Klunk

I must learn to check for updates before I post the reply 😬 😬 Oh well, I hope the info's useful if you have the problem in the future and it's not a loose connection Giles

Have recently had the problem on my crossflow. The two big brown wires should be connected together to the B+ terminal and the smaller wire (brown/yellow) to the D+. The two big wires are the main loom feeds and end up back at the battery. The smaller wire feeds back to one side of the charge indicator light, as Nick/Dave said. With the engine off, but ignition on, 12v is supplied to one side of the light. The other side is the small wire from the alternator which, when the engine is off, is at 0v. This means the potential difference (my physics teacher used to kill me for using the word voltage 😳 😬) across the light is 12v-0v=12v and the light in lit. With the engine running the small wire from the alternator wire should have 12v on it which "puts out" the ignition light as there is no longer a potential diference across it to light the lamp i.e. 12v-12v=0v. Check you have 12v on this terminal when its running. Also check you have a good earth on the alternator. Regards, Giles

Hi Ray, YHM Giles

Hi - YHM Giles

She lives!!! 😬 😬 Despite looking at everything again I discovered it would fire on Easy Start so I knew everything was correct electrically. Drained the tank, put in Vpower + additives, enlisted the use of a heavy right foot and hey presto! - music to the ears and what a cracking noise - I'd forgotten just how great it sounds *smokin*. Many thanks to all for your suggestions *thumbup*. Regards, Giles

Hi all , Haven't had chance to carry out all the suggestions yet but here's what I do know so far. Elie - Cap and rotor are the same and pickup position is fine. The fuel has been in the car and in the garage for the last year but I will put in a fresh batch to be sure. Roger - Thanks for the plug spec. Throttle pumps are working in all 4 barrels and it looks like there is plenty going in. Will try the oil thing next. Jon - I did wonder about retarding the spark so will add it to the "To Try" list. I have read many of the Megajolt threads and it will probably be the future of the ignition on this engine but being a stubborn 🙆🏻 I refuse to be beaten just yet . Simon - Haven't had the dizzy out since it last ran - Mind you I did see my 5 year old daughter exiting the garage with a spanner the other day... 😳 😬 Thanks for all the suggestions *thumbup* - keep 'em coming. Hopefully I will get a chance to get into the garage tomorrow evening so will keep you all posted. Giles

Hi Graham/Gordon , Graham, I think you've just confirmed one of my theories. When doing the "HT lead to earth" spark test the 1/2" spark was blue and generated by the Megaspark2 & ballast. When I connected the DLB105 (with/without ballast)the spark was only 1/4" and yellow. From your comments am I correct to assume that the DLB is probably on its way out and should be junked? Petrol in the bores trick sounds interesting I will give that a whirl - I wonder if a can of "Easy Start" would do the same trick? The battery booster is dead so I will have to jump from another car. What plugs/coil do you run Graham? (ballast/no ballast etc). Gordon, I hadn't thought about the quality of the fuel but given this is supposed to run on super + valve protector maybe that would be a good place to start - hope I've got enough fuel cans empty Many thanks *thumbup* Regards, Giles

Hi Peter, In short: Fuel - yes (i've been caught out by that before 😬) Fuel to carbs - yes, pressure is 2.5 PSI and can hear carbs filling and pump slow down when carb valve shuts off. I have tried priming the carbs and then turning the pump off so as not to force fuel into the carbs if the needle valve is worn. Plugs - I have seen drier plugs in my time but I cleaned them up and still no joy. Good spark - yes about 1/2 inch spark HT lead to cylinder head when cranking. Firing order is 1243 which I believe is correct and the rotor appears to be in the right place for the right cylinder at the right time. Regards, Giles

Hi, I'm not sure how much of a difference the steel bit makes but here goes! I have a 1700 steel crossflow on 48s with lumenition optronic on an aldon dizzy and try as I might I can't get the darn thing to fire *mad* ☹️ Crank - , Spark - , Fuel - , Fire - 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 Firstly, I checked the compression and it is 210 which I understand is okay. I have checked and rechecked the optronic set up using lumenition's own tests everthing appears to be okay and I'm getting a good spark at the plugs I have tried unballasted (DLB 105) and ballasted (megaspark2) coil set ups(advice on which is best would be appreciated - with wiring diagrams would be even better) Changed the leads, the dizzy cap, the rotor arm. I haven't changed the plugs yet as I don't which would be best on this engine but the ones in are Champion N6YC (suggestions please). Plug gap is 25 thou. The annoying thing is it worked when I put it away in the garage 12 months ago and, although I have replaced parts of the loom, I made sure everything was as it was before. Long term I will probably go down the ECU route but for now I need to stay with this system. Sorry for the numpty questions but I'm sure it's something dead simple so all help/links greatly appreciated. Giles Edited by - klunk on 18 Mar 2008 12:06:46

Hi Nick, 2nd dibs on the handbrake & cables if Keith changes his mind - Thanks. Giles.

Hi Rob, YHM Giles

Rob, Can I have provisional first dibs pending the following questions. Is it the clubman or pro gear set? What are the gear ratios? Many thanks, Giles

Clive YHM Giles