Mike Molloy

*thumbup* for Arch in Huntingdon. Bruce Robinson 01480 459661.

"Reduce weight and add lightness!" But don't, whatever you do, buy a set of corner weight scales. You will just be making a monkey for your own back! Barry Hunt did that with his hillclimb Blackbird and said weight loss turns into an obsession. 😬 Spend the money on trackdays/proper tuition/tyres.

First tip - put a new battery in your RF fob. Second tip - carry your spare fob and try that as well. Third tip - if you do happen to park near the local mobile phone mask, the doors probably won't unlock in the first place. If you get into the car using the key, hold the plip physically as close as possible to the receiver before pressing the button.

How do you know the immobiliser has failed? Is there a LED telltale available somewhere? Is the immobiliser operated by a RF remote plip or by a transponder in the ign key? When my scooby ground to a halt the nice RAC man got me going by hotwiring the fuel pump. I dug out the "Thatcham Cat 1" alarm and found that one of the circuit disable relays had developed a dry joint. Soldered that up and I was away. It was a right pain cos "Sigma" wouldn't divulge any of the operating details and all the wires were black!

Shazam! The "blinky light" (aka CCT LED) is a *good thing* to have as it tells you the state of the immobiliser. Especially useful if you are trying to start the engine while passively immobilised, for example. As SM25T says, you should have a small red LED mounted in the centre of your dash somewhere. If you don't (and I can't see why it would be missing, unless your car has had a homebrew custom dash fitted), then simply get a standard red LED and holder from Maplin (or wherever) and fit it yourself. Hopefully the wiring from the 5AS immobiliser is still in place. There should be a yellow wire from 5AS Pin 17 to the LED cathode (negative connection), and a brown wire (permanent live feed) probably from the ignition switch if you have one. If you can't tell which way round the LED connections are, try both orientations. You won't damage it by fitting it backwards - it just won't work. The 5AS LED output has a current limiting resistor in series, so you just need to fit the external LED itself. Try and stress relieve the wiring where it connects to the LED. The legs tend to be a bit brittle and snap easily. Hope that helps!

What change in front camber angles did you make between the x-ply ACBs and the radial CR500s?

I also await a hillarious "canoe" tale! (But I managed to glue my arse into the car the first time I did a foam seat, so i can't exactly talk...)

One question - why a Rocket lump? Capacity: 2,294cc - so bhp per litre is rubbish as standard Dry Weight: 320kg - so the engine's going to be heavy! Maximum Power: 140bhp @ 6,000 rpm - so rev limit similar to car engine, and power far less than the 194bhp available from a bone stock Hayabusa for example. Surely the raison d'etre of a BEC is light weight (and the F1 sound track of course...)

Just bought a set from Oxtead. 120 + 10 P&P + VAT = 149.50 all in. Delivered next day. Call Benj on 01883 712 112 to order.

You could try Redline - 01883 346515. That's where I got mine from. You never know, they might still have some old stock gathering dust.

"Caged" in Frome would probably be closest to you?

Dude - YHBM.

My car has Bilstein M1 dampers (which feel very, errm, "well damped"...) and originally had the green springs (250lb front, 215lb rear). Rock hard, good for the nice smooth track, but difficult to hang on when navigating a bumpy B road. I can't afford the oh-so-very-shiny-my-precious Nitrons, but I do fancy something with adjustable damping... Springs are currently 150lb front (std Caterham issue which I had on the shelf, but would have preferred to try 175lb)) and IIRC 120lb linear rear. Red (widetrack) bar on the front, Freestyle adjustable rear. Can't comment about the performance as I haven't had it on the road yet! Anybody care to post their experiences of Protech?

One other thing to try: 1) Take the battery out of the remote. 2) Press one button and hold it down for a few seconds. 3) Replace battery. 4) Re-sync with the 5 presses as above. Let me know if that works... Is the (car) battery fully charged?

Forgot to tick the notify box!