Mankee

Cheers, Steve. Neil is in contact with SPC and R&R about getting the ramps if mine aren't the ones suitable for a lightweight car.

I will be selling my complete 3.92 ZF diff at some point. However, I don't particularly want to rip the LSD out of the unit, as it works perfectly well. Also, it has a rather large preload (75 lbft) and, I suspect, the wrong ramps in it for a lightweight car. I wasn't planning on selling up until May-June time, but could be tempted to swap to the Titan right now if the prop work isn't too much and if the ZF can go for the right money.

Get a grip, you guys. ( , in case anyone gets upsets)

Gerry (2GBR) kindly weighed one of his clutch of diffs (see what I did there?) and gave me the info last night on the ZF: 7" Sierra diff with ZF and oil = 23.4kgsAnd on my bathroom scales: 7" Sierra diff with Titan and no oil = 21.8kgsSo not a great deal in it, especially when you consider one is dry and the other isn't. Think I'll change the thread title in case anyone else searches for it in the future and if info on other types of diff appear. Anyone got an open diff, Quaife, Tran-X, 3J or other unit they can care to weigh and add to the list?

Does anyone know the above, please, to save me yanking out my diff just to put it on the bathroom scales? I had a look in the archives but couldn't find any concrete figures. I did hear that ZFs were quite heavy, but not sure by how much and relative to what other sorts of diff.

I agree with Richard. I run Ultralite 2s all round on a track-only shed, so no handbrake at the back. The standard brakes (with the right pads) were fine. But a weight saving of 2.5kgs each side at the front and about 1kg each side at the rear is my main reason for swapping. I also use the same £12 standard 232mm discs all round, which also means less rotational mass compared to the 260mm Hi Spec offering and kinder on the pocket. Finally, having the same pad shape front and rear meant that I can swap pads around to adjust the balance, although I have now settled on 1144s all round, which, at £40 a set, I don't mind if I get through half a dozen sets a year.

OK cool. I'll let you thrash it out with Gerry and, one way or another, I'll drop in and see you on Monday 28th, maybe about lunchtime or so.

Do you have an R300 on roller barrels? If so, there may not be a ball valve in the inlet manifold. For Jenveys at least, it's just a normal spout that is fitted by the end user after they are supplied.

Simon, Gerry; if you need the chainsaw moving between Suffolk and Hampshire, I'm heading down to Beaulieu for a wedding just after Christmas and can cart it down with me, as I'll be right past Fleet on the M3, if that helps at all?

It's also having a lovely exhaust being crafted for it right now.

W77 CAT used to belong to a local club member near Colchester. It was dark green with a white stripe and had staggered anthracites on it last time I saw it a few years ago. Great little car and great memories as I passengered in it for my first ever handful of laps around Spa back in 2011. Doesn't help you find out the current owner though! Sorry.

In the post now, Simon. Back on topic, for what it's worth, I was advised not to both with a drain plug in my Pace dry sump pan. Like Martyn says, the oil scavenge pickup(s) can be removed to drain what little oil there is probably left in the pan during an oil change and I was thinking of spinning the pump by hand to suck everything out of the sump.

Hmm... forum email notifications aren't working for me, otherwise I would have replied sooner. I'll chuck it in the post to you first thing tomorrow, Mr. Parker. Just give us a drink.

Darren, did I read somewhere that someone has used a Ford diff filler plug as the drain plug in a dry sump pan? If so, I have one spare that I can send back with the injectors, when they are done.

You may be able to read the markings on the metal tag attached to one of the bolts holding the back plate of the diff on. However, that doesn't mean that someone hasn't had a fiddle with the insides before you got it.

I have a set of the above for sale, pulled straight out of my previous 200bhp engine, which was based on an MG TF VVC 160 motor. They went into the (non-solvent-based) parts washer for a soak and I've given them some elbow grease today to finish them off. I left them to air-dry after I removed them from the parts washer, which explains some of the tiny traces of stainage. They have not been left at the bottom of the sea, honest. Rings have been removed, as have the shells, so you'll need replacements, of course. I've left the liners matched to the pistons, not that it matters too much, as you'll be honing the bores so that the new rings can bed in properly, right? The rods are of the dual-tang flavour. Mmm. Tangfastic. I can't see any markings on the liners, so I would assume that they are OEM. Pictures of varying quality are in my Dropbox: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/0l6t1d1novhobdq/AACUAmohrTZX8Re8_fXjP-4Sa?dl=0 Asking price is £150 to include insured delivery. If you fancy a drive over to Suffolk for a cuppa, some biscuits and to pick up the bits in person, treat yourself to a discount of 1/6th. That's £25 off, math heads.

This thread is going proper off-topic, but here goes... As fun as I think a 6-speed box is, every extra gear requires time over a 5-speed box. I know that trackdays aren't for timing though. But considering piling into a big braking zone from big speeds into a hairpin and having to drop 3 or even 4 gears. My brain and limbs can't cope with heeling and toeing my way that far down the box and I don't really like block-changing. The 6-speeder was designed for the old 1.4SS K-series to keep it on the boil. I spoke to one of the engineers who designed the Mazda 'box fitment and, as shown by the ratios above, they are much more suitable compared to the old Sierra box with a silly short 3.65 1st and even the V6 3.36 1st isn't that much more cop. I use this gearing calculator tool: http://www.gearboxman.co.uk/inforatios.html Well, I used to use it when I was perving over aftermarket Type 9 gear clusters, but I've now made my choice for the use my car gets and am sticking firmly with it.

BMTR is the Brum-based company you are thinking of, Simon.

This is an interesting thread. Following inspection by Bruce/Arch, what sort of issues can cause a chassis to be deemed beyond economical repair? Too many upgrades boxes ticked, damaged/bent tubes, tonnes of rust, lack of powder coat or protection...? I'd love to get this done and have a trackday-specific chassis with bare ally bodywork to shave some kilos and save a few £££ on the rebuild costs.

Still got these bits for sale.

There is also a bolt going backwards through from the cambelt cover side into the water pump, near the top.

I want to say 41-48 nm for the exhaust manifold nuts, but I've never bothered and just hulked them down. Some exhaust systems are easier to get torque wrenches and tools around of course. The exhaust gasket should be a multi-layer steel job. I've reused mine loads of times with no issues, but I await being shot down in flames and will say fit a new one as they are cheap. No goo required, just clean up the head and primaries faces.

I can't give a fair back-to-back comparison as I was running with battered standard engine mounts and then changed engines as well as a whole heap of stuff that affected the NVH characteristics of the install, including the VT mounts. Suffice to say, I'm much happier using them than the standard rubbers that are derived from a Jaguar bumper mount or something archaic like that. Plus I've used their suspension bushes in the past and currently run one of their engine mounts on the daily bus, which I'm totally happy with; better control of engine movement without shaking the glasses off my face and upsetting passengers or the 2-year-old bloke. I don't think anyone else makes uprated Caterham engine mounts either? There may be a gearbox mount available with a higher Shore rating I seem to remember. Phil and his team will be able to explain the technical jargon a million times better than I can on a forum.

One on Pistonheads. Grab it quick, before someone else nabs it: http://www.pistonheads.com/classifieds/parts-and-plates/parts-and-accessories/caterham/clutch-gaitor/4987285

Hi Antonio. It might be worth speaking to a local to me club member Gerry (2GBR, http://www.lotus7.club/users/2gbr) about this. I think Arch modified his race chassis so that the third (?) fixing bolt on the Sierra diff can be used to hang it on the car, instead of the usual two fixings. Something like that anyway!