Jonathan T

I’m selling my Tamiya kit. It’s unbuilt and boxed. Before I put it on eBay I thought I’d offer it here. £300 andnits yours. I’ll be at the Handling Day on the 11th. Cheers.

I’ve got one, if you’re still in need - I’m near J11 M25 / M40 J3

I’ve got 8 unused ones on my bench if anyone else is interested. No reasonable offer refused - post or collect close to M25 J11. Jonathan

PM'd - Thanks!

Thanks.

Anyone know what the torque settings are for the bracket to the block and the alternator to the block and to the bracket? Cheers

And I still need to fix it....

In stock in the UK for £146 (inc. delivery) here.

I slid underneath the car with the diff on the floor to my right, then dragged it onto me and then 'benched pressed' it (maybe struggled would be a better description), into place. We had some 8mm studding ready to slide into to top bolt hole - once on end was in (and hence some of the weight supported)I could adjust my grip and get the other side of the top bolt hole aligned so that the studding could slide completely through. I did try using a jack, but wasn't happy to proceed as there's not much space / control. You'll need someone who can steady it and slide the rod in. Total time using that method - about 10 mins. Once it's got some support the two other bolts are easy. The studding was wrapped in insulating tape to ease its passage. Good luck.

The only thing I've been caught out on is the 22mm ball joint nut that secures the upright and wing stay. Mine is a 1/2 socket but the ratchet wont fit in the gap and there's limited options, a 3/8 22mm fits fine though. Most (all?) other jobs have been handled by the 200 piece Halfords kit I've got and their torque wrenches.

I've decided to crimp on new pins as the easiest way of getting a neat result. I've used 10mm heat shrink (CC do supply a length of heat shrink on the wires), and bound the four headlight wires together and then added the indicator wire - applied heat, cut down a grommet (not too happy about having to cut it) and threaded the wires through the grommet and then down the head light mount. That happened in a matter of minutes. Getting the grommet to locate took some time, but keep it warm and gently poke at it with a blunt end and it does locate. I tried different rotations of the grommet, and eventually it located itself. The wires then passed through another grommet in the upper wishbone mount (again easily) and the tab on the bottom of the headlight mount was located - holes were aligned and the bolt slid in.

No - I haven't had any issues with those - others at the front are tight but doable. I've got some 200mm ball ended hex sockets so my working angles are good. There's a picture here. Good luck!

Ahhgghh!!

Sounds like you installed it upside down.... (joking..)

Before my kit arrived and I was clearing space in the garage I did practice for the diff by dropping a car battery on my foot once a week for a month, so that part might not be so bad.

Can the repeaters be that much away from the side of the vehicle?

The ones I'm looking up are frequently ordered with a set of pry bars, a lump hammer and a wasted weekend - They look ideal!

I also need to get some new expleatives as I've used up a whole boxful so far.

Well, the original question was: Wingstays - can't get mine to fit - Is it me? And the answer is............. Yes! Just give them a firm shove, ingore the protest from their coating - they do go on. Oh well!

Not much time available today, but the problem with the wing stays is resolved - a firm shove and they're on - lost a bit of coating, but they're now on. In the few minutes that I've had today I've placed the washer nozzle and fed the washer pipe through a new hole in the dashboard to engine bay grommet. Not sure which one out of the nozzle hole and the stripes is not centered - but I'm not too bothered about that - by far the biggest problem will be if someone hits the washer button when the areoscreen is fitted. I still need to heat the pipe up and attach it, but that can wait until later in the week.

Following the instructions here has been painless so far. Looking nice and tidy. The big decision is do I change to clear indicators before I fit the repeaters on the cycle wings.

It's 91mm from the top of the hub thread to the machined surface and 95mm from the bracket to the centre of the hole on the wing stay. I'll update the blog shortly. Thanks.

I started to measure it, but got distracted - I had one measurement that I think was 91mm from the outside edge of the hub screw to the machined face.. I'm emailing Caterham and will report back. Thanks!

That would distort the angle of the stays - there's quite a lot of movement required. Enlarging the hole would be the better option. If this isn't a common problem then I'm assuming that something is wrong somewhere. Thanks