allen

I remember it being said some years ago that (believe it or not) UK freezers were not designed for the cold and it was possible to put them in a location (unheated garage?) where they might get too cold. Honest 😬 allen

The cheapo B&S carbs have a very odd fuel delivery system. There's a little tube below the carb that sits in the tank. It has a ball valve (non return valve). If fuel is left in the tank for long periods it gums up - strangely enough this has the opposite effect from what you'd imagine - mower runs rich and fouls the spark plug. Free this off and replace the old petrol and I think you'll be fine, but drain the tank (run it empty) before future storage. Allen Should add - check condition of the plug and test for a spark. Edited by - allen on 17 Nov 2010 14:52:11

Difficult to tell about the seal, as you say, could be a magnifying effect caused by a build up of oil - but it's not a terribly expensive part and replacing it is a no brainer. The missing bit on the yoke seems odd - can't see how this would occur in use, can't see it's been ground for clearance on the grease nipple. IMO it shouldn't be like that and, though not a cheap job, needing the attention of a propshaft specialist (yoke replacement, UJ replacement , front and rear I guess, whilst you're at it , and a balance. A good £100 I expect. Allen

Check also the clearance between the oil pickup and the bottom of the sump - I had acrossflow that wouldn't produce any oil pressure and turned out to be a no clearance issue. Allen

Main ingredient is Stoddard Solvent. A colorless, flammable liquid that smells and tastes like kerosene. It will turn into a vapor at temperatures of 150–200 °C. Stoddard solvent is a petroleum mixture that is also known as dry cleaning safety solvent, petroleum solvent, and varnoline; its registered trade names are Texsolve S® and Varsol 1®. It is a chemical mixture that is similar to white spirits.

Main ingredient is white spirit, plus a few aditives. OK for corosion protection, ok for freeing things off. Not at all good in the long term for lubrication (white spirit evaporates). Allen

Seems odd that the car can 'decide' to turn something off because you put the lights on. Unless this is a function of the ecu, which I've not come across before. I'd be inclined to guess at an earthing fault? Allen

If the clutch spigot bearing in the end of the crankshaft is a needle roller - check that all is OK and no needles have been displaced. Irf phosphor bronze, look for a burr, might need replacing - right sod to get out though. Failing that, a trial fit with the clutch cover plate loose - so the driven plate can self align, could be a usefull check - carefull removal should keep the driven plate in the correct position (sometimes 😬), even if not, you'll know it fits if the driven plate is correctly aligned. Allen

A solid piece of perspex the shape of the roll bar does not work, it increases buffeting. I tried it. Whether a series of holes or vents would help I don't know. You want a set of whimps here I think I have some with instructuions somewhere. Allen

You've a number of options, not sure I'd reccomend fitting a standard clutch, but you may not need to replace the cover plate (just the clutch driven plate and CRB [clutch release bearing]). Have a look here. May be worthiving them a ring to check their advice. Allen Edited by - allen on 3 May 2010 21:48:20

New bolts come with a coating on the threads, new flywheel - new bolts, no aditional threadlock required. Allen

If they need to know a vehicle, tr one that had a crossflow fitted, e.g. Mk I of II Escort. A mini (original) one would probably do. Mind you, you need to establish whether a ballast resistor is fitted. Any decent motor factor should be able to help you out. Allen

Sounds a little high when cold, but I guess it's a brand new engine? My 1800 zetec shows 80 to 90 and I don't rev it over 2000 rpm till there's some heat in the oil, warm figures seem similar to mine - I don't know what pressure the relief valve is set at but I've not noticed it operate. Allen

Do they really supply an alloy washer - old school they used to be copper washers and they work hardned - one either used a new one each time or annealed it (heated it up and let it cool gradually as far as I recall) I guess the alloy ones could work harden the same? Allen

Bit of a long shot (what do I mean by 'bit' ?) Mini engine and box needs to get to Denmark, anyone going in the next week or two? Regards, Allen