the Supersport version. The whole sprint ratio story is interesting and caused a few ructions at the time as the linked thread shows. Mine came with a standard 5 speed Ford box and a quicker diff, and was one of the first to use the BMW casing rather than the Ford. I did chase Caterham on the box issue. Initially they said it was short production run and there were none left, but on chasing they did say that if I really wanted I could swap my box for the "sprint" box as they would find me one. I had built the car by then and when I looked at the ratios there wasn't much in it so I decided to stick with what I had. There was a story going around that in order to market such a low 0-60 time they had used "sprint" ratios in the demonstrator but never really intended these to be in full production. Not sure if that's true or not. They also came with tillets as standard with an option on leathers. The GT seats were an option but were supposed to be a lot heavier and so I stuck with the standard leather seats. Supersports all had black packs as standard, and a smaller suede steering wheel with Supersport in the middle. Of course then as now you can order any options you like on a Caterham to personal taste and all Caterham's are excellent, regardless of what you get. So that could be a Supersport or perhaps a Roadsport (hence the 15 inch wheels) with some Supersport bits on it. Not sure if any of this helps but let me know if I can be of any assistance. Mark.

Hi Mrp, I am not with my car right now to measure but here is an image from my build. Hopefully that will help.

A local valeter uses ACF 50 aerosol. He told me he puts the can in a large plastic jug which he fills with hot water from the kettle. By the time the water has cooled down to finger warm the ACF 50 is ready to spray. He does both cars and motorbikes using this approach rather than the trigger spray.

Hi Arty, reading your previous posts, it looks like you have an ex race car which has been converted to road use. It may be that my post above may not be of use as I don't know if racers are built differently.

On my 2012 Sigma the inertia switch is on the far right of the bulkhead not the left side as in the picture above. But it looks exactly the same so easy to find. See below. The reason is if you have a car with the cold air intake, the air box is on the left and the battery is in front of the heater.

My S2 had a sort of shelf behind the passenger seat where I think the roof is supposed to go. It looked a bit of a tight squeeze so I mostly put mine in the boot or just rolled it up and put it on the passenger side floor. Mine had the touring pack which I think included a roof lining layer so that may be why it was a tight squeeze.

I had an S2 Elise. Once you have learned the technique it's pretty straight forward. Top tip is always to slide the seat all the way back to give you max legroom both getting in and getting out. The roof is really easy to pop on and off so if you need to get a passenger in you can always un clip the bar on that side and roll the roof back while the passenger gets in and then pop it back in, takes seconds. Having said that, having built the muscle memory to get in and out the driver seat, I always struggled to get out the passenger side!

Thanks JK. That was me being lazy but I thought even upside down it made the point!

I think that's the theory but mine was so firmly attached I had to dremmel a cut down through the plastic and kind of peel it off. discussed in a thread called CARBON FIBER HAND BRAKE LEVER ANYONE?

MINI Countryman Winter Wheels And Tyres. Set of 4. Were used on a 2011 MINI Countryman during winter months. Complete with MINI wheel centres. Tyres are Bridgestone Blizzak LM 25 195 60 R16. Further information on the wheels can be seen in one of the photos. Give the size probably best if collected. High Wycombe area. £100 for the set.