The Aces should be entirely independant of the Stack (other than sharing the same feed from the ECU).
DSL, stick your head under the dash - if the Aces unit is silver you'll be sending it away, but if it's black with an LCD and a couple of buttons you can DIY.
It *is* a Civic Type R engine (K20A) - as Danny mentioned, I'm currently installing one from the same supplier. Despite being the same weight, it's a couple of inches taller than a Duratec which is looking like the main issue
Can you give me a list of *everything* the engine/dry sump includes please? Engine internals spec, induction, dry sump pump?, sump make?, flywheel?, Clutch?, alternator?
Cheers
Stuart
Has anyone tried Nexen N 2000's? They're available in 13" and a fraction (1/4 to be specific) of the price of a CR500 or ACB10, so sound ideal for a Caterham. Any thoughts?
No.
Forum Disclaimer: Well, it depends on how pedantic you're being with the definition of 'fit'. If the cage os spaced out from the chassis a bit (and it depends what version it is too), is can be made to cover the cockpit area. However, the holes for the front legs of the cage will be open, and the bolts at the side of the cage will stop it attaching to the poppers in the sideskin.
It is because the mounting stud for the brake pipe union makes it a royal PITA if you do it from the left - it tends to catch the back of the diff. It can be shortened a little to make if possible, but it's still more difficult.
Ah, I've got a couple of EU2's, so no thanks.
The EU2 has a single bolt on feed to the warning light, while the EU3 uses a plug with 2 terminals in it.