Mike Biddle

Re well being of feet, I suffered the same problem living in Dubai with an LHD car, also an injected VX. My solution was to fit scoops venting into the footwells, which works very well, see the pic below. Note that when this was taken I had fitted a different engine, hence exhausts both sides.

Thanks guys, will look at both of those. Mike.

I'm going to sell my 1989 Range Rover, and need to clean up the matt black areas, window surrounds, lower pillars, bumpers etc, no corrosion, just faded surface. I want to end up with a sheen, but not a gloss, so T cut or similar might be a tad too aggressive. Any experience/thoughts?

Agree with RJ, When I had the business in Dubai, we had a 5 ton forklift and if I ever wanted to get a look underneath the 7 a couple of pieces of wood on top of the forks and up she goes, perfect! A few others are, Stahlwille torque wrench, chain hoists, a pair of steelfixers nips, a 36" stihl chainsaw, and a brush attachment for my stihl combi https://www.stihl.co.uk/STIHL-Products/KombiSystem-and-MultiSystem/KombiTools/21174-1482/KB-KM.aspx Finaly, magnet on a stick and mirro on a stick.

I have 280 MM Hi spec discs and and racing 4 calipers. I am running 13 inch rims, so you should be OK, but that would depend on rim and caliper design/dims. You should be able to check by getting the caliper dims and measuring clearances on the car.

One of the plugs in the photos looks like it's running rich. Could be an injector problem?

Oops! Well there you go, never assume anything. Sorry Steve, love to help but Florida is a tad too far away. Try to post some pics.

Elie, I have a 1938 BMW currently under restoration and if you can post or send me a picture I can ask both the restorer and the technical advisor at the club, and I'm sure, get an answer, probably get hold of the correct part.

As per other posters, you do not currently have enough information to come to any conclusions, get any quotes, or make any decisions. If you can get it out of the car and take the sump off that should allow enough of an inspection to gather required information/quotes and make an informed decision. Are you in a position to do that/do you have facilities/mechanical skills to make an assessment or at least take and post some pics? If you had the engine out now I am on Crawley today, going to Stuttgart over the weekend to retro classics show, would be prepared to delay return to North Somerset and take a look on Monday if it helps. I'm assuming of course that your location is indicated by your posting name?

I believe that dual master cylinders are legal in UK, but you are not supposed to have a means of adjusting the balance from the driving seat, I will be looking for an MOT soon in order to register the 7 in UK so I guess I will find out then, because that's what I have. Pedal effort and travel is dependent on the relative surface area between master cylinder and brake cylinder/s pistons. If you have a master cylinder with a large piston surface area relative to brake caliper piston/s then you will have a short pedal travel but high pedal effort, and if its the other way round then you will have less pedal effort with a longer pedal travel. The second scenario offers more sensitive control over braking effort, the first can feel quite "wooden" in action. you can look at in the same way as a gear ratio.

Hi RJ, if you do a lot of track days and place high importance on well balanced brakes, then surely a dual master cylinder with balance bar set up would be ideal, then you can set the balance according to to your needs, track, road etc.

Yes Jonathan the air goes straight into the footwells, but its not so much pushed in by the scoops as sucked in by the negative cockpit pressure. Really helps to cool the feet. The OP was posting about cockpit temps?

Chris, here are my experiences with footwell temps, which was a big issue for me when I first got the car new in 1996, ambient temps in Dubai being rarely less than 20C, and I was often driving the car in 35C. Needless to say the footwells were getting really hot and I experimented a lot to get that under control as far as possible. Wrapping or coating the primaries will help. Insulating the transmission tunnel internally is a big help if done well. A lot of hot air from the engine bay goes down there. While you are doing that, try to seal all joints around the tunnel and footwells, whether you run a standard or aeroscreen there is a lot of negative pressure in the cockpit and if you get someone else to drive you can run your hand around under the dash and feel hot air coming in almost everywhere. I took the heater out and threw it away,then covered the hole making sure it was sealed up well. You don't need it anyway, just wear motorcycle clothing if you want to drive in cold weather. Finally, I fitted air scoops to the footwells, and that really helps, the negative cockpit pressure ensures a good blast of cooling air on your feet. You can see the passenger side scoop in the picture below. Of course not everyone wants to cut holes in the side of their car, but I use mine for touring and comfort is paramount.

After spending 4 weeks in UK recently the car hire bill was not cheap, having 5 adults plus luggage to cart around. So, I'm thinking that buying a car would be the best option so I'm seeking the collective advice, here are the parameters. 1. Must fit into the forthcoming classic car collection, with at least a chance of future appreciation. 2. Must accommodate aforementioned 5 adults + luggage. 3. Something with style, power, and pace. 4 No German cars allowed. Right now I'm leaning towards a Jaguar XJR, and there may be a "portfolio" special edition car for sale, someone is going to take a look for me next week. Big, (Audi A8 size) fast, (0-60 5 secs) Aluminium unitary construction, Aluminium suspension, quite a sophisticated car, and only 100 portfolio's made. Any other suggestions?

If the De Dion tube is out of line with the chassis, shimming won't fix it, best establish that first.