Klunk

Thanks Mankee, that's the one - I struggle to do the link think on my phone! The cam does look worn on the journals. If you were keeping it as a vvc I would throw it back together and run it till it rattles! My guess is you're going to a solid cam and I'm not sure I'd want to risk knackering a brand new cam. That said, you may not notice for many thousands of miles! That thread does remind me of a mod to a camshaft bearing on my old vauxhall nova. You had to drill a hole half in the end of the camshaft and half in the head to improve lubrication. Given my lack of knowledge when I did that, the car lasted for many years before it died of something completely different. Giles Edited by - Klunk on 29 Dec 2012 12:35:54

Just googled "camshaft journal pitted yotatech". It's not a k series but the same issue. Click on the picture of the journal shown and read the thread (quite along way down). Interesting reply by someone. Giles

Happens to the best of us 😬. Glad it's all fixed. Incidentally, did you use pfte or something else to seal the plugs in? Might be useful for future reference! All the best for the New Year, Giles

Another thought Do you have the original camshafts? If so, what's the finish like on their bearings? I appreciate it's less likely to mark than the head but there should be some indication if debris was present in the oil. Giles

I'll have a go then , I've not had my k series apart (yet!) but based on what I can see that looks more like porosity. I'm basing this on the fact that if it was debris it would have worn a groove right around the bearing. Also if you look at the last picture where the oil feed is, between the two bearing surfaces, you still have the pitting despite this being a non contact area. However, there do seem to be some grooves on the bearing surfaces in that picture, or is that just the lighting? What do the surfaces feel like? Compared to a zetec head I've got in the garage, the surfaces look awful but that's like comparing apples with pears. Any luck with google images? Failing that, hopefully Oily will see this - might be worth dropping him a line. Regards, Giles Edited by - Klunk on 29 Dec 2012 11:35:25

Carsten - glad you're sorted. Intrigued to know what the 'proper' tool was? Was it heavy? 😬 Caterbram jnr - you're right, generally a zetec will be around 90deg which is the standard ford running temp. I have to confess my overheat was because I had wired the fan in the wrong way round due to hurrying to get my car ready for trip to France *redface*. It took me longer to work out what I'd done than it did to fix it! 😬. Your second point about the oil temp is an interesting one. A high oil temp is one of the zetec weaknesses and many people run an oil cooler with a thermostat to eliminate the problem. Regards, Giles

Carsten, Just googled 'zetec cylinder head core plugs' - lots of problems with these and even some videos of it happening. From what I've read so far, the plugs need to be replaced with new ones. Also, they don't appear to come out very easily. I'm sure if you read a few of the forums all your questions should be answered. Regards, Giles

Just checked the manual and it just says a 'suitable' sealant - really helpful! As i think the 'bungs' are Taper fit, liquid ptfe would probably be okay but I imagine someone like Loctite will supply a more suitable product. Hopefully one of the resident engine builders will be along shortly One more thing, don't overtighten them and strip the thread in the head. That might be a bit more of a problem 😬 Giles Edited by - Klunk on 27 Dec 2012 19:24:21

It didn't leak from these 'bungs' but from the coolant tank instead so I didn't have that problem. Assuming the threads are clean and undamaged, you may well get away with ptfe tape/solution. I will have a look in my Haynes manual to see what it says. Did you see the amended thread above re. thermostat/fan switch? Giles

Forgot to add, I've boiled mine before now and it was fine afterwards. Looking at your set up, it may be wise to check the thermostat is opening correctly (assuming you've not already done this) as you have no bypass/warm up setup from what I can see, so if the thermostat fails completely, the engine will overheat very quickly and try and push water out of any hole it can - possibly what has happened here. In addition to this I would check the fan switch is switching at the correct temperature. The fan cutting in at a higher temperature may be the start of either of these components failing, assuming you have changed nothing else on the car recently. Giles Edited by - Klunk on 27 Dec 2012 18:49:38

Hi Carsten , IIRC the Torx grub screws between the spark plugs are water jacket 'bungs' ( can't think of the proper word!). The simplest answer would be that water is getting past the thread and filling the void. Removing them, checking/replacing them and resealing them in back place should resolve this. Is there water anywhere else? Regards, Giles Edited by - Klunk on 27 Dec 2012 18:32:35

D'oh, too slow!

It should undo anti-clockwise as you would expect (the nut is captive from memory). At least, it is on my '98 S3. Regards, Giles

If using the non FIA switch in the bulkhead you're better isolating the earth side. It does the same job and doesn't knacker your battery (or you) when you inadvertently drop a spanner near the switch and dead short the battery! 😬 With an FIA switch you have to be in the positive side to ensure the engine doesn't 'run on' after it's switched off in the event of a crash. There are plenty of good diagrams on google images which explain what should go where. Merry Christmas all. Giles

Hi Eric , Yes it is possible but, as Q102 says, you'll need a lot steel and forged components to be safe. I have one such engine at home that came out of one of my old caterhams. It would easily rev to 8000 and sounded absolutely sublime 🥰 . Allegedly it would rev to 9000rpm but I didn't fancy the potential rebuild cost. From their website, Kent Cams do one cam suitable for upto 9300rpm!! Don't forget that to make use of the revs you've got to have a top spec head as well, to flow enough air, otherwise it's a waste of time and money. Regards, Giles PS. I could be persuaded to part with my engine if your interested?.....

Hi Chris , Assuming you can get your fingers to the thread end, keep 'undoing' the bolt end whilst pushing as hard as you can on the thread end. You should find the bolt will keep winding itself towards the front of the car until it's free of the wishbone. Regards, Giles

Dave, I'm sure you've already done this, but carefully look over the wiring around the MFRU/ECU area before you start checking with a multimeter. On the way to this year's March Llandow I had a similar issue. After pulling in for petrol, my car would not restart. I eventually found a hidden loose spade connector where the ECU loom is spliced into the Caterham loom. However I spent an hour with a multimeter before I did this I'm sure this won't be your issue as your ECU has got power, however check for disturbed connectors where the mechanics are likely to have been working. As Charlie says, disconnect/reconnect all plugs as there's quite a bit of stress on the loom around that area, and a watch on a careless wrist can wreak havoc. With your immobiliser disabled in the Emerald, I would check all the wiring around the MFRU first, followed by the power feed to it and any associated earths. Good luck Giles Edited by - Klunk on 11 Dec 2012 22:00:38

Hi Dave , The black box you say is connected to nothing sounds like the MFRU. It should have 2 multiplugs connected to it. Or is it another black box - can you post a picture of your ecu area which may help diagnose the issue. Regards, Giles

+1 . I bought the original one about 4 years ago at Stoneleigh and have never regretted paying the higher price. Excellent piece of kit, built to last, and the new ones are even better Giles Edited by - Klunk on 5 Dec 2012 17:06:03

Clive, Once you've repaired your wing you could knock yourself up a pair 😬 Giles

Your right Graham, you need one of the many ODB II tools available to read the codes in the ECU or get it diagnosed by a garage. I would have thought that 85-90deg will be the normal running temp when fully warmed up. So wherever the needle normally sits when fully warmed up (assuming the gauge is accurate! ) Depending on what you find out in the next couple of days, at about £60 a go at a garage, I would buy a code reader - at least you'll have it for the future. Regards, Giles Edited by - Klunk on 3 Dec 2012 21:24:07

Correct. Normally you would pull them tight if in steel but not so tight as to strip the thread. In this instance, you want it to just grip the fibreglass so they can't rotate. I would practice to get the feel of it first then go for it Giles

Precisely the reason why I used them 😬. Just proceed with caution and you'll have no problem. Giles

Graham, From what I can see, the sensor you have replaced in the head controls the fan via the ECU. I know it's new but it may be worth checking the resistance of the sensor at the following temperatures. The resistances should be: 34000ohm at 20deg 1300ohm at 85-90deg It seems to be a common problem here and here. (The second one is a 1.8 focus but there is a reference to a 2001 Fiesta in the thread) Do you have any fault codes? Regards, Giles

Roger's option looks like a better solution. I used a memfast tool to fit my ordinary rivnut as it is easier to control the pressure applied compared to traditional rivnut tools Forgot to say the fibreglass mustn't be too thick so as to stop the rivnut compressing - that will crack the fibreglass. Not sure what you're using the rivnuts for, but I fitted them in the nosecone to secure the front number plate with no issues. Giles