TomB

Loom tape Its non sticky, black tape that clings to the wires and overlapped tape, meaning its really easy ti unwrap, sjould its be needed without leaving stick goo everywhere. Second one down this page: https://www.polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/Tapes.html This should cover most the plugs: https://www.polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/Econoseal_Connectors.html These are the plugs for some of the engine sensors such as the TPS: https://www.polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/Junior_Power_Timer_Connectors.html I used something like this for the small terminals in the plugs, https://www.polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/Crimp-tool-for-a-variety-of-non-insulated-terminals-TT70.html#SID=97 but if I was doing it again Id probably buy a better quality rachet type tool. Get yourself some spare terminals to practise on, and if your replacing any of the loom, the thinwall cable cut to length is quite easy to use and make really slim line looms to lights etc. https://www.polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/Thinwall_cable_cut_to_length.html Be warned, it can get quite addictive!

Hi Mike, I've done some wiring tidying on my 1995 car. I started in the engine bay forwards, unwrapping the loom, cleaning with a toothbrush and interior car cleaner spray (I think!), replacing any suspect bodges or grotty crimps. I replaced a couple of broken terminals and checked the routing, and replaced single bullet connectors for lighting with ecoseals. Similarly during my rebuild, I sorted the back end out which was in a mess. There were all the bullet connectors, but also butt terminals to lengthen wires, poor joints. The loom had been cut at the middle of the tank for the left and right lights and joined with a big block connector - prior to my ownership! I ended up replacing all the light wiring from the point where the loom for the lights passes behind the rear right wheel with thin wall wiring, fitted econoseal plugs for the rear light connections and fog/reverse lights. Then all wrapped in new tape and routed. It was made easier by not having the fuel tank in at that stage of my build. Everything you need should be available from Polevolt . You'll need some decent crimping tools, but if I can do it, anyone can!

Instead of soldering (which I’m awful at), I extended both wires to the cut off switch using good crimping pliers, terminals and heat shrink. I used the 30amp heavy duty cable from Halfords.

I think Ive got a ZF in my older K series - how do I check the preload on this diff without damaging it?

https://www.millwoodcaterham.co.uk/serviceandparts

Rob, Im not sure how many seals there are bit the large ones are 30mm OD with a wall thickness of 3mm, with the smaller ones 22mm OD and a wall thickness of 2mm.

Look like it.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news - but I bought the penultimate one a couple of years ago. But I made a template before I fitted it incase I need to make another from nitrile rubber or similar. I can send a photo and the dimensions etc so you can cut one from nitrile?

On this, you may need to fit some washers to shim the fit so your not putting stress through the radiator.

James Whiting made a replacement gasket, that did not have the cut out for the castellations on the Rover tank. Shaped like a polo mint with the bolt holes. This was to stop the issue of the rivnuts being pulled out by over tightning with the cut out in the gasket. I had a series of nightmares, with failing gaskets, knackered inserts and fuel leaks, finally solved when I rebuilt the car a couple of years ago, I replaced the steel inserts in the tank with my JW gasket.

Hi Paul, somewhere I have a spare set of seals. i could measure them (if I can find them!)

The 95/96 chassis change happened mid 96 I believe. My car is a 1996 P plate, but on a 95 chassis. As you highlight, the obvious difference is the location of the handbrake. However, the post 96 chassis is reputably stiffer, has revised front geometry with anti dive design measures, and I think this is when they changed from VDO to Caterham branded instruments. The chassis loom was improved, with multiplugs tending to replace bullet terminals. If I knew then what I do now, I’d prefer a post 1996 chassis. The cockpit length will be the same. Don’t get too hung up on names, they change around and people upgrade - look at spec and don’t worry about the model name. Post the ads up and you’ll get some feedback. ps check the powder coating, make sure you get to look underneath.

Can we cover off K series by referencing MGF or Freelanders? As others have said, it’s the whole fuel system that needs considering, not just the engine.

Hi Chris, thanks YHM

I think in the UK, most of the 'super' fuel are ethanol free for the time being at least.

I would like to shift my Series 3 imperial chassis tonneau cover after changing my seats, and not using it anymore. It’s has pockets for S type seat headrest and a slight modification for a side impact bar which I have now removed. It does have a few pale marks on it that I can’t easily shift, but there are no tears or rips. Located near Manchester/ Lancashire, but happy to package up and post for £65 plus postage. Edit - Ive reduced price as I originally over egged it.

Can I have dibs on the soft bits Tillet one. Only this week I've bought a standard tillet one! Edit, I can definitely go with this, Ive managed to duck out of the other purchase.

Id be interested in the full tonneau for Tillets. I have a tonneau for S types with headrests, but Ive changed seats. Im in Manchester, so would need to post. I dont suppose your heading to the Yorkshire Motorsport festival next weekend?

I think I’ve cracked it - I’ve increased the max idle ignition trim value. This means the ecu can advance the ignition further to meet the selected idle speed in the map & temp compensation table. The maximum trim limit set was 15deg advance. Allowing up to trim to 25deg advance seems to have helped.

I've recently re-timed my cams (K series, Supersport, SLR/KV6 throttle bodies), and now its needs a little help at cold idle. I think I need to up may 150-200rpm when cold just to help it along a bit. When its warmed, idle is smooth around ~1000rpm, but cold its 850-950. Without making a mess of the map and settings, whats the easiest way to do this in the Emerald software? The IACV is disabled, so idle control is purely through injection/ ignition control. Ive got the manual, but there are few idle control settings, and Im not sur ewhat I need to look at. Thanks

I disagree - whenever I've done it, its been a proper PITA to remove without scraping something. For various reasons I've had the boot floor in and out a number of times in recent years, plus I've got a painted roll bar I don't want it picking up scratches from the viscous edges of the honeycomb. It makes it hugely easier to manipulate without damage and swearing. I'm sure there is a knack to the whole floor, but I can't recall what it is, and in finding the knack, there is a high chance of paint damage to the bar and the skin where its bend around the top of the boot.

And cut the Ali honeycomb section part of the boot floor in half while it’s out, makes it much much easier to refit. Mine now has a left side and right side, mine has most of a tube of RTV silicone helping secure it.

Gorgeous evening, you passed me at Castlerigg while I was on the phone

Probably worth stating Rover or Ford.

Have a look at https://www.pro-bolt.com/