Stuart Faulds
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Everything posted by Stuart Faulds
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Duratec Gearbox/Diff Combo - What are you using?
Stuart Faulds replied to rgrigsby's topic in TechTalk
To be fair Danny, you could get away with a 1:1 first gear with these torquey lumps you keep spec'ing. FWIW the other 2 duratec cars I've got at the moment have the BGH tall first box's - one of which has done 30ish trackdays on the back of one of Ammo's lower powered engines (a 220bhp 2.0) without a hint of problem. -
Doesn't it make you wonder why James spent some of his valuable time to write and post that?
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I'm 95% sure the squeezebox can be synched with another, but my server's on its arse at the moment so I can't check
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DSL's right - the AMB is MST compatable. Haven't seen one of the other type for years - ISTR they withdrew support for them 4/5 years ago.
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In the side and out the bottom.
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What oil temperatures are you seeing? And why have you linked it to the head gasket failure? We regularly see oil temps in excess of 120 degrees with no ill effects. I would not recommend the oil cooler in conjunction with the apollo tank on a wet sump - the pressure pump will be at its limit, and you're likely to cause more problems than you solve.
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IMHO you run the risk of over-cooling the oil in anything other than race conditions - we regularly taped the cooler up for races. However, the cooler goes between the scavenge pump and belltank, and the cooler sits under and behind the radiator - there should be a duct which fits under the rad and over the cooler.
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Ah, sorry - my mistake. That should sort him out.
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I can't believe that no-one has mentioned spring rates
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The tripod joint have been in use for years - I can't think when they changed, but they've been in use for at least 5 years. The current spec ears (2004 onwards) have large enough holes to fit the joint through.
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I'm not convinced they're any more difficult to repair, and yes, Arch still make the race chassis. That said, the only cars that have used a 'race' chassis since 2002 are Superlights and CSR's.
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The current spec Caged SLR cage is a little wider at the bottom making it much easier to make the half doors removeable.
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Off the top of my head I can think of 4 roadsport variants for a dedion S3 - one of them is a tall cage and one has curved top bars. There are 3 variations of the Superlight cage on top of that, but they all look broadly similar. I'd be astonished if you needed modifications to fit a Roadsport cage, but whether you'd have all the bushes for a superlight cage is anyones guess. A Superlight cage was £700 + vat the last time I bought one, and I think the Roadsport one is a little cheaper.
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I can't see how it's possible to cross-thread that bolt unless the bush is twisted, but it's quite common for the thread to have a fair bit of powdercoat in it.
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Haven't you got a blackpack heated windscreenstanchions and a pair of black headlightindicatorsstays too?
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I'm not sure how what his definition of rapidly is, but if the fan is bringing it down and switching back off, and it's running cool when moving then it's perfectly fine imho. It's possible that it's got a larger water pump pulley which would cause it to warm up a bit quicker at idle, but overall this sounds like a non-issue.
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Is the fan managing to maintain the temperature once it's running? If so, he doesn't seem to actually have a problem
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I'm concerned at the 'reworking' of the cooling system - that engine's in a fairly low state of tune, and assuming the plumbing was as per Micks normal installs it should have worked fine. Given that the CSR has a few fundamental differences, I'll be surpirised if it's anything like that, but then it shouldn't need to be. Can he supply some detail pics of the plumbing as it is now? Has he checked the calibration of the MXL temp sender?
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The airbox draws air from all around the top - there is no pretence of any 'ram' effect or silencing, it is designed to equalise airflow and temperature across the 4 cylinders. It uses the standard filter inside. The footwell cooling mod doesn't look particularly elegant, but it works.
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Try here
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Rear suspension parts question on a new build - UPDATE from Caterham
Stuart Faulds replied to gwiddicombe's topic in TechTalk
You have a metric chassis so should be using an M10 caphead on the top mount (with the sleeve) and a 1/2" unf hex head for the bottom mount. The only other M10 capheads I can think of are for the forward end of the radius arms - if they're in then whatever you've got left is the damper bolt. -
Mick, if you can make either fit 'easily' into a Caterham, do you fancy a job?
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The F20c in the S2000 is *not* the same size or weight as the K20a - it's both bigger and heavier.
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The Honda K20a (Civic type R) is no heavier than the 2.0 duratec. It is taller though, and a right royal PITA to fit
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I'm not convinced by 'free' either