Q Catcher

#10 Mark W - thank you, that may prove very helpful. Cheers #11 Er ... as in post #1, the car did 400 miles post-IVA.

Thank you for a really good thread. My car is firmly a road car, so my settings are nothing like yours, but I appreciate the detail and will add it to my little stock of knowledge, as I'm rather into chassis/suspension settings. Cheers, and, indeed, enjoy!

So ... the car went to the dealer this week. They swapped the ECU for one off one of their cars, and it ran perfectly. So they have submitted a warranty claim to CC for a new ECU - any guesses as to how long this will take? Will my friend be off the road for weeks? For that matter, does anyone know who the ECU maker is and where they're based?

Pretty much everybody is out of stock, I'm afraid. Starcom seem to have ceased trading ... their distributors seem to have sold out ... motorcyclists have switched over to using Bluetooth kit from Sena ... etc. If you're determined, you can get your hands on motorcycle earpieces and microphones and you might be able to fit those into ear defenders, but you'll need to sort out connectors, etc. Good luck!

#7 - thanks, Chris, that kinda gives us some comfort; #6 - and no, we haven't unbolted the ECU, because the owner doesn't want to prejudice a possible warranty claim.

Thanks for all those details. The pin map fits with our experience - how odd to group three of the ignition signals next to each other at one end and the fourth one some distance away - but to answer the question, we did a slightly more basic version of your SBD Motorsport instructions, sussed out which pin should have been giving a signal for cylinder 1, i.e. pin 36 - and could not detect a signal from it.

Thanks - done those, albeit with multimeters and Tachostrobe, as we don't have an oscilloscope.

Superb idea. I'll send you an email.

I've been helping a friend with a recently-built Duratec 360R. Cylinder 1 won't run. Potted history: When very (very) first fired up, at the pre-IVA check, cylinder 1 didn't run. The mechanic fiddled with the wiring/coils/something (sadly, he now can't remember) and it stumbled into life. The car ran well for over 400 miles. A few days ago, cylinder 1 stopped running. We've tried pretty much everything: there's fuel but no spark. We've swapped plugs, coil packs (COP) and ignition loom. We've checked continuity on each section of loom and at every connector (scrutinised for corrosion - none) and have proven continuity all the way from the ECU connector to the coil pack (it's a brown/white wire for signal and white/purple for 'earth'). We've checked for signal using a Tachostrobe - there's no signal on cylinder 1, but there is on the others, ie the Tachostrobe is working. The only thing we can now think of is the ECU. Has anyone else got experience of this? (We haven't driven the car. Only run it for a few seconds after each component change. Didn't want to damage the cat, but in any case, there was usually no spark plug in the hole, so we know damn' well there's fuel, as it loudly hits us in the face ...)

But thank you kindly to Probe2, from whom I am purchasing a pair of early-style headsets.

Alas, Chainspeed don't have any either. (Sheesh, Chainspeed are hard to get hold of too ...) Apparently, they're trying to develop some from an alternative source of supply, but they probably won't be 13mm DIN, so not ideal anyway.

Brilliant, thank you!

^ Great info, thank you.

Anyone know which are the correct NGK plugs for the current Duratec 2.0 as fitted in the 360R? Thanks

PS If you can get me an Autocom boom mic and speaker kit, then I'd be keen to follow your suggestion.