TomB

Funnily enough, I had an advert for The Darkness 2022 tour pop up on my FB feed yesterday. Easter is Cancelled is a good album actually.

Ah, I found some already uploaded. PM me and Ill tell you what Tony charged

Mine was done by TSK - the car went via Arch for check over and reskin, they then transported it down to Kent for Tony to do his magic. Tony brought it back to Lancashire in his van. PM me, include a real email address and Ill fire some pics over and more details.

Hi Jonathan, I hope she likes it, Im sure she will. At least if its her first car, she wont have to relearn years of driving habits, she should be easier as a 'EV native'. At this stage, I've not decided on the home charger unit - this company are local to me in Lancashire, and they have quite a bit of guidance and information on their website https://evolutionsolutions.co.uk/ However, the market leader seems to be PodPoint and I've checked out our neighbours installation. If you install before April there is a grant of £350 available. Im going to properly sort it out when I have the order confirmed with VW and an approximate build slot, probably in the New Year. Cheers Tom

We've decided not to dip a toe in, but to jump in! We ordered a VW ID3 last week. I'll let you know when it arrives in 6 months!

Is it worth a call to Arch? Bruce or Phil might be able to make a pair up for you.

Worth extending your request to the 4-1 race exhaust that has long primaries. It has a slightly different effect over the 4-2-1 manifold, in that it is mainly of benefit at higher engine speeds, and the 4-2-1 helps in the mid range more. However, its a big improvement over the standard.

I got this email too and was going to post the same. Any thoughts? Have a link on me! https://wynnsonline.co.uk/product/wynns-specialist-e10-protector/

Your new here, aren't you? Caterham dont do discounts. If you look in the club discount directory, you'll find a wide range of discounts - but none from Caterham.

Yes, taking the engine out yourself (with a friend) is a water shed moment in any 7 owners life and its not a hard job with another pair of hands, a bit of confidence and a crane. Have a good look at the manual and try to work out the order of doing it in reverse. A good day in the garage, or over a weekend is about right if you don't want to rush. You can take the engine out without the gearbox, then it really isn't too difficult to do with the engine either hanging on the crane or on the floor. There's usually ~6-8 bolts holding the clutch cover to the flywheel, once that's off, there's a few bolts holding the centre of the flywheel to the crank. You can use a dedicated clutch alignment tool, or the right sized socket on an extension piece also works. Gives a good opportunity to inspect / replace the clutch / CRB.

This is more or less what I’ve got on my home made 1.8k Supersport conversion. I’ve got a race exhaust, verniers, SLR throttle bodies and an Emerald ECU. The engine is mapped at 150bhp on standard pistons. I just make sure the Rev limit is set accordingly in the ECU - I think it hard cut at 7200 or 7300. But I can’t remember the last time it cut in. In its former guise as a 1.4, I fitted the verniers and lightweight flywheel, which I retained when I did the 1.8 conversion. Cost effectiveness is difficult to gauge - new exhausts are not cheap! Bang for buck, vernier and lightweight flywheel are well worth doing. Some would say your better of saving for longer and going all in with Dave Andrews - but at the end of the day if your exhaust is strangling the engine, you’ll need to change that anyway.

I was thinking about the de-dion car arrangement with double wishbone with anti-roll bar. But I expect you would need to replace much more than a single upright, so its rather more than a repair!

If you need to buy a new upright, is it an opportunity to upgrade to the later front suspension and do away with the trunnions?

I still thinks you’re better exhausting the possibility of using the internal pump. You can replace the pump as I’ve linked, but if you went down this route, I’m sure a component auto electrician could wire in a new cable and solder it to the correct connections. I can’t recall the details, but I think it’s a econseal plug, two wires in a a common sleeve, with the wires passing through the resin block into the cradle and then terminating in the cradle. Im sure it’s not difficult if you can solder neatly - after all, that’s how it was made in the first place. Plus you can clean all the gunk out behind the tank, derust and clean up properly assuming the tank was removed to extract the pump and cradle.

Haven't you raised this on one of the Facebook groups? I replied and sent links to the internal pump at Merlin Motorsport - pump model IPT101.

Make sure you get the genuine Lucas rotary arm if your changing it. I had a pattern part (Quinten Hazel) from Redline and it wasn’t moulded the same a the Lucas, OE one - so when I refused the bolt, it cracked the arm as it didn’t have the correct recess moulded to take the end of the bolt.

Confirm the reversing light earths through the gearbox, so its a single wire only on my 1995/early 96 car.

I needed to tweak up my idle on my K / Emerald / SLR TB combo. It wasn't as lumpy as above, but was hovering about 900rpm at idle and a bit chuggy, and about 2-300 below where it should have been in the other settings. I reset the TPS from the laptop, and also adjusted the maximum trim advance for ignition at idle condition. This is a setting that limits the degrees of advance at idle to a selected maximum value to help idle control - nudging this up (I cant remember the value I selected, but I think you cant go about 25degrees) increased idle much closer to where it should have been.

Oulton - yes please!

It’s a kit car at the end if the day, some modifying with an angle grinder should never be ruled out!

Wouldn’t a couple of minutes with a grinder and touch up paint on the bracket relieve any pressure on the inlet?

Could it be a drive shaft fault? Edit - I didn't read the full thread before posting! Ignore me.

Wish I had one on mine, it would make efforts to install the intercom etc much easier!

I thought the consensus for standard brakes is Mintex 1144 on the front and standards on the rear. The rear brakes do a lot of work, and if you put the 1144 on the rear you end up over braked on the rear.

Loom tape Its non sticky, black tape that clings to the wires and overlapped tape, meaning its really easy ti unwrap, sjould its be needed without leaving stick goo everywhere. Second one down this page: https://www.polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/Tapes.html This should cover most the plugs: https://www.polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/Econoseal_Connectors.html These are the plugs for some of the engine sensors such as the TPS: https://www.polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/Junior_Power_Timer_Connectors.html I used something like this for the small terminals in the plugs, https://www.polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/Crimp-tool-for-a-variety-of-non-insulated-terminals-TT70.html#SID=97 but if I was doing it again Id probably buy a better quality rachet type tool. Get yourself some spare terminals to practise on, and if your replacing any of the loom, the thinwall cable cut to length is quite easy to use and make really slim line looms to lights etc. https://www.polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/Thinwall_cable_cut_to_length.html Be warned, it can get quite addictive!