bobt

I'm looking for something a little more hard wearing than that. An hours drive in the rain would soon have that washed off.

On a non seven project I'm working on, I've had some alloy castings shot blasted to clean them up. Is there some weather proof coating I could spray them with to keep them looking nice? (these are wishbones and other suspension parts) Thanks Rob

I've never had a problem with CF wings star crazing.

I believe there is more than one version of the MRFU and they're not compatable.

I mark all the suspension and engine mount bolts with a fine paint stick. That way tightness can be checked with a quick visual walk round

The lambda heater is indeed a 12v supply but the heater is not permanently on with the ignition. It's only switched on until the exhaust is upto temperature. If you are going to run a fully programable ECU you should question why it wouldn't be run open loop and therefore not require the lambda at all.

185s on the front, 205s on the rear. All 13inch rims Rob

here

Following a respray at TSK I had Dave from PPG cover both side panels of car in it's entirety! I didn't bother with the rear wings since they're bare carbon and bullet proof. Top job.

They, (power speed) normally fix these at some point within the main perf tube towards the exit end. It acts in a way as a restricter and helps baffle the noise. They're usually an option as to if you want/need one.

Ok thats good, but just because you get a spark with the plug out of the engine doesn't always mean you get a spark accross the terminals within the combustion chamber. It requires alot more energy for the spark to jump the gap under a compression cycle than it does at atmospheric pressure. Its not an uncommon failure mode for the HT circuit within the coil to burn through its insulator in effect shorting a large proportion of the HT coil. It will still spark on the bench but the voltage is very much reduced. This is why a resistance check of the HT circuit of the coil is always work doing.

I should add... To test the LT circuit, disconnect the LT plug from the coil and place a volt meter across the terminals inside the plug on the end of the lead. When you crank the engine you should see the voltage rise and fall (easier with an analog meter) You can test the LT and HT paths within the coil with a resistance check. The LT will be much lower than the HT. Any short or lack of continuity indicates a problem.

To rule out the dizzy, disconnect the feed HT lead from it and jam a spark plug in the end. Rest the spark plug against the block or bell housing and crank the engine. If it sparks then it's the dizzy, if it doesn't then it's the coil, or HT feed lead or LT circuit.

Well, I ended finishing the job lastnight in a slightly different was. As the metal thickness is about 25mm, on the reverse side of the part I opened out the hole to 13.5mm for 10mm depth. With the aid of a press a then drove in an M8 nut There's no way that's coming out!

The hole is bang on 8.5mm. It's a drilled hole, not an old knackerd thread. My concerns are with having the thread cut direct into the ali given the part will be assembled/disassembled regularly. In terms of torque, the 8mm bolt that will screw into it as a big 5cm knurled head on it which will be tightened tight by hand.