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Mankee

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Everything posted by Mankee

  1. Mankee

    Diff

    Nail it down a fairly flat and straight road and see if you get one tyre fire/one wheel squeal or you paint a nice black number 11 up the road.
  2. SM25T's remote T-piece is bolted to the redundant boss(es) on the O/S engine mount.
  3. That's odd. They were more than happy to sell me some if I wanted them there and then. I wonder what's changed in the mean time. There was even a Tech Talk thread recently, which prompted me to call them up.
  4. New ones are still available direct from KN. They had a load in stock when I spoke to them a few weeks ago. £110+VAT each I think.
  5. Make sure you give it death on Tuesday.
  6. My ARDS instructor pal is Ipswich-based and we've got some good venues and public roads not too far away from us in this part of the world. Drop him a line as he loves going out in Caterhams, providing it isn't chucking it down with rain! http://www.safelyfast.co.uk/ I've got a PM session at the club's Dunsfold Handling Day that might be up for grabs as I may now have other commitments.
  7. Just going to tell a mate as he misses his 3.7 V8 A8 or A6 or whatever it was he had. He may or may not be in touch.
  8. No probs. Let me know if you need the contact email address for my dealer. Mintex dealer, that is.
  9. MDB1890s all round for me for my Hi-Spec UL2s. I'd guess that the UL2 rear non-handbrake and handbrake use the same pad shape. I didn't bother cutting off the insides of the pads. Rammed them in, abused them, love them.
  10. Paul: if you decide to do the mod after reading Ian's PDF copy of the Low Flying article, I've got a piece of pipe to replace the submarine without a take-off for the header tank pipe, as I've since changed to a different coolant circuit with a PRRT. Yours for FREEEEEEEEEE because it's just clogging up my garage.
  11. Where's that guru Richard Price when you need him?! Do you run the same size wheels and tyres front and rear or wider rears? It might be worth trying 1144s on the back as well. Better braking on the back may help with pedal modulation and "pull" the back end down during hard braking instead of pitching all the weight onto the nose and lifting the rear, so you get more grip and less lockup.
  12. A 96 chassis may or may not have the threaded bush in the chassis tube. Mine didn't. Used small, strong magnet, tape measure, drilled a pilot hole, opened it up, rooted around and... the bugger wasn't in there! Arch made me a bush to sit in the chassis tube and the silencer front bracket is nut and bolted through into the cabin. Not ideal if you are into cosmetics, but works perfect for me, as a Powerspeed system is awesome but quite heavy.
  13. There will be several opinions on this, depending who you talk to and what they use their car for. My opinion: I love 1144s and your method is what I do; plenty of hard applications from the off but without completely stopping the car. My car isn't road-legal, so I just stomp on the brakes (as long as no one is too close behind me) until they start to get green fade and stink, and then continue driving for a lap or so to let them cool before stopping completely. Stop worrying and just drive the thing!
  14. I saw Craig's name down on the list but didn't see C7 TOP. Was expecting one of his other Caterhams, otherwise I'd have gone over and said hello, in between fixing my car. Welcome back, Dave! What do you have now?
  15. Dammit, I saw your noisy car at Spa but didn't realise it was you as you flogged it a little while back!
  16. Hi Dave. No problems at all. You can use similar techniques when people bleed the standard Sierra rear calipers as fitted to a Caterham. I just raise the rear of the car as high as possible and use a Eezibleed pressure bleeder type thing. You could also unbolt the caliper partially or completely and swing it upwards so that the bleed nipples are much higher than normal. I didn't find the need to do that though. Just make sure you jam something between the pads so that you don't push the pistons out too far.
  17. I've got the non-handbraked 2-pot Ultralites. Sierra rear fitment, slapped straight on, but I did change the solid brake lines to braided, as the inlets are in a slightly different orientation to the standard Sierra rear caliper.
  18. They are anti-squeal shims and are optional. I don't bother using them myself. Some people use copper slip on the back and edges of the pad to try to reduce noise.
  19. If they are the "standard" Triumph Herald two-pots that use the MGB533 pad shape, the internet says 14.4mm thickness from new.
  20. I have literally just this evening replaced the regulator in my Denso alternator, after I fried it at Spa last week. It's a type 1 connector rather than a type 2 of your Brise ACR5021, but if you whip the heat shield off the back, you should be able to see a marking so you can get a replacement regulator. Mine was £16 from eBay. As yet untested as I've not nailed it back on the car.
  21. Get some Acoustafil-Boa and just ram it in until you are satisfied that it is efficiently packed, i.e. not too much, not too little. Like with everything, people seem to have varying results, but I'm happy with the stuff. I barely ran my engine up before getting its first static noise test done at Snetterton a few days later.
  22. The calipers look radially mounted. Presumably there is a bracket to which the caliper is bolted and that bracket is fixed to the upright? Can you unbolt it from there, like "traditional" Caterham-type calipers?
  23. TTV, based in Suffolk. They might or might not sell to the public, nudge nudge wink wink. http://ttvracing.com/ Give us a shout if you don't get any joy and I'll speak to someone for you. Think you can buy them through Demon Tweeks/JJC/etc.
  24. Would anyone have 14" or 17" Longacre mirror plus roll cage brackets that they want to sell me? I've left mine somewhere between Nürburg and Ipswich. Doh!
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