Mankee

Hi Gordon. I've got all of my thread adapters from LMA via JJC Race and Rally. However, I don't know if it works having a larger female thread than male. You might be able to drill and tap the oil filter takeoff for an M12x1.5 thread? It means taking it all apart and making sure no swarf gets into the oilways though. The full selection of LMA bits are below: http://www.lmaautoparts.com/products/Gauges___Gauge_Fittings/ It must be possible to carefully pick some bits to make things work out. Good luck!

That crimped on connector can be hacked off (as well as the one at the other end) and then you can just fit some normal 8mm fuel hose with a fuel hose clip. But it still doesn't solve your OCD problem of the hose pointing upwards and looping round!

Ian, just check the size of the rears. They are probably 20/54-13? I'll just prod someone in your direction as they may be after some in those sizes.

Nah, the monitors are active all day. I meant start off gently and just build up the revs until you get the "NOISE" board and then you know where you are safe.

It'll be alright. Just start *very* gently. My problem is that I can't seem to use this engine gently and it is rather vocal...

Not a problem at all! I'll have a/some laptops with me so can show you how it works. If the 21st goes as well as it did yesterday, I'll be sat around with the car back on the trailer and twiddling my thumbs from 10am onwards!

I bought this little data logger a few years ago for a bit of fun on trackdays, where live timing isn't allowed, so I just turn it on, hit the button, stick it in my pocket, drove around and looked at the data when I got home. I found it useful for working out if I and/or the car was getting quicker. But it's not a fully fledge Vbox system of course! Have also used it when just driving around on the roads normally and even walking around town. Can be used for all sorts of stuff, like mountain biking, skiiing, public road blatting, etc. I don't really need this gadget any more, so have decided to sell it. It's the slower 5Hz version, as opposed to 10Hz, but it is still adequate for the "casual" data logging enthusiast. It was about £130 new and comes with the box, case, unused velcro pad, manual, CD, USB cable, fag lighter power thingy, wrist strap and even the sticky film is still on the unit. The product's web page is here: http://www.qstarz.com/Products/GPS%20Products/BT-Q1000EX-F.htm And photos of it on my dining room table here: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/2lm1l6e333vazsw/AADd_fyugp7hSOz1IsaR3yhAa?dl=0 Asking price is £60 including delivery.

Without sound like a stuck record, call Redline. They'll likely have them on the shelf and it'll be with you the next day, a little cheaper from Caterham as well I think. A few of us are after some temp senders, so they may run out shortly!

Hey Les. Yes, sold, sent and installed now unfortunately. But I'll drop you a line when I get in tonight. I'm off trackdaying!

Bit late returning to the party. Hope you got the rest of the afternoon on track! It sounds like the angle drive is still in the box and held in by the top hat and circlip. Maybe the speedo cable just needs to be screwed back in?

As long as the seal is still there, you shouldn't get any leaks. When I de-speedo'd to strip some weight from the car, I removed the quill, top hat, circlip, angle drive and all the rest of it. No issues. You'll soon know if you've got a problem as you'll have a patch of smelly box oil on the floor!

Can you get a blunt chisel/screwdriver around the gearstick base somewhere to try and gently tap it round to break the rust? Assuming you have the Quaife-type rose-jointed type stick with the ally base and not the old Sierra-type thing, which normally just falls out.

Bailey Morris make the uprated prop. I ordered one from them last month. Great company to deal with and great product. I was told it's the same prop as a 620R and the R300 race cars. However, the Caterham-supplied item isn't lightened but mine is. Worth a chat with them.

I'm upgrading my suspension in a couple of weeks, so will have my old dampers for sale for probably peanuts, as I don't know how good or how old they actually are. They are the harder M1/M100 Bilsteins with adjustable platforms and are post-96 narrow front track length. I use them on my pre-96 chassis so some of the eyelets have been modified and/or swapped so that they fit the narrower chassis brackets. They can come with springs if you want them, not sure which poundage though, as I have a selection.

The WOSP starter does still need the spacer.

I first tried a new key to no avail. Thanks for confirming the problem, Roger.

I chased this exact fault around for AGES and it did my head right in. It'd normally manifest itself half way through a trackday when I lost most of the electrics. And then a pal casually said screw a very short screw into the end of the FIA key so that it makes better contact and bottoms out harder in the socket. Lo and behold, 5 years later, my bodged up key still works perfectly. I have a few spare red FIA keys if you want one to have a play around. I'll also send you a picture of my modified key if you like, as the description above may not make complete sense without seeing the modification.

He's just gone out in it right now, Neil!

I assumed exactly the same as you and wired out some of the redundant relays in the MFRU of my previous EU2 (coil/distributor/leads) install. And then ended up with no feed for the coil and no spark! Revilla (Andrew) and I were messing around mapping out the EU2 and EU3 MFRUs one time at band camp, so he may still have the one I helped do for the EU2 MFRU. This may help you or you might just do what I did and reinstate the MFRU and leave the rewire for another job.

Gary, if you are fitting the big metal VVC plenum and don't already have a VVC right-hand engine mount bracket that is lower than the standard bracket to clear the bonnet, Julian H may now have one spare: http://www.lotus7.club/forum/techtalk/jenvey-airbox-installation-problem-questions

It'll make neglible difference to the level and oil pickup. Caterham only supply one sort of bracket for the left-hand side of the engine. Just the right-hand side one was lower for the big plenum clearance.

I think I've got a spare working one somewhere, Roger, if you want to try it. Crank sensors normally work or they don't. As noted by Simon, there is a webpage somewhere (might have been Angus' or Myles') that described the distributor king lead interfering with the crank sensor signal and causing the misfire, if you run that ignition setup.

The Emerald isn't fussed about alternator output, save for giving a reading on the live data screen. Mine's an EU3-ish engine with Emerald running an EU2-ish loom and rat's nest wiring. Looks rubbish, works perfectly! What's your current alternator wiring like, Frank? I don't know how the EU3 charging system works, but I can only assume that, for a Denso-style alternator, you do the usual two smaller cables for the warning light and large cable for charging.

I worked on an EU3 R300 on roller barrels a few years back. It ran horrificly and only fired on two cylinders. I tried the usual plugs, leads and coil pack. Turns out an ignition driver had gone down in the MBE. It had to go back to SBD to get sorted.

Frank, isn't your Superlight an EU2? If so, fitting a Denso-style alternator is a simple(ish) job.