Mankee
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Everything posted by Mankee
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It's a bigger tube than standard, with sealed UJs and also lightened as well as balanced. It's the same unit as used in R600s (now 620Rs I suppose), EXCEPT Caterham don't have them lightened. Doesn't make sense to not spend a little extra on lightening the prop on an expensive motor. Retail price is £220+delivery+VAT. Weight is 5.1kgs compared to 3.8kgs of my outgoing prop but I wanted strength and little/no maintenance over everything else. You've got to make sure the diff and gearbox are perfectly centred though, as the bigger UJs are FT (not the Financial Times) in the transmission tunnel. http://www.mankee.plus.com/Props.jpg
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Doh! We neglected to mention that the prop has to come out towards the back of the car. Depending on your location in the country, it might also be worth speaking to Phil at Road and Race in Sevenoaks, Kent about the diff, if he does the BMW diffs as well. Good luck!
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It's easy if you have two instances of Emerald open on two screens/computers. Oh look, I've got two laptops in front of me that run the Emerald software. Let me know if you need a hand, as it'll be a good distraction from actually doing some work, which is what I should be doing...
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It might be a case of copying the numbers over from the different pages by hand, as *.map files from K3/K6 ECUs have multiple maps and some other functions, while *.fig files contain only single maps and are flat files you can read simply using Notepad.
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Is it a Sierra diff or a BMW?
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Bailey Morris make a lot of the props for Caterham themselves as well as plenty of racers. I would highly recommend having a word with them about your issue, which may or may not be related to the prop. I bought a new top-spec prop from them just a few weeks ago and am seriously impressed with their work and customer service. Let me know if you need an email address for the chap I've been dealing with. If changing the gearbox rear seal hasn't fixed the leak, I wonder if the front of the prop is damaged and chewing up seals?
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Been speaking to Dave and Ian at JJC and they might be able to sort out a bulk buy of the stuff for us at £9.14+VAT per bag. I think I need five bags to be safe with a 24" long by 7" diameter Powerspeed silencer (unless someone can advise me otherwise?). I've not yet asked on the quantity required or postage logistics (whether I have to get a tonne delivered to me to distribute or if they can individually post to each bulk buyer), but can I have a show of hands along with number of bags of those who are interested please. Get those noisy cars quietened down ready for the trackday and race season!
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Local to me club member Robert Forsdike with an S/C'd CSR260 has been getting his cranked keyed recently. I can't remember who he plumped for in the end, but we have a few Ford specialists here in Raceco-land. Well, it was Raceo-land before Ammo called it a day! Might be worth dropping Robert a line and ask him on his thoughts. http://www.lotus7.club/users/rff
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Thread updated with some more stuff. -
Hello Chris. Long time no see/speak and shame to see you selling your beautiful R400. A location would help prospective buyers; Haverhill, Suffolk, if I remember rightly? Good luck with the sale!
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You can run them with or without the anti-squeal shims. If you are missing them and want to fit them, a kit with the four shims, four pins and four split pins is about a tenner.
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Is it still using the standard internal K-series oil pump? My old wet sumped engine showed the same sort of readings, even after renewing the oil pump. Nothing was amiss when I stripped it down, but a new set of bearings would likely have helped with oil pressure when stinking hot.
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An alternative to Magnecor is Formula Power in London, who, amongst other things, make fat old 10mm leads: http://www.formulapower.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_116_2958_2962&products_id=3878
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I've just converted to EU3-style wasted spark now. So do you have two coil packs in the cam cover and two leads? First, check that the coil packs are right for a VVC head; they can be identified by a red boot, as opposed to black boot for non-VVC. And then for the two-lead set, something like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/180989336573 There should be plenty of online retailers or even DVA might supply them himself.
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Hello Si. Do you still use the early RXXX K-series ignition setup with a distributor on the end of the inlet cam? When I ran my old 200bhp engine using a distributor and VVC head, I cut-and-shut some new Lucas £20 VVC ignition leads by chopping them down to a suitable length and grafting the distributor ends on, retaining the longer VVC plug ends. They worked perfectly for years, lost zero power and no need for snazzy leads! However, if your current leads work fine, I'd be tempted to leave them alone. I think DVA has suggested that non-VVC Magnecor leads (and possibly some other brands) can have their spark plug connectors pulled through the boot more to work with VVC heads. Maybe your leads have had this treatment?
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Roll on the new primaries.
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The part numbers for the stat and housing are shown on this page: http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID000098 You only really need the one housing seal going into the block, as we have a rubber/silicone shoved onto the other end.
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If you can access the three bolts holding the two halves of the stat housing together, you will be able to split it in situ. And then the stat has a rubber sealing ring.
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Is your fan working?
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That's interesting to know, Matthew. Thanks for that, as it opens up the market fairly!
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Hi Ian. I think it's 1.71m. I'm sure I've seen someone mention that an SV won't fit on a Minno Max though.
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New prop is 5.1kgs. Doh! But it is built like a brick outhouse with upgraded and sealed UJs and a thicker tube, so it is going to take all the punishment that I'll ever be able to dish out. Cheers to Bailey Morris for amazing service.
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Price now dropped to £1500.
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Cheers, Charles! I no longer have a stat in the standard position, but didn't think to completely remove the bypass hose. Does air ever get trapped in the coolant rail takeoff when refilling the cooling system? Or is this not a problem once the water pump is churning everythig around?
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We like pictures. And questions. Are you going to run the rebuilt engine with the heater bypass hose removed and the stat and coolant rail takeoffs blanked again? Any advantage or disadvantage to doing this? Do all the racers go for the full-house 1300 series prop from Bailey and Morris, with all the bells and whistles? I can't wait to get mine through the post. Love the "prop-bot" outside the front! Is the revised gearbox mount to allow for the Mazda box fitment? Or different positioning of a K-series/Type 9? Or some other reasons?
