Klunk

Sorry Terry, was just trying to gauge it against my old engine

Found my thread here Giles

Hi Terry, How much old fuel did you have in the tank before you added the new fuel? If you've added the new fuel to a non empty tank, the 1/2 pint will not be enough to guarantee fresh fuel. To prove this, take the tops off the carbs, remove fuel, pour new fuel into chambers and replace tops. If it wont then fire this removes the fuel from the equation. I had exactly the same issue with my crossflow and it only started once I'd drained the tank and put in fresh fuel. I didn't believe it would be the problem but it was. Also, what plugs are you running? What spec is the engine? Regards, Giles

Regarding the water pump, do you have the extra pulley to ensure the pump runs in the correct direction? If you got the package from Raceline I imagine you will.

Hi Nigel, Change the thermostat back to standard (85-87c?) - you will end up damaging the engine as the oil won't be up to temperature. Zetecs run quite warm at around 90c. With this in mind your fan is not going off as your off is at 87c. Change the on to 97c and the off to 92c as a starting point. A zetec is in the 'red' at about 110-120c! Regards, Giles

Useful info and better explanation of my point in the second paragraph here . Might be worth throwing it back on again and trying the bulb before you ditch it?

Sorry, I wasn't questioning your method of testing. Rather, mine. I was wondering, if 'L' doesn't 'see' ~12v from the warning lamp on start up, does it decide not to switch from 0v to 12v? You would think the switched +ve would be this trigger but.... The use of a filament lamp was to keep the ~12v at 'L' whilst eliminating the LED playing any part in the problem. Mine came off a Daihatsu Charade and had a multigroove pulley but pins looked the same. Your number cross references with a Daihatsu Cuore so probably the same internally. Mine worked as per your set up with an LED light, but I used an unfused switched live (white wire). I no longer have the car hence my haziness

Humour me with this one... In case I'm wrong about checking the voltage reading at the 'L' pin, Remove the warning lamp wire from the alternator again and rig up a separate filament bulb between the battery +ve and 'L'. See if that goes out when running. Just trying to eliminate the LED aspect. As you say there are loads of incidences of this on the internet which leads me to think it's a foible rather than fault. Do you have the exact model number of your alternator?

Strange . Out of interest, where did you take the switched live from? Have you checked that is working as expected?

Bear in mind it is possible for the main alternator post feed to be ok but the lamp (L) feed not to be

Quick recap on the theory: When the ignition is on, but engine off, 12v is supplied to the dash warning light from the loom (green wire). 0v is supplied from the alternator (brown/yellow wire) so there is a potential difference of 12v-0v = 12v and the LED lights. With the engine running 12v is supplied from the alternator. As a result the potential difference is 12v-12v = 0v and the LED goes out. With that in mind: To check the warning light wiring. Remove the brown/yellow warning light wire from the alternator. With the ignition on, first 'earth' the wire. The warning LED should light. With the ignition still on, apply 12v to the wire (touch onto the main alternator post). The warning LED should go out. If it doesn't the issue is in the warning lamp wiring. If all is okay, leave the brown/yellow wire disconnected from the alternator and do the following. With the ignition on, but engine not running, you should get a voltmeter reading of 0v on the alternator's 'L' pin. Next start the engine, rev it, then check again. It should now be 12v. If this isn't the case it would suggest there's an issue with the lamp feed on the alternator.

I would avoid splicing into the loom if possible. As Ian says, you should find some spare connections underneath driver's side dash. Re. wiring: For an ign switched +ve (no fuse) use a spare White wire connector or Green +ve (fused). There are a few shades of green so be careful. I personally always use White. Tacho signal is White with a black tracer on it as per instructions. Again, there should be a spare connector specifically for a shift light on the same wire to the back of the tacho gauge. Earth is any black wire, as stated. Again there will probably be a spare connector somewhere. Or connect to chassis. Regards, Giles

I've fitted several normal/lowered floors using one of these and have had no problems with steel rivets. I certainly wouldn't recommend doing it by hand! Giles

Had a similar problem with my Blackbird. I added a return spring to the throttle pedal as there was no way of attaching it to the throttle bodies. I just used a standard weber DCOE style throttle spring with one end attached to the pedal box and the other to the pedal. Giles

Have a look here and here. The ST8100 is listed with its features. Are there any clues if you cycle through the screens? It is a strange one . Are there any infra red panels/emitters on the sensor?

What's the exact model of your dash (8100 is the generic series)? The model number is written on a label on the back of the dash unit. This should enable you to look up the exact features for the model. My feeling is that it's a lap timing beacon but I'm only guessing

Despite what it says on the case, I dont think this is the correct/genuine unit - note no pins on the female socket side. I bought one similar to this at Stoneleigh

Yes please Paul. Please could you ping me your number to sort out the details. Regards, Giles

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I realise Mucus72 is now sorted, but just wanted to add a quick note re City Powdercoaters. They were certainly in operation a few months ago when I had a couple of sets done. The quality of finish depends on the state of the rim taken in. They don't repair the alloy (at least not for £20; there maybe other options) and corrosion may not all be removed. I was pleased with the outcome as I was looking for a tidy up on a set of cheap rims, but appreciate they are not up to a 'concours' standard. You pays your money.........

You can use soda blasting - here. Seems to be effective Regards, Giles

I use an eBay seller called "abouttownbolts" for all rivets and rivnuts. NTDWM but always been pleased with their price/service *thumbup* Giles

That's definitely the easiest way, although I got mine out by undoing the outer upper column at the scuttle. However, mine has been cut so doesn't connect at the dash end. I'd take the seat option as it's the easiest in the long run. Enjoy, Giles

Yep, happened to me a few weeks ago. Is it a quick release or standard upper column? Assuming you have a tillet seat stopping you getting it out through the dash, easiest way would be to remove the seat so it could be then be removed this way. If it's a quick release it'll slide straight out. If it's a standard upper column, use a ratchet strap round the steering wheel centre and the roll bar to pull it and the dash column bush out. Regards, Giles Edited by - Klunk on 5 Aug 2014 12:15:28 Edited by - Klunk on 5 Aug 2014 12:20:30

Front number plate? Enjoy!