Jonathan T

I’m selling my Tamiya kit. It’s unbuilt and boxed. Before I put it on eBay I thought I’d offer it here. £300 andnits yours. I’ll be at the Handling Day on the 11th. Cheers.

I’ve got one, if you’re still in need - I’m near J11 M25 / M40 J3

I’ve got 8 unused ones on my bench if anyone else is interested. No reasonable offer refused - post or collect close to M25 J11. Jonathan

PM'd - Thanks!

Thanks.

Anyone know what the torque settings are for the bracket to the block and the alternator to the block and to the bracket? Cheers

And I still need to fix it....

In stock in the UK for £146 (inc. delivery) here.

I slid underneath the car with the diff on the floor to my right, then dragged it onto me and then 'benched pressed' it (maybe struggled would be a better description), into place. We had some 8mm studding ready to slide into to top bolt hole - once on end was in (and hence some of the weight supported)I could adjust my grip and get the other side of the top bolt hole aligned so that the studding could slide completely through. I did try using a jack, but wasn't happy to proceed as there's not much space / control. You'll need someone who can steady it and slide the rod in. Total time using that method - about 10 mins. Once it's got some support the two other bolts are easy. The studding was wrapped in insulating tape to ease its passage. Good luck.

The only thing I've been caught out on is the 22mm ball joint nut that secures the upright and wing stay. Mine is a 1/2 socket but the ratchet wont fit in the gap and there's limited options, a 3/8 22mm fits fine though. Most (all?) other jobs have been handled by the 200 piece Halfords kit I've got and their torque wrenches.

I've decided to crimp on new pins as the easiest way of getting a neat result. I've used 10mm heat shrink (CC do supply a length of heat shrink on the wires), and bound the four headlight wires together and then added the indicator wire - applied heat, cut down a grommet (not too happy about having to cut it) and threaded the wires through the grommet and then down the head light mount. That happened in a matter of minutes. Getting the grommet to locate took some time, but keep it warm and gently poke at it with a blunt end and it does locate. I tried different rotations of the grommet, and eventually it located itself. The wires then passed through another grommet in the upper wishbone mount (again easily) and the tab on the bottom of the headlight mount was located - holes were aligned and the bolt slid in.

No - I haven't had any issues with those - others at the front are tight but doable. I've got some 200mm ball ended hex sockets so my working angles are good. There's a picture here. Good luck!

Ahhgghh!!

Sounds like you installed it upside down.... (joking..)