Griff

I have to agree with Peter. Though actually the cost to make up a plate was nothing like £75 - I wouldn't bother with anodising something I have to crawl under the car to see - it was just too much hassle for the benefit. It's better to pump out the oil and do a full change at the end of the season. An advantage of the pump is you can see how much oil is extracted and replace the same volume plus a bit for the filter, avoiding overfilling and the fun and mess that entails...

Thanks guys. I've checked the suggested sites but they seem to offer the full units or non-standard replacement bulbs, many of which would fail an MoT. All I'm really after is where to get the bulb in its housing, or better still just the bulb. So I spent 2 mins this morning opening the sealed housing and found inside a very boring BA9S halogen bulb 12V x 10W, exactly like this one. I've since discovered these are used on bikes, for studio lighting and even by the model train fraternity. Hopefully, I'll find one locally now.

The N/S halo light bulbs failed - simple enough job I thought. I removed the little module which is a plastic housing, reflector and little 10W/12V halogen bulb that part removes like a bayonet fitting but doesn't actually come out (seems like it's sealed in from the back as there are no slots for the bayonet pins to pass throught the reflector). A quick Google to find the part proved fruitless - everyone selling fancy upgradfes to make the yellowish halogen whiter. They are stupid money and I've no idea if they will fail an MoT give the strict new rules on lighting. I'm not this vain either, so can anyone tell me if this "module" is a BMW only part or something I could expect my local motorfactor to have? Cheers, Mike

I'm in Cirencester and have a dial gauge. You asked for gauges plural but I only have the one. Blatmail if you're interested. Cheers, Mike

Hi, I'm looking for a passenger side half door in glass-fibre or possibly carbon (latter is probably overkill), similar to these here. Prefer if undrilled. I have a drivers side door already but would consider a pair. The ones recently listed on Blatchat are on 3rd dibs so not much change of getting those 🙆🏻 Cheers, Mike

That's an interesting thought. I had a look and the "bolt" heads which are actually socket screws so maybe they pick up an impulse from both sides of the screw? Or perhaps on some of the screws but not all? There weren't any GPS issues yesterday despite all these solar flares, so I'm pretty comfortable with the GPS speed reading. I'm off to find some hi-tech chalk...

It's a bit odd because all worked fine before Stack reflashed the unit (and replaced the taco needle which fell off!!), nothing else was touched on the pickup which is the usual front hub arrangement looking at the head of the disc bolts. I've checked various tyres and they all have diameters in the range of 500 to 525mm, so that doesn't explain the difference. And definitely the Stack is set to 4 pulses per rev. I'll do a check with the chalk method - not easy on my gravelled drive - but 3.142 x 2 x rolling radius should be pretty close. It all changes anayway with speeds and pressures, but I'd rather not be 70% out as I was at first.

I scratch my head. My sensor is front wheel mounted (4 pulses per rotation) and I'm running Toyo 888s with 250mm loaded (rolling) radius (taken from the Toyo site), so circumference should be 1571mm. If I use the stack recommended input the speedo is wildly out. I did a very rough recalc without the benefit of a GPS I input circ = 770mm which was seemed to be under-reading on speed. Yesterday I did a GPS check and found that 47mph actual was 42mph on the Stack. So I need the speedo to read higher which I think means I need a larger number, 770 x 47 / 42 = 862mm. Clearly this bears no relation to the real circumference so where am I going wrong? It's not a big issue for the 888sm but I switch tyres from time to time which means working out equivalent factors for those "if" I can find their rolling radius. Otherwise I need to do a GPS calibration every time. Cheers, Mike

Why worry? I've lost several "legal" front plates over the years to speed humps so now I keep the last broken specimen in the boot in case a nice Mr Plod ever questions me why I don't have a front number plate. I don't like to mount it higher as it blocks air to the oil cooler. Since I've never been stopped I haven't been able to check the theory. Perhaps you could kee a broken plate in the boot and use stick-on numbers as your "reserve"?

Will blatmail you.

I need one - is it black? Have you got the bolts to go with it? Cheers, Mike

Now sold 😬

During a clearout today I came across a new and unused tie rod refurbishment kit (narrow track) the same as this one in the Caterham store. Everything is there except the little locking pins used on the current design. I think older racks used a locking tab which is why they aren't in this set. Should be easy to find these or make one up from a small roll pin etc. £40 and I'll pay the P&P (to a UK address) so less than half the Caterham price.

Not mine and only a short while to go...link here

Success - new bearing etc arrived from Caterham on Friday and had it all back together by 3pm today. Everything perfect except I forgot to empty the catch tank and, having slightly overfilled when topping up the engine, came back from a quick test run looking like a WW1 fighter pilot... All running quiet and smoothly the way it should be, shame about the weather tomorrow as I think it demands a long blat after all the grief. Thanks all for your input and feedback. Cheers, Mike