Johnty Lyons
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Everything posted by Johnty Lyons
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Jacking points - for the regular engine removers
Johnty Lyons replied to CharlesElliott's topic in TechTalk
The tubes running across the front of the car are all fitted in compression to hold the two sides of the chassis apart in exactly the correct position. There are a mumber of diaganol braces between the top and bottom chassis rails to give them rigidity it is to the lower offside rail that the towing eye is fitted. Jacking under the cruciform has a tendancy to try and flex those thin tubes and will eventually cause cracking where they are welded/brazed ( depends on age of car) as they are NOT strong enough to carry the full weight of car and engine. Probably not easy to follow but look at a chassis diagram on Caterhams web sit and it should be clear. WTF the club has them listed on ite FAQ page for I have no idea BUT they are Wrong. -
Jacking points - for the regular engine removers
Johnty Lyons replied to CharlesElliott's topic in TechTalk
The original build manual from Caterham with my 97 Series3 warns you NOT to jack the front of the car under the cruiciform.I understand that has always been the position and the car is supposed to be lifted by jacking under the towing eye. -
No offence taken and as you'll discover on here my bark is 1000 times worse than my bite. I've just been around far too long, most sensible folk ignore me. 😬 😬 😬
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Somewhere between 12 and 13 Get a grip man the difference between a fully charged and a completly flat battery is in those figures we are looking for .1 of a volt here. And WTF is a basic battery tester you need a good calibrated digital meter. It totall amazes me when you ask for help and your given info that folk dont read what was written, but still faff around. Go back and read all the posts on this thread, then do some basic tests to confirm the health of you battery. Sometimes at my age I despair of folks on these forums. And yes I'm outspoken and a crotchety old git. But hey I'll not be around much longer so I don't GAF.
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Eu2 or eu3 if eu2 it will be the metal infill strip over the plugs, has ledmany an owner a merry dance. 😬
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12v under those conditions is crap battery is knackered. Should be 12.5 min.Better at 12.7 Oh and don't think .5 is irrelevant it's massive in Battery terms. At 12v its only 25% charged. Johnty State of Charge Specific Gravity Voltage 12V 6V 100%. 1.265 12.7 6.3 75% 1.225 12.4 6.2 50%. 1.190 12.2 6.1 25% 1.155 12.0 6.0 Discharged 1.120 11.9 6.0 Edited by - Johnty Lyons on 24 Oct 2012 18:59:32
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You dont want grease anywhere near your starter bendix either. Each time the clutch engages/disengages there is a certain amount of dust given off from driven plate, this will stick to and mix with any grease on the bendix gumming the whole assy up. The bendix should be scrupiously clean (washes in white spirit) and should snap back and fwd under its internal spring. Greasing it is a very common mistake which I have seen on many cars with starter problems.
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You should be OK but a word of caution most ECUs supply a ground connection for their various switching functions. So be careful what you connect where is as I suspect your current switching is in the live leg.
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Been an AutoSpark for over 40 yrs. Forget all your rules and laws and don't worry about the Ohms,Volts or Amps. Just keep the smoke in the cct cos once it escapes yer fecked. 😬
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Arnie surely that is just what the relay mod does switches a direct feed from battery to starter cutting out everything else?
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Thet is one seriously overprised piece of ****.
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If your car usesthe Alt to Starter then to battery system the 8mm is fine for the Alt - Starter bridge. However I woul up the Starter- Batt cabel to. 12mm. JJ
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well it would be fantastic if an ex VX owner could solve a problem that has bugged us all for many years I'll watch this space in anticipation 😬 😬
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Also has anyone tried replacing the feed for the starter relay in the MFRU with a direct battery feed, so the soleniod power is not drawn along a meandering course through the entire loom?? Arnie what you are describing is the well known Relay mod for the infamous K Click Welcome to the world of Ks Oh and search the archives it been discussed more times that youve had hot dinners.
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My Deck shoes have Red and Green flashes on the heels for Port and Starboard
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Arnie Stu is right get the bellhousing adj on cabel correct RB against pressure plate , then adj pedal box end to get your pedal height right. I can't for life of me understsnd whats gone wrong in your car. Normally its a doddle I always carry a spre clutch cabel in the boot and the spanners necessary to change it Last time was in centre on London on a roundabout I just pushed car on pavement and swopped it in 10mins Pedal adj and all.
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Arnie something is not right You can adjust the cabel at both ends and need to do that you should never need 4" of travel to disengage a K clutch The Fork should be sitting holding the release bearing against the pressure plate an Inch of movement shoul clear the driven plate.
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Yeah dont be pessamistic All we have to do is get the Smoke back into the cct and everything will work again As youve found out to your cost following the Joseph Lucas theory of smoke one it escapes the ccts dead. Its an easy fix. 😬
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Yep just relay it so as the flash sw is only switching the relay and the feed to relay is fused. Its an easy fix as EFA states cut away all old loom tape expose wiring and replace everything burnt [inc switches etc.]
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No No No its a definate medical complaint sets in just around the 1yr of ownership time No cure I'm afraid
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As a BMW driver and a se7en owner the only comparison is they are both rear wheel drive.there is NO other handling comparison and Ive driven every sort of BM and se7en in the past 20 yrs.
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If its CLICKING the answer is in the sound It's the K series Click Searck the archives its the most documented problem in Tech Talk But for dear sake dont start it again on here its been done to death yr in yr out 😬 😬 Oh and yess I drive a K series and have done for past 15 yrs
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Quit fussin get out and drive it The K and all supporting parts will be around for a very long time furthermore a lot of the stuff you mention will be in the bin when you Contract Upgradeitus It afflicts all se7en owners sooner or later 😬
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Redline MTL.
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I know of at least two major manufacturers who if you take your car two any of their dealers with a running fault will take a sample of your fuel and if it's found not to have the correct additives ( supermarket ) will disclaim all warranty and replace all fuel components ( were talking injection here) and present you with a very large bill. Hint 1 German 1 French. Based on that we refuse to use supermarket fuel in our three tintops and our se7en. Just my own idea each to his own.