pugwash

Took mine to the local Ford garage who wound them back for me.

Just tested my new portable espresso machine. If I get stopped at least I can offer them a decent coffee.

When I built mine Caterham did a starter pack containing all the oils and fluids that were needed to get it going. Needs to be ordered separately. Not sure why they don't include it with the kit as it was extra cost.

Around 11.30 today, two cars one black, one blue both with full weather gear up heading north.

Mine does that hunt when cold every now and then but generally ticks over at around 1000 so I have not bothered to do anything about it. Same spec car. Perhaps mine is slowly developing what you have. Would be interested to hear how you fix it. This may not help but when I finished building it, the car did pretty much exactly what you describe and to fix it CC changed the throttle body on the post build check.

Hi Delbert, Are they still for sale?

Mine does the same. You will probably find it's not oil but an oil water mix. I did learn not to have the breather pipes all the way to the bottom of the catch tank as it then blows a fine oily spray out the top to lubricate anything it finds close by! The more miles I have done, the less it seems to do it, but that may just be me getting used to emptying it every now and then. Mark.

Dave, You are 260 miles round trip so I think I will gracefully bow out on this one. Kind regards Mark

Dave, I'm interested in your bonnet nose cone rack if it works for an SV and depends where you are for collection purposes. Regards Mark

To clarify, I have a twin cable with plug and a single cable with a plug, both visually very obvious in the top rhs corner of the boot.

I have similar in my 2012 supersport. I believe it is for a 12v socket that you see in some cars fitted in the rear bulkhead between the seats. Iirc one is a light feed and the others a 12v and an earth. I think the purple ends up on the fuse box under the dash, but as all cars are different in some it's connected and in others not connected. If you can find the under the dash end it should do what you need to power the intercom. On my car the sub loom for the high level rear brake light was already in place, but much lower down under the boot floor.

My DRE instructions are up in the roof but does the 4 refer to the brightness level? When I installed mine I did have a few questions so I emailed the company direct and they were very helpful.

If you can pick up a good second hand repackable duratec silencer it fits in the same physical space as the sigma one. The pipe is a larger diameter that the sigma one so you do need to cut and sleeve down to fit the sigma cat pipe or bipass depending on what you have. That's what I did. Might be cheaper than buying a new repackable sigma one.

I did not have any labels over and above what is actually on the switches for the IVA.

Adrian, Link gets me to eBay but I can't see any items. May have interest in tyres depending on what they are! Mark

My carcoon power supply is also designed to trickle charge the the battery. Part of this design is that if there is a power cut it runs the fans off the battery for a while to keep the bubble inflated but then if the power is not reconnected it shuts off when the battery voltage hits a certain level. It is quite old now so maybe the design has changed. I would not have thought that disconnecting the battery is a problem as long as you put it on a trickle charge every now and then. Personally I have all my vehicles and the boat batteries on CTEK trickle chargers when not being used. Mark

Thanks all, Plenty of options on the table, and plenty of time until I swap to make my mind up. I have made up a couple of fly leads to extend the length. Stephen, thanks for the offer, gratefully accepted. Not sure yet if I will be at Penn this week, but expect I will see you there at some point. Kind regards Mark

Being keen not to hijack, I committed the cardinal sin of not searching for previous on this topic. It has been pointed out to me that similar was raised previously with some suggestions on how to address. So I do have some options on the table now. Thanks

Not wishing to hijack the aero vs windscreen thread, around Easter time I will probably go back to Aero for my second summer. Last year I just chopped the spade connectors off the end of the wire under the dash and pulled the wire through the hole. At the end of the season I refitted the screen and crimped a new spade back on. Clearly there are a limited number of times this can be done! The scuttle hole is quite small and looks like will only take an uninsulated bullet connector with a soldered connection. What have POBC done to address this? Make the scuttle hole bigger? Use a different type of connector? All suggestions welcome. Mark

Clearly JV can type faster than me! 😬

When I build mine (sigma but all the same principle I think) the instructions were to bend the top part of the pedal bar towards the driver to take up the slack in the cable and do the refined bit of tuning on the cable using the adjuster. I was surprised how much it needed to be bent, and it did need a fair degree of force to gently bend it. My cable looks like yours and can twist itself through 90 degrees to make itself come loose but never comes out like your photo as there simply is not that much slack in the system. The trick is to get the balance between the bend and the stopping bolt to take the slack out of the cable and at the same time to make sure that on full pedal depression, the throttle body is fully open but the cable is not itself being stretched or the nipple can be pulled off the end. Mark

I ran a long mouse wire down the bracket first. Then I removed the plastic that looks like shrink wrap but isn't and cut it so I had a short length at the light end and later used the other piece under the bonnet. For each I just folded and poked it into the grommet when I had finished the threading. Hence it looks continuous but isn't (a CC tip). To thread I taped each individual wire "plug finger" to my mouse wire one at a time with gaffer (paper) tape using only enough to give a smooth profile. I then pulled them through one at a time. Once I figured this out for the first light, the other was pretty straight forward. Other techniques are available. 😬

You will be fine to disconnect the battery.

Phil, is there a plate on the front of the trailer with useful information like that? There is on my TT. Regards Mark

Alan, Carsten has just emailed me to say he has sent you two emails recently. Spam problem? If you want to BM me I can email you both at the same time and see if that helps. Regards Mark