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Klunk

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Everything posted by Klunk

  1. Sorry, didn't explain myself very well in the last post. Blank off part of the radiator with card/tape directly on to it rather than on the grill.
  2. Time for some trials me thinks. If you want to keep the bypass in the current position, start by blanking off half the rad (at the rad) and go from there. Edited by - Klunk on 10 Mar 2014 13:01:39
  3. For a race car that makes sense: max cooling and a failsafe bypass if the thermostat fails. It really comes down to what you plan on using the car for. As you've got an EWP does it have the controller to slow the flow down therefore reducing cooling. Might be ideal if you can adjust it from the dash
  4. As I understand your plumbing, the main pipe and bypass both feed into the rad at the top (engine feed side) and then bottom rad return goes back to the engine? If so, as you say, you always have some coolant flowing through the rad. First thing I would do is feed the bypass to the bottom return hose from the rad thereby bypassing the rad. The only problem then is how violent the cooling is when it cuts in. I have seen a blackbird running on a standard rad and it was overcooling like your GSXR. It ended up having all but the top 4" of the rad covered up to maintain temperature. Whilst fine for the road, this still gave problems when thrashing on track as it then wasn't enough. The mechanics advice was to run with the original bike rad (fitted to standard blackbird cars) or use a smaller car rad. The other option, would be the EWP you mentioned. Regards, Giles Edited by - Klunk on 10 Mar 2014 10:49:18
  5. Which BEC have you got and what rad is fitted? Regards, Giles
  6. Hi , They're incorporated into the tacho itself. I had a similar issue and fitted 3mm LEDs vertically between the gauges towards the bottom. Regards, Giles Edited by - Klunk on 8 Mar 2014 13:09:51
  7. Random thoughts.... 1) Cut the section out, rotate 180deg and weld back in. 2) See of anyone's got an early bonnet (no heater louvres) then get the louvres stamped in. 3) Get a section made up with louvres and then cut out originals and weld/rivet panel into place. 4) Abandon the louvre thing and feed the airbox from the front Regards, Giles Edited by - Klunk on 6 Mar 2014 16:08:22
  8. Better get mine off too! Nick, a few guys camped overnight last year. I'm certainly planning on doing so if it's still possible Regards, Giles
  9. Quoting bluenose: My Blackbird was fitted with standard caterham brakes - Ford M16 calipers. James Whiting did not build any Blackbirds just the Fireblades. Strange, I thought standard Caterham brakes were Triumph derived ... although the Blackbirds built by Mr Newman do seem to be an eclectic mix! 😬 Anyway, back on topic, my point was merely to highlight how good I felt the Alcon brakes were for anybody interested. There are, as indicated, a number of good options Edited by - Klunk on 4 Mar 2014 20:15:07
  10. I believe the Fireblade ones are 2-piston (shown in Mankee's link) 4-pot Alcons were standard fit on the Blackbirds I believe - at least they are on mine and another member's car. Even with a non-vented disc, they have fantastic stopping power with the uprated master cylinder. I know a Blackbird is significantly lighter than a K etc, but I think they would perform more than adequately in most circumstances and offer a significant reduction in unsprung weight over the Caterham big brake set up. Regards, Giles
  11. Put your glasses on Stu! 😬 Giles
  12. My 98 passat 1.9tdi has 110bhp, a solid flywheel set up, and has completed 258,000 miles on the same flywheel/clutch. My 06 Touran 1.9tdi has 105bhp, a DMF set up and has already been through one at 60,000miles (thank God for the warranty!) and the second one doesn't feel great at 115,000miles. Guess what's going on next time! As far as I'm aware, the bottom end is exactly the same so can't see why there would be a problem as the internals are seriously strong. The solid flywheel conversion is routine for taxi drivers with this engine. Regards, Giles Edited by - Klunk on 4 Mar 2014 17:46:15
  13. Quoting millie@corse: ...... Paid £325 including carriage for the open diff last year. Steve reckoned the price was about right. Blimey! Found mine in a local scrapyard 6 years ago. Cost me a whopping £35 inc vat! Mind you, it took me another 5 years to get hold of the BEC though 😬. Good luck with the search, Giles
  14. Had a look for the rack but I must have got rid of it - sorry. Hopefully someone will be along shortly. Regards, Giles
  15. Might still have a mini rack in the garage so can check later if nobody else comes up trumps first
  16. Elie, Do double check the length of the rack before you buy. I'm sure it's a shortened one, and by that I mean the actual rack not the arms. Regards, Giles
  17. I was told mine was a shortened left hand drive mini rack turned upside down....... I just fitted a later Caterham rack it was easier Edited by - Klunk on 17 Dec 2013 21:16:26
  18. Found it - it was a Febi 02562 (OEM BMW 26 11 1 225 624) Somewhere I read that the poly ones are stonger but don't allow for much (1o) misalignment in the coupling, although you would have to check this with the supplier. From my previous thread, it would appear that all the Blackbirds suffer 3-4o of misalignment. The Febi one allows for up to 3o. I haven't done a huge amount of miles this year but, last time I looked, the coupling was not showing any signs of cracking. Regards, Giles
  19. Replaced mine with a Febi one as advised they are the best quality. Stock part on 2.0 Vauxhall Omega and most BMWs. Have got the code somewhere - pretty sure I've mentioned it on here before. Regards, Giles
  20. Calculated purely from the numbers, I get 1810mm. Bearing in mind it's not round on the car and should be a bit less, it's close enough. Test against a Satnav for accuracy and fine tune whilst driving. Regards, Giles Edited by - Klunk on 27 Nov 2013 11:41:57
  21. Klunk

    Category B

    Found this on Locostbuilders re. Cat B Les Elliott, Chairman of MIAFTR and a representative of the ABI Salvage Code of Practice adds: “The ABI Salvage Code specifically states that where an Insurer takes control of total loss salvage, such as a Category B, it is broken for spares and the body shell crushed. However, where a person retains the salvage it can be returned to the road, but is subject to a VIC if the V5 is surrendered to DVLA.” If the code is an agreement between the Insurers, you can understand why they won't insure a car they say should have had its chassis crushed. However, as Simon says, it's not illegal as long as it's been subject to a VIC. So the problem is obviously the link between VOSA and the Insurance companies' database(s). Ah bureaucracy - don't you just love it! 😬
  22. Klunk

    Category B

    Category B is parts only salvage. From this I would assume the vehicle identification cannot be reused. You can use the parts to rebuild your car but you would need to build it and IVA it as per a new car and it would be a Q plate on being registered. I think....
  23. I believe the rear stays meet the rear panel lower down on the live axle cars, although things may have changed since i owned one Regards, Giles
  24. De-dion or live axle? Regards, Giles
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