LOL -the diff isn't upside down, but the top photo is.
Neither photo is much use because it doens't show what's actually preventing it from lining up - can't see the prop in either.
ACB10's are quicker and more stable through a heat range. They both give similar levels of progression and feedback, given your criteria of being setup properly. They are also both useable right down to the wire.
Most of my 'hardcore' trackday-only customers use ACB10's, on a range of cars from standard superlights to DLT's monster. For road use with an occasional track foray I'd have the CR500 every single time.
This intrigues me - has anyone ever actually tried 0 degrees of camber on *any* tyre?
FWIW I'd stick 2 degrees negative on the front, 1.5 on the rear, mid camber, toe to taste and leave it on cr500's all year round, for your proposed use.
I thought you were talking about the engine in the Atom (K20a) The S2000 has the F20c. Which engine did you weigh at 125kg, and what state of dress was it in?
There are some large assumptions being made regarding Mike's engine installation.
Mike, on most stack looms there is a female spade connector (normally a yellow wire) labelled 'Alarm' which will switch to earth. If you don't have this, then I don't know which pin it is offhand, but Peter Carmichael's the stack expert.
I've ended up with 1 x SV and 1 x S3 nosecones, brand new but painted Titanium Silver sitting on a shelf.
£130 each inc VAT - they are bare and unfitted, so no grill, badge or Dzus fasteners.
Graham - what you are seeing is very common with these tyres. It regularly happens early in the life of the tyre and gets no worse. It also has no negative impact on the performance of the tyre or safety (in my experience of getting through a few hundred of them, and also having discussed them with Avon when the tyre was first introduced and we first observed this phenomenon).
Not that I expect the panic merchants to believe me of course.
You're right Peter - it's one of the many compromises a fwd car has to make (it will obviously toe out again more dramatically under braking).
Surely toe is also very dependant on the ackerman characteristics of any given car anyway?
It will be a Suretrac or ZF depending on age. As Adam says, the ZF has 2 crossed pins visible, while the Suretrac has none (the standard open diff has one pin). The AP acts like an open diff when it's jacked up too. There's also a good chance that it's stamped on the casing somewhere (AP or ZF) along with the ratio (3.92).
Mav - you should be able to get the retaining bolts out of the older ones without moving the caliper. It's been a few months since I've done them on a 2 bolt caliper, but I'm pretty sure they both clear. The single bolt caliper definitely clears.
Dave - you do not need to disturb the caliper at all. Remove the single retaining bolt, and the pads just pull out the back of the caliper.