garybee

Is it just the thread size you need or the length also? I have a spare diff I can check if the former.

Yes, the inner joint just pushes into the diff' and is retained by a circlip. I just remove the hub and driveshaft complete. Usually just giving the driveshaft a good pull pops it out but you may not have a good enough connection. Just pry the end of the shaft out in that case.

No problem. No rush on my account, it's been sat in the roof of the garage for quite some time.

Happy to sell the stanchions on their own for half whatever Caterham want for a new pair. Probably best the rubber stays with the existing frame though (as it'll be a pain to separate) so will hang on to that.

I have a pair of stanchions and a screen (in silver) that I don't need. The screen is laminated but unheated glass. Pretty sure it has the rubber seal on it too. Are you interested in the lot or just the stanchions?

Potentially, but that assumes 100% efficiency and that all the power is being used to rotate the flywheel. You could have a starter pulling huge amps that is overcoming massive friction from a poorly machined pinion and misaligned pinion shaft.

It's important to confirm your test results.

Makes sense with small (power equipment) engines, particularly before winter. They don't have the flow rate required to clear small amounts of water from the float bowl.

I've done this a couple of times and don't remember it being a struggle. Slightly different though as I was fitting plain glass that had cost me about £20. I fitted the rubber to the glass first then the pair into the frame, used washing up liquid as lube. Be careful to keep the wooden packers evenly spaced around the glass. If you don't the stanchion/frame screws may contact the glass and crack it. I measured the depth prior to fitting the screws as I didn't want to risk it.

I think you're misunderstanding that sentence. They are referring to the torque of the 'road wheel' nuts, not the 'road' wheel nut torque.

I'd be checking that the floats/needles were successfully shutting off the feed from the pump.

I hadn't taken anything you'd said as negative criticism.

It's never good to berate someone from a position of ignorance.

The problem will be with the block, not the liners. New liners will end up at the same height once installed. It is possible to shim the liners to bring them back up to the correct height, How low are yours?

Usual suggestion, blast of easy start in the intake to rule out fueling issues. If it starts, you know it's not getting fuel. Also, need a bit of clarification on the OP. Did it not start immediately after refuelling or later on? Did it cut out before he refuelled?