Klunk

Money transfer done. (Says it could take up to 3 days even though we're with the same bank 😬) Regards, Giles

YHM Regards, Giles

Hi Mark , Can I take the Re-bag and the hood bag please. Baltmail me with how you want paying etc. Regards, Giles Edited by - Klunk on 15 Apr 2010 15:35:40

Hi Tom, If you can post the sizes of your jets, chokes, emulsions etc together with any engine mods, that might help narrow the problem down. The more information the better. At what revs did the misfire/stutter occur? If it was around 2500 rpm it sounds to me like they have just put bigger idle jets in to help the progression phase. This will increase your fuel consumption quite a lot. Regards, Giles

Have you got fuel getting to the pump? If yes then it may have had it. Do you have a filter anywhere and is that blocked? These pumps are not known for their long life but they are cheap to replace. Personally I would use it's big bother, the interrupter style pump from Facet (cylindrical shape). These are about twice the price but you can strip and clean them. Never had one go wrong on my cars in 10 years - yet 😬 Giles Edited by - Klunk on 13 Feb 2010 15:29:54

Ian Prices from Burton inc. vat. Mains = 3.50 each Airs = 1.90 each Idles = 2.50 each Emuls = 9.95 each So 71.40 for the lot. My 2.1 zetec with 270cams is running absolutely perfectly on 40s with 34mm chokes. It's 45s that cause the problem. Hope this helps. Regards, Giles Edited by - Klunk on 13 Feb 2010 15:17:45

Derek, I imagine it will be one of those points the professionals disagree on but I do know from experience that if an electricity board transformer leaks its oil it it stops working pretty quickly 😳 😬. At the end of the day a coil is only smaller version - can't do any harm to try it Regards, Giles

Dee Pee , As far as I'm aware it won't cause a fire but the coil will breakdown and misfire - as I said this was a slightly OT piece of advice. This advice came unprompted from an reputable Brisca & Autograss engine builder who was fixing an unrelated problem on the Cat. Regards, Giles

Willie , This is quite interesting and may answer some of your questions. A properly designed plenum using the Helmholtz Resonance Theory will yield good power at the top end if you can design the plenum and intake lengths such that the resonance occurs where the engine breathing starts to struggle. Effectively the resonance forces air into the engine. If you look at Le Mans & BTCC cars, they are having to use this technology as they have to run with air restrictors (which I seem to remember these are very small when you take the size of the engine into consideration). In PPC magazine, Dave Walker regularly gets people coming in with wild cams (285+) and plenums and the outcome every time is that this is not a good combination due to the distance the butterfly is from the head. This results in rough idle and light throttle jerk as you have already stated. (Out of interest the car he was having problems with was an exige with a k series engine.) I'm sure someone with more knowledge will be along shortly. Hope this helps in the meantime. Regards, Giles Edited by - Klunk on 11 Dec 2009 09:50:37 Edited by - Klunk on 11 Dec 2009 10:55:45

Not sure how your coil is mounted but it shouldn't be vertical with terminals at the top. As they are never 100% full with oil this means that the parts of the terminals inside the coil itself are not covered in oil and overheat/burnout. Given the number of people who post with coil issues is may be a wise precaution to mount it upside down (or at least with the terminals below the horizontal)to avoid future issues. A little bit OT but hopefully a useful tip Regards, Giles

Hi Col Can I have first dibs on the flywheel & clutch parts pending photos. Thanks, Giles

I think the general consensus is that BP7ES plugs are the best all rounder unless you are track only when the 8s come into there own. I can personally vouch for the fact that 8s foul up quickly in normal road traffic as they don't get hot enough. Regards, Giles

Hi, YHM, Giles

First dibs please Giles

Hi Dave , I'll take the steel tank. Regards, Giles

Ahh..Mr Chan - didn't realise you were going to Curborough. Sneaking in more practice? Looks like Curborough is the best solution all round - Nick A, I will give the money to Nick C to forward on - this is like something out of a Dr Seuss book Matt, many thanks for the offer. Hope the rain stays away tomorrow - Enjoy all . Giles

Nick, YHM. Hi Matt , thanks for the offer - I may well take you up on that. Whereabouts near Nantwich does the guy travel from? Regards, Giles

Hi , Can I have first dibs please, Giles

Darren, YHM ❗ Giles

Hi Darren , Just need to speak to my brother to see if he can pop over from Dorking and pay for/collect the rack. Annoyingly, I'm in London this weekend to do the sights with the kids but I think I'll be shot if I take one step outside central London 😬 Will get back to you shortly. Regards, Giles

Hi Nick, Sorry for not getting back sooner - I've been in the garage trying to get my steering rack sorted. Sounds like its a lot better than it was - you've obviously been consulting the Weber manual regarding setting the idle mixture screws . You mention about balancing the carb itself. In theory, you shouldn't have to balance them as the butterflys are operated by the same throttle spindle. On an old carb a different reading meant a bent spindle which would have to be changed. However , if you have this problem check if you have Air By-Pass screws on the carb (number 26 on the weber diagram). They normally have a white plastic cap on them. When you set up the carb, make sure these are screwed fully in - note you have to undo the locknut first. If there is a difference between the flow through both sides of the carb you can alter the relevant bleed screw to let more air pass the butterfly to balance up the flow. Once both are balanced individually, you can then balance the two together as you have already done. Try this and see if it makes a difference before you alter anything else. Out of interest what idle jets and choke size have you got in? I have just noticed your post on the timing. Can you take a picture of your dizzy to see if I can identify it. Please keep the photo small (. Will blatmail you my email. Regards , Giles

Anybody out there still got one of these things? I have a couple of questions to ask. Why is the rack housing shortened when a standard Mini rack would fit? The actual length of rack to the point where the tie rods are attached is exactly the same. The length of the tie rods is virtually the same aswell When compared to a standard RHD Mini Rack the pinion is on the wrong side of the rack i.e above when the modified Caterham one is below. Is the modified one a LHD that has been flipped over. to put the pinion underneath. I know I should put a new rack on, but I'm afraid funds don't allow at the moment - unless someone has a spare one going cheap? 😬 Regards, Giles Edited by - klunk on 5 Mar 2009 18:44:34

Hi Geoff, I'm sure somebody will come along with a more technical answer. I believe the castor is the relationship between the position of the top ball joint and the bottom ball joint that attach to the upright. I think this is set by the wishbone position. Normally the top ball joint is behind the bottom one (as you look at the wheel from the side) and is most relevant underbraking. The camber is the angle of the wheel top to bottom as you look at the tyre from the front and is adjusted by winding the top balljoint in and out. What you need is just the tracking sorting (assuming you haven't adjusted the balljoint at the top of the upright) which is the relationship of the two wheels together and is normally described as toe-in or toe-out. Regards, Giles

Roger, YHM ❗ Giles

Sounds fine Roger. Can you Blatmail me your address and I'll get a cheque in the post. Regards, Giles