Johnty Lyons

Mineral again and change to synth night befor track day. JJ

Forgot to mention before depriving your passenger of leg room and butchering your footwell why not fit tank in front of engine between rad and timing cover?. JJ

I see no need for an Apollo with any dry sump install Any tank will have a perf plate near top for oil to drain through and deaeriate Also by time oil gets to bottom of tank and outlet any bubbles will have risen to surface. It does however mean that the taller a DS tank is the better the quantity of oil out the bottom Mine holds 7.5 ltrs JJ

I'd prefer to get hoses made up with a plastic protective sheath rather than using the plain SS braids which I'm sure will destoy the dedion tube in time! Ah now you tell me I fitted SS braided lines to my de dion 10yrs ago and had to replace it around 5 yrs ago with broken shocker mounts If I'd known the problem was caused by the Damn braided lines I'd a saved myself a fortune. .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 😬 JJ

My posting was meant as a bit of fun. If I'd thought that it would have brought a response " Caterham are massively unhelpful" I'd a said nought I think comments like that on this forum are unnecessary. Don't flame me just my senile opinion.

Theres a difference Richy between Voltage Drop due to HR and PD 😬 Bit like the Lucas Theory of Smoke.

I find a handy souce of parts for the car is a Company Called Caterham they have huge stores in Dartford 😬 They even have an online store wher you can see the parts before you order them.here Edited by - Johnty Lyons on 11 Jul 2012 18:47:56

Getting to the bottom of the problem was done eons ago No point in reiventing the wheel. There is too much VD across the crappy contacts in the MFRU Thus the relay mod providing a direct feed to the solenoid. Further that is not the only problem The proximity of the Starter motor solenoid to the extreme heat of the headers degrades the solenoid and its wiring All conspiring to decreasing its effeciency, and making it more succeptable to VD. A new MFRU with new solenoid and replaced wiring solves the problem until time starts the cycle all over again Thus the Relay mod A HD relay will work down to around 9volts and with HD contacts will pass a decent Volt/Amp to the Solenoid so a 6mm wire from battery to it and down to solenoid will work wonders even if nothing else is replaced and the old Br/Rd wire that used to feed the solenoid now just feeds the Relay Plus of course the MFRU is not having to pass any appreciable current.The K click has been around for more yrs than your mate has had hot dinners. I wish him all the best in his endeavours.

Get a manual before you start stripping anything. It is important to have crank pistons in correct position befor you start. Otherwise go for it get a full top end set a cam locking tool and a new timing belt and your all set.

Your heat exchanger is being compromised on track either it can't get enough cold air through it to take away the heat going into it OR it's got plenty of air but not enough surface to take enough heat out. Either increase air flow or increase surface area(bigger rad).

Most cars now have headlights controlled by ign sw after all they by law are only supposed to be on when car is moving,also fog lights are only supposed to be used with dip beam so that's stat as well. It really pisses me off when folk park and sit in car with engine running and headlights on.

Adjuster is at full stiffness I think springs are soft thus trying to find original length and poundage

Has anyone any idea what Poundage the coil overs are on a Spax equipped Factory built 1986 Car Car seems to settle more than you'd expect when driver gets onboard.

On track the rapid fwd movement should render the fan irrelevant Are you sure your Rad core is completely clean /clear and able to pass all the air through it that it is presented with.If Oil /water temps are similar Laminova is a waste of time I suggest you also try a different gauge as if its a Caterham electric one its as much use as an ashtray on a motorbike.

Ring Anne on 02890813121 and ask her to check stock We are main NKG stockists and carry a vast stock What engine and what spec I use NKG in my 1900 K but not that one. Last time I asked Anne for stock she got them for me within 24hrs.

have to take issue with Charlie on this one. Hot rad on a K is NOT a sign that the thermostat is working. Only sign is when bottom hose gets hot. K stat is on return leg Charlie Conduction will heat rad long before stat opens.

There will be no huge current draw as your not pulling starting loads from the cell battery. Just fit two 25mm link cables with proper eyelet connections on end under the clamp bolts Will work the best. Ps I have a selection in stock if you want to give me length and eyelet hole size they come in 6,8,10,12. Edited by - Johnty Lyons on 30 May 2012 21:06:52

I sent my 33/303 and FM3 tuner back to Acoustical a number of yrs ago for a complete once over wasn't very expensive and well worth it. I presume they and my R50 transmission lines are still going strong with Mr Parker. Edited by - Johnty Lyons on 28 May 2012 18:29:01

At This point the temp. is between 30-35C*. I will need approx 10 miles of normal road speed to bring the temp. up to steady 86-88C*. Just where are you measuring that Temp and are you sure its the OIL Temp I can't believe that with only 10 miles of road driving and No laminova [even with one its a tall order] you have Oil temps [with 8ltr capacity] of 86-88 I seriously thing your dreaming. I run a dry sump with that capacity and a Laminove and struggle to get Oil Temp up to 60C even after 30 mins. Course I hav'nt checked your location You may be on the Equator. 😬

Ah yes Ian will we ever forget the MOAB Mud

Wot he said. 😬

Fitment of a Swirl pot is normall when converting from Carbs to injection It makes the process simpler. Feed the swirl with the LP pump and out of very top of swirl bleed back to tank then feed out of bottom of swirl via HP to inj rail with return from rail to other top connection on swirl. Of course sine your buying a new tank its all a bit pointless since you can buy an inj tank with Hp internal and just the two connections. seems the simpler option.

Yes and use any good synth Comma is popular.

I've had laminova in top hose of a K for 10 yrs no restrictor needed

It's an easy enough job jack up trailor remove wheel back off adjuster remove drums strip shoes and clean mechanism lubricate moving parts with coppaslip sparingly. Check cables if fitted with grease nipples apply gun if in doubt remove same to bench and pour diesel down between outer and inner until really loose then fill with light oil. I have to overhaul boat trailers all the time which are completely rusted up being in salt water.