Johnty Lyons

Should still be relayed,Use whatever Sw to feed relay coil fraction of an Amp and feed relay from battery with 4mm cable and take relay output to solenoid again 4 mm cable. Ign sw is irrelevant as its through a relay in MFRU anyway.

Yeah the K click is nought to do with Brise its the wiring going to it.

Change your diff ratio.

Any decent Antex iron is what you want with spare tips I would get two a big one for desoldering heat sinks and a small one for delicate I C work.

I've just read back a few posts and am alarmed, GET rid of Scotch locks they have no place near a Caterham disastrous we buggers never ever use them especially on solenoid cct they cant pass current. JJ

Roger is correct Connectors are very importand don't try and fit yourself if you havent right tool and you wont have cos its over 200 quid.

The brown Blue are lighting and fuse box feeds they take power away from starter Ignore replace the main big red cable from battery as its heat damaged and has a very high resistance giving you low voltage at battery. Plus new wire to solenoid from relay It will work.

Remember if they are lightweight alloys it could also be cracked rims I reckon on repairing cracks (irish roads) on at least one rim a year

Ian is correct although they are great at night they are not surface mount and scatter a lot of light sideways so pretty poor in sunlight.

Wheel size is not the issue, its the overall diameter of the tyre, as the width goes up (rear) if the profile stays the same the dia would increase , so to equal things up I came down a rim size. Overall therefore the wheel/tyre combo is same size front and back. Looks 100% IMHO.

I run 14 in front and 13 in rears but rears are 8 inch so with profile change diameter is same front and back

The heat of the water will have no effect on oil temp FWIW on a busy track day you oil could get well over 150 and in some cases up to nearly 200. Those of us running dry sumps where oil capacity could be over 7 ltrs quite often fit a laminova ( oil water heat exchanger) this can when oil is cold assist with more rapid warm up and later on works in reverse dumping excess oil heat into the water where it id dissipated by the Rad.

But its not a tin top and the cooling sys works arse about face with stat on return leg and you've increased cooling capacity from std. You also have a much more efficient air flow to your Rad than any tin top. Just try it.

It's a K with a feckin big alloy rad, the weather is feckin freezin and the wind chill is huge try driving hard down the road in a T shirt and see how you feel. It's overcooling once your pushing on in this weather, the water coming into botom of engine is too cold the stat is totally confused and wants to go to Florida for a holiday. Cut out a lump of card and block off bottom 1/3 to 1/2 of rad go for a drive and se what happens I always run in winter with bottom of rad closed off. The Thermal shock isn't doing your engine much good either. Been driving a K for 16 yrs works for me

I must admit to being totally confused I've driven a K originally 1600 then 1800 now 1900 for 16 yrs the cooling set up is completely std No hole in stat no remote stat and despite 1000s of miles of touring in horrendous temps from well below freezing to off scale at other end I've Never had a cooling problem, you guys are just paranoid.