Klunk

Is the noise high up or low down? Did it suddenly start? If high up there's a good chance it is the VVC mechanism (or part of), according to various Rover forums. Is the noise coming from around the VVC solenoid area? Regards, Giles Edited by - Klunk on 8 Aug 2013 10:35:45

Phil's will not be ideal for your engine. If you ring Weber's technical department they will give you the recommended settings for a standard engine.

They were Silvertops, but the relationship between similarly tuned 1.8 and 2.0 Blacktops will be the same . I dont fancy taking the engine out for the 4th time so its staying unless i blow it up I like your style 😬

Any particular reason you want to stay with the 1.8? My tuned 1.8 was great but a bit tiring to drive . My slightly less tuned 2.0 engine on 40s was effortless .

Craig, Is the engine standard? As Roger says, if you have not modified the engine so that it needs to breath more at the top end, then you may as well stick with what you have got unless you are planning headwork/cams. What size chokes have you got in the 40's? Standard is 34mm. Standard 45's have 36mm chokes. Without the breathing mods, all that will happen is the air speed will drop, you will get fuel drop out, and the torque will be lower than on 40's through the rev range with possibly a small gain in top end power. (You can of course put 34mm chokes in 45's, but that would make the change a bit pointless ). As Roger says, it's a bit of a black art. Fortunately I have a cracking engine builder near me and the first question he asks is "what do you want to use the car for ?". The answer to this is critical - there is no point in ruining the driveability for the sake of pub banter . You can spend an awful lot of money for no/little benefit and their are plenty of people out there willing to take your cash. Decide what you want and go from there Regards, Giles

Hi , My 1800 had 45's on it and they had 3 progression holes. It was set up on an engine dyno and had no hesitation at all, anywhere. That was with Newman 285 cams as well. That's the good news.... The bad news is I sold the car abroad and can't remember what jets it had in it. The only thing I can remember is it had the standard Weber supplied 36mm chokes and F16 emulsions. Sorry, not much use but at least you know they will work Regards, Giles

You need one of these up your primaries! Regards, Giles

Hi Tom, YHM Regards, Giles

YHM back Regards, Giles Edited by - Klunk on 12 Jul 2013 22:15:56

Can't find my info but sensor testing can be found here. The ECU coolant temp sensor is the brown one (top of the page). If you want to measure the voltages/resistance of the TPS whilst in situ, fold back the rubber plug cover. Regards, Giles

Hi Jon , I think you may have just answered your own question. Have you tried changing the ECU coolant temperature sensor? Somewhere I've got the resistance values at given temperatures - will try and find them and post back. Regards, Giles Edited by - Klunk on 11 Jul 2013 23:28:53

Have just found a picture of the coilpacks - no wonder I couldn't find a picture of the rotor arm 😬 Glad you're sorted . Regards, Giles

Hi Jack , Does the EU2 VVC have a rotor arm and dizzy like an EU2 non VVC? If it does, I had this problem recently with a friend's SLR on RBTBs. Couldn't find the problem so spoke to a mechanic friend and he said the K series are notorious for the rotor arm failing and allowing the spark to track down the camshaft. This appears at about 2000rpm under load. Have to say I was sceptical (the one I removed looked fine) but I changed it and the dizzy cap for good measure. Completely resolved the situation. They're 'cheap as chips' so I'd start with this. Of course, if it doesn't have a rotor arm/dizzy all the above is rubbish! 😬 Regards, Giles Edited by - Klunk on 5 Jul 2013 09:17:18

Fred is this any use here? Not BEC (or exactly the right CBR) but compares a CBR1000 with an R1 in their original habitat. Regards, Giles Edited by - Klunk on 28 Jun 2013 18:32:34

When the suspension is loaded up (ie on its wheels) you should find there is a small gap. Failing that you can mount them upside down. Regards, Giles

The parts can be seen on this page here

Hi Max, Paul's beaten me to it. The positive feed to the gauges and the ignition light are all connected. It's the plain green wire to the back of each of the gauges/ignition light. Regards, Giles Edited by - Klunk on 26 Jun 2013 12:11:21

Hi Nick, I'd like to keep the reverse box if I can as I have steep drive and currently have to reverse the car into an awkward garage. If I move towards the alternative prop design (which I will if I keep chewing cush drives) then I might review the need for it as it's one less thing to go wrong! 😬 Interestingly, all the other bike engined kit car manufacturers (Westfield/MK/MNR) all appear to use the BM style double UJ front prop instead of the cush drive. Regards, Giles

Simon, the car is going to be a mixture of road and track - depends how flush I am! However, I doubt it will get the abuse your car gets in a season, but it will probably do a lot more miles . I know someone who chewed his way through a Nova cush on one track day. He replaced it with the Febi part and apparently all is well so far hence my purchase. Sounds like we have the same part. I think I will see how I get on and modify the mounts in the future. Regarding the solid drive, you can get props that are like Metalastik bushes with the rubber between, bonding the 2 shafts together. Bailey Morris do them here. Regards, Giles Edited by - Klunk on 25 Jun 2013 21:32:31

Thanks Jason. I think a lot of it comes down to the quality of the part used. Some only have a small tolerance for flex, others more. Checking on their website the Febi one is good for 3deg so hopefully I be okay. If I start chewing them up, I'll look into the other option Regards, Giles

Thanks guys. Charlie, at the moment I'm trying to understand if this problem is just mine or is generic hence my staying with standard for the moment. From what Neil says, it sounds generic so I will certainly look to improve it when time allows. I've tried shimming it to no real effect but you've just given me another idea Neil, you're right, it's the rubber cush drive and it's off a 2.0 Vauxhall Omega or pretty much any BMW since the 1990's. On recommendation, I deliberately bought an OEM Febi made one as the quality is much better. The problem is the deflection of the cush drive when bolted up. Nova recommend about 1.5deg misalignment but mine's more like 4deg.. It doesn't sound like much, but when you have the cush drive bolted up with the reverse box end of the prop disconnected, the misalignment is quite alarming and it requires a fair bit of force to align the two again. The one I took off was cracked; not dangerously so, but it's not "right". I will post a photo of the misalignment later. Regards, Giles

I'm in the middle of replacing the rubber coupling between the engine and the first propshaft and have noticed that the alignment between the engine and the propshaft is more than is desirable and putting undue strain on the coupling. I have tried altering the engine position and tightening it all up but it just moves back. I also moved the reverse box as far as I can but to no avail. To be honest, I'm not a fan of the engine mount set up but, as it's the standard set up, I'm keen to know if anybody else has experienced this problem and what, if anything, they have done to resolve it. Photos for reference would great as well, if possible. Many thanks, Giles

Quoting anthonym: Reason, simply want a rocket ship and lots of gears to play with, not bothered by motorways etc, I have the trailer for those. Good enough reason for me . Enjoy! Regards, Giles

Hi Anthony, Good to see the car back to it's former glory. I think you were only half way through when we saw it at the Wybunbury meet last year. As far as the shaft goes, when I compared my 6 speed box to the 2.8 box it looked exactly as shown in the video. The only discernable difference is the extra length on the nose. The position of the splines is exactly the same. Also the fact that you had the spacer between you gearbox and bellhousing denotes that you have the long input shaft. However, having not had the input shafts out, I can't comment on the thickness (and hence strength) of the two shafts, or the teeth on the gear. My guess is they are the same but as the 6 spd takes 250bhp, and the standard 2.8 much less, you need to speak to an expert. Namely, Phil at Road & Race or BGH, whom I believe built the 6 spd in the first place. HTH Out of interest, what are your main reasons for wanting a 6spd? Regards, Giles

Looks like Eugene's your answer; but for reference, a '90s Nissan Micra (the bubble shaped one) is virtually exactly the same and there are quite a few on eBay. Regards, Giles