Johnty Lyons

Dave I know feck all about anything but isnt the starter and exhaust on different sides on your car and if so could heat be a contributing factor.

If you read all about the K Click i'll think you'll find that a spare solenoid is not going to stand you much good. The problem is a bit more complex than that.

here

Fwd mail. All, Got the following email from a friend of mine..What do you all think it is. I have zero experience with Zetec We have a problem with the Zetec 2l engine in it and I wonder if you've seen it before? Starting from rest, as you let the clutch out and start to press on the throttle, the engine hesitates. This results in the car lurching forward in a series of bounds. The only way to prevent this kangaroo effect is to race the motor as you let the clutch out, which, to say the least, is inelegant. We've had two people look at it, both thought it might be an air leak (whoever designed the partial flange on the throttle body on which the air intake assembly sits must have been drunk at the time) but it still does it. They also commented that the ECU, which typically has the engine idle at 1500 RPM, was designed for an automatic transmission with A/C. Makes no difference whether the engine is warm or not. Any thoughts? Let me know what you all think. Thanks in advance. Tony Vacarro LOONY

This of course is very true but then in an ideal world you would have two different skts of different types One power in and One power out one pre ign one post in fact probably more one to power sat nav one for autocom and one for two way radio. and there's still your mobile. 😬 and if you do Gome events you'll have an ign controlled fuse board cos you'll have your potty, flexi light and nav computer. It gets to be endless.I always meant to lift the scuttle on SAZ and redo the whole lot, never got round to it and never will now. Edited by - Johnty Lyons on 17 Aug 2012 21:35:42

Martin if you feel overwhelmed don't panic Electrics are not everyones cup o char. I'm at end of phone all weekend 02897542349

Ramp monkey just one word of warning the way you have it wired could if you have a lapse of memory leave you with a flat battery In an ideal world and power skt should be ign controlled That is to say wired exactly the way you have it BUT with the Pos broken through a relay switched by Ign.

Sorry Stu getting old mate and not thinking. JJ

Steve is correct there is absolutely no need to drill your lovely wings properly secured stuck on cycle wings will smash into pieces before they come unstuck the only wings I've ever had to restick on where factory glued on and an absolute disaster.

Can't understand your comment about the laminova bringing the temp down after a good thrash but not stopping it getting up there in first place what unearthly way had you it plumbed remember Steve my 240 BHP K had dry sump and laminova and even thrashing it in horrendous temps in new Mexico never had an oil temp problem plus a much quicker oil warm up Now I know I'm old and senile but would some intelligent being explain to me just how in any example an oil cooler is better that a Laminova Providing of course the rad is fit enough to loose all the heat.

Hard to tell Steve when I put my 1900k on the market I got asked if I had a full service history and who I took the car to in order to have work done. I as a result ignored prospective purchasers as more trouble than they would be worth. In my case I felt anyone buying a balls out 1900 k who asked those questions had no idea what they where getting into.

Bad earth connection is my bet. Take off all cabels clean connectors with emery and refix and tighten well.

It's historical the earlier cars used shorter dampers mounted through the tube there where many of these tubes in stock at Arch when the suspension w as changed to longer dampers so the existing tubes where modified by welding a small tube underneath . When these started to peel away a further mod was made by adding strengthening gussets.

Well done that man. *thumbup*

mmmmm. Must tell Melvin he texted me to accuse me of cruelty to poor old X flows. 😬 😬 😬 😬

Fecking big screwdriver and a good dose of brute force and ignorance 😬

Stu that's fine if your taking them off the car not so easy for Myles as he didn't think about that at time and they are now off in one piece Mules try using a strap like Stu suggests to a bench leg or something that you can ratchet solid to then hit primaries away using a leather/ rubber mallett. JJ

There is nothing more exciting for an engine builder never mind an owner than sitting on the back of a Caterham weighing it down on the rollers for its first mapping session with a brand new engine with Zero miles on the clock Oh and I've stood in delivery suite 5 times 😬 😬 😬

It's a pre engaged starter so bendix should engage with ring gear before motor contacts close to turn starter over .One of two things depending on age of car and wear bendix may be sticky ( can get covered in dust from clutch) so remove starter and examine bendix it should be clean and dry Do Not lubricate road to grief. With starter out examine teeth on bendix if not sharp replace but examine through starter hole or on other side of engine where there is a handy gap the teeth on ring gear. If either are fecked you need to replace ring gear is a big job at they are like hens teeth.

Yep R500 lightweight same as on my 1900.

To be fair Arnie Stu was under duress with no correct map. Otherwise I would concurr with you All the engines I built where thrashed mercilessly as soon as temp was reached with excellent results. But still on here there are dimwits who insist on crazy running in techniques. Obviously little or zero confidence in their ability to build an engine.

1st one is K Caterham one is duratec

Yes the feed side is open Cct but the phase side is commoned at output from sw So 12v pos from brake light switch goes to one contact on the twin filament rear bulb then to holder which we are saying has lost its earth connection so returns wrong way through sie light filament thence to side light Cct wiring and thence to front side lights where it finds it's earth Simple. JJ

A bad earth at rear will certainly cause it. The current can't get to earth so it flows back throught the other filament and goes to earth in reverse fashion at front earth point. Simple my man seen it many times.

I've had to restick a couple of Caterham factory stuck onesIts a case of the 7 Ps IMHO Once properly stuck they are there for life