Johnty Lyons
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Everything posted by Johnty Lyons
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Just use the std wiring diagram and leave out the bits your not using.
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Wire nipped where it comes into back of light.
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Didnt get the reg as you burbled through the sq and down the one way on Sun afternoon.
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I miss triple C... He still writes excellent stuff in Track Driver
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How does a fault in the alternator diode pack cause 14.4V on the output and not extinguish the warning light? Does the lead to the light not come from the point that you're measuring the output voltage? Seperate Diode NOT the main rectifier diode pack catches a few folk out.
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I used den braven it's used to bond winches to decks. The secret is to abrade the underside of the wing well and encapsulate the stay in the adhesive. Mine have been on for nearly 10yrs now and you could lift the front of the car with them. No need to spoil your wings by putting bolts through them.
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Did offer to rewire it at a time My boy still think it need done.
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As long as its the same tyres on same axle they will give you no bother
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coolant should be at MIN mark when engine is cold and car level the max mark when fully up to temp. It's a starnge fact but water expands as it heats up.
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Kev the ball just screws onto the end of the bar Popped into the cup and the boot held with two tiny ty-wraps Bugger to get in No idea how it popped out.
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Copper mallett and 8Bells possibly 8+ I've even has to resort to a Steel lump hammer
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Sticking piston
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I'm not sure tbird isnt right Myles the ECU will die very suddenly when the electronics stop working they are very voltage sensitive Jump start her again and attach a digital meter and watch the V reading whilst on tickover when the fan cuts in.
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Just give Bruce a ring He built the car and will know exactly what is required A good friend went through this recently and bought what he was told by seller was the correct item for his Car In the end Bruce sorted it perfectly and he wasn't that expensive Face to face and Cash works best.
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Tyre singing on road check your alignment David
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It's not charging get your alternator checked You need 14.3 to crarge a 12V Battery.
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Wow the Luxury of an audible indicator bleeper Conversation in my cockpit is impossible without an intercom The Induction bark is so Brutal 😬
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Fully loosen the clamp in front of the silencer, undo the nut on the bobbin behind the silencer. Lift the silencer off the bobbin, twist the exhaust can from side to side whilst sliding it backwards.
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Its just a number of relays in one box you can replace it with separate relays and to be honest on a Duratec conversion you are probably as well to do so.
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Well known problem Firstly check connection on sender corroded or loose If that is clean and tight replace sender.
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In the last 15 yrs I've toured more miles than you've dreamed off Inc Trans USA, and most of Europe. I have never carried a spare wheel. and never needed it. Just cut the carrier off and sell the spare on BC 😬 😬 😬 😬 😬 😬 😬 😬
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Yeah Yeah Yeah, Duraboot would have been 5min job But you always do yer own thing. Well done anyway. Rotty.
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as the top of it is connected to the ign-switched 12V and the bottom to the "starter" cct of the alternator. It uses this supply to initiate the field windings (IIRC). So please explain since you have stated it yourself how the field windings are getting excited with a diode in place as Your posting confuses me. *confused*
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Check the earth connnections and the big red connection on the starter where you got the firework display.
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covered in detail last week S3 fog light sw needs modded MOT Fail HERE Edited by - Johnty Lyons on 15 Mar 2012 20:18:16