blade_runner

I can confirm the S & 5 typo, my reg document starts 5DK !

Wouldn't it flash on and off every time you cornered hard and the oil surged up the axle tube?

Scary stuff Mankee! Glad you're ok!

One of my half shafts did this when the nut worked loose, when I disassembled the key way had fractured

I've run 48's on the road at 14 psi for years but then again my car is lighter then most at around 400ish kg

I don't see a sig link

Thanks for the replies guys. Mankee, I wish I'd seen your post earlier as I bought a Rivnuts tool and fixings last night online! Doh! Oh well I've got one now, and you can never have too many tools. I got your e mail, things have been a bit manic, but I'll drop you a reply later regarding the wing. Cheers.

Thanks for the replies guys, I bought a nylon bolt kit around 5 years ago, but never got around to fitting it... Doh! Didnt think of drilling new holes at a different spacing...

Hi all, I had a bit of an incident on track a couple of weeks ago where my rear wheel ingested a cone and ripped off/smashed the offside rear wing. As seems to happen in this situation its pulled the rivnuts through the side skin leaving a larger hole. So my question is firstly what size rivnuts are used as standard (M5 or M6?) and is it possible to get rivnuts with a larger outer flange what will span the hole ripped in the side skin, or have I got to effect a repair with standard rivnuts and penny washers. My car now is rather tatty, due to being over 10 years old and its had quite a lot of use on track, so I'm only looking to make a mechanically sound repair not a rolls royce job.

Yup, i'm on Grange Farm, Will pop you a Blatmail.

I've recently moved to Suffolk, Ipswich in fact! Glad the Mx5 guys are going to be ok. A tatty wing might be useful to me as it will match the rest of the car! It's had a hard life, and each winter I contemplate stripping it and sending it back to Arch, but it's nice to hammer it at track days and not have to worry about gravel rash or other cosmetic damage, while it's in its current condition. I will have to come to a Suffolk meeting and get to know the locals. Steve.

Sunday approx 17:30 white 7 ( hood up, couldn't see a rear plate) came past me and pulled onto Ropes drive.

Hi Mankee, that's was me, in my tatty James Whiting original prototype blade the one that was used for the Evo article I had an incident with a bollard just before lunch, tore the offside rear arch off, so trailered up and headed home. I hope you wasn't in the MX5? The air ambulance was turning up as I left Circuit, I hope they're ok?

Edited by - blade_runner on 4 Mar 2014 22:23:59

My whiting prototype blade has the Alcon 4 pots on and they are fantastic, last year when I gave them an overhaul and spoke to Performance braking to get a seal kit they mentioned the Alcon 4 pots with solid drilled discs in their opinion were better than the Caterham big brake kit and less unstrung weight too. But they don't just bolt straight to the uprights, you will need a couple of washers or shims just to space the caliper slightly off the upright, just purely to centuralise the disc. There should be some pics on webshots on my link below. James doesn't sell the drilled solid discs anymore I simply bought discs from Canley classics for about £13 each then clamped my old discs to the new and drilled them in the same array. I'm also using the Pagid RS4 pads on recommendation from performance braking and they are fantastic. Edited by - blade_runner on 4 Mar 2014 22:26:06