TomB

Very interesting bit of detective work! I’m not sure I’ve got an inlet manifold gasket for my SLR TB, I can’t remember if I fitted one or not. Hen I last had it all apart, I made up this drawing of the support bar for my KV6 TB for someone on here. It’s not a perfect engineering drawing but the best I could do.

Similarly I've a tatty yellow bonnet & scuttle taking up space if anyone wants to collect from near Manchester.

I’m looking for a couple of these rubber grommets which I seems too have lost over the years. Rimmers don’t seem to stock, and I can’t find on eBay. Has anyone got one or two tucked away I could please rehome? thanks, Tom

What’s the best price/ place for the NGK plugs these days? Wary of buying dodgy from eBay.

Ill show you mine if you’ll show me yours I too have had a misfire in recent weeks, and I took apart my leads and found this: I had aftermarket leads, that were plastic bodied, and I assume where not sealing correctly. The OE ones on my 1995 k series are rubber bodied and seal into the spark plug bore, which is the root of the problem I think.

Its a step from Manchester to Coventry, but Ive a niggly feeling one of my driveshafts might need some attention over winter. Ive not found many places that could rebuild them.

Bahf - was this propshaft or drive shafts?

I already had the uprated BMC on mine, and I bought the HiSpec UL4 from a club member, so it was a straight forward fit. I think the hoses differ from standard however, but I can't remember whether I bought these with the callipers or made something custom from Think Automotive. TBH I don't think the stopping power is very different from the standard callipers with 1144 pads, but I was attracted to the unsprung weight saving of nearly 2kg each side I think. I didn't touch the rears, and the balance seems fine to me for road use, but I rarely drive it hard enough on the brakes to notice if the balance isn't quite spot on. A word of caution though if your considering placing an order direct with HiSpec - they do seemingly have a reputation of being hard work to deal with, with reports of poor customer service. Maybe things have changed, but its something be mindful of.

According to the Canley link, they’re 1.8kg each. I’ve got the HiSpec UL4 on standard discs too.

I think you'll be waiting a long time for something original - I cant imagine there are that many around, and survivors would likely be in a museum or the Lotus archives somewhere!

Ive seen this sort of thing on eBay - been tempted for the garage but not pressed the button yet. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/233384037742?hash=item3656c5cd6e:g:2y8AAOSwkyRduFZM There is also this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/112033253485?hash=item1a15b3c86d:g:7f0AAOSwdU9bvzuv

No it’s not just you. This is my new rotor arm after cracking and falling apart. QH pattern parts from Redline and it doesn’t have the recess in the inside of the arm to receive the end of the standard length bolt. So it cracked on fitting. The Lucas part is metal bodied with a bolt recess, the QH one is plastic. Grrr.

Can't you just press the 'any' key? Great work, don't understand any of it!

I used PPG at the end of my rebuild about 18months ago. It’s looks good, it’s barely perceptible. They are very experienced with the subtleties of a 7. I’d recommend getting the full sides covered, rather than just a strip. Dave from PPG travels to you to fit in your garage, which not unreasonably, he charges for. Travel costs for me where a significant proportion of the cost - but if your fairly local you’ll benefit from this.

Has anyone got any Scalextric Caterhams gathering dust? I’ve picked up about 4m of track from eBay, now need some cars for my 6 year old son and I!

Please can I have the K series Dry sump scavenge oil filter sku 75722. £10 thanks

I think for our basic need, the K3 adds in 3 map/ switchable map operation compared to the original M3DK, and the K6 adds more things like the ability to cut the spark for traction control, variable cam system like VVC, VTEC and that sort of advanced stuff. Emerald website is pretty helpful.

I do, send me a blatmail

If your willing, you can undrill the many rivets holding the inside panels and rear bulkhead, then clean with flapwheel all the grotty rust and powder coat and paint which which ever rust treatment looks best. You could then take the engine / box out and do the same in the engine bay, but that less incessible than the frame behind the interior panels. By removing the internal side panels you can access the infamous ‘grot’ trap, which is the area where moisture, grit, inaccessibility and bimetallic corrosion all combine to be the main corrosion spot on a Caterham chassis.

I had problems with my 1.4 starter with my exhaust, as the primary’s were frying the solenoid. On my 1996 era engine, the starter had the solenoid on top of the starter, and it was only millimetres from the manifold. So I ended up fitting a standard 1.8 starter from a later Caterham which had the solenoid underneath the starter. Not had a problems since. I didn’t need to go to Brise, Wosp or powerlite - just a big standard Caterham starter.

Going slightly larger profile tyre helps to - 55 to 60 profile or example.

Nothing to add except a gratuitous photo of mine...

Ive wondered during my phases of wiring tidying, whether it wouldn't be best to remove all the wiring loom from the car and attach it to a large board and completely strip and inspect it all. The best I could do was a full strip, clean, inspection & rewrap on the engine side in-situ, and then to the rear from the around the fuel filter.

If it was me and I was desperate to start it, I’d inspect the cam belt for visual condition and turn it by hand to make sure it turns. Check fluid levels. Look at accessible hoses to give an idea of condition. If ok, crank for oil pressure with injectors unplugged, then plug them in an try again and see what happens. You’ll need a new battery, might be an idea to take another to jump it if needs for help. Run it and see what happens! But before you drive it, you must change the brake fluid, check nothing has seized in the brakes. Doing that, you may as well continue with other normal sercvice items. Depends how desperate you are to hear it purring like a happy cat

Will 15s give you the ride height you want, as although the wheel will be bigger, the tyres will be of reduced profile?