Jump to content
Click here if you are having website access problems ×

CharlesElliott

Account Inactive
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    4,227

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by CharlesElliott

  1. CharlesElliott
    Hi - mount it on the front of the steering rack bridge, pointing downwards. From the Caterham Graduates info: The REQUIRED mounting position is the standard position for all Caterham race cars: On the chassis member which supports the steering rack. Mount it in FRONT of the steering rack and in the centre. You can drill a couple of holes in the rack mount, or you could probably just hold it with cable ties.
  2. CharlesElliott
    You probably already have 13" wingstays. It's the race ones you want.
  3. CharlesElliott
    The tank does drain through the sump somewhat, but there will probably be another 0.5l left in there. Many people do oil changes without draining the Apollo specifically, so I wouldn't worry. It's quite common for the drain plug in the Apollo to leak, so at least by leaving it alone you don't have that problem. Initial fill of 6.5l is probably OK....when you say 'level looks ok but hard to tell with engine running', what do you mean? Checking level with engine running is the way you should do it. If you have overfilled it, then you need to undo the sump plug, let some oil out, and do it back up.
  4. CharlesElliott
    I don't think it is imperial, I think it is (from memory) 3.5mm.
  5. CharlesElliott
    Given the year (the change was in 2007), your chassis is almost certainly Arch made and imperial. The easy way to recognise metric vs imperial is to look at the lower horizontal chassis tube in the rear wheel arch, the one that the rear ARB is bolted to. If it's round for the full length, it's imperial, if it's square halfway, then changes to round, it's metric. Assuming your chassis is imperial, it will have AMXX stamped on the seatbelt mounting boss, where AM is Arch Motors and XX is the jig number used (bet it is 02).
  6. CharlesElliott
    I use P clips.
  7. CharlesElliott
    Sorry Andy, but we didn't have any more of the 'old' Caterham Motorsport ones.
  8. CharlesElliott
    I may be unique in having bought wings from both these suppliers - but only rear wings. Vicfibretech I thought were very heavy, the mounting flange was very small and in the end, I didn't even fit them. Kitcarbitz were light and of ok quality - fine for a race car but almost certainly not road car standard. Front wings are are much simpler. I would also recommend YC Plastics who make nice ABS plastic front wings.
  9. CharlesElliott
    To replace race crash damaged items As the title really, looking for a standard S3 injection fuel tank and a standard S3 steering rack. I'm based in Weybridge, Surrey, but can also try to arrange collections from other areas of the country.... Charles
  10. CharlesElliott
    The AM number is the frame number (or the Arch Motors chassis reference number) - it's normally stamped on the rear seatbelt turret, along with the jig number that the chassis was built on.
  11. CharlesElliott
    Plugs, coils and the springs that connect the coils to the plug tops would be my first port of call.
  12. CharlesElliott
    Sometimes the male fitting gets a bit stuck on the pipe and isn't right at the end against the flare.
  13. CharlesElliott
    The diff behaviour you describe is pretty normal with an open (normal) diff.
  14. CharlesElliott
    I have one of these (although not 7dayshop branded). It is very good.
  15. CharlesElliott
    Hi Paul Polish will make them look better, but that will show up the rest of the car! You could perhaps use Armorfend, but that's not helpful if they are already there. However, it's a race car and people like/expect that sort of patina. Charles
  16. CharlesElliott
    We might have some Andy (if you mean the 'old' Caterham Motorsport logo). If you can remind me via email, I will try and remember to look when we are at the next race event.
  17. CharlesElliott
    Yes The build manual suggest 10cm length as a 'reasonable' and known starting point.
  18. CharlesElliott
    Steve is sort of right, but what you actually want to do is adjust the droplinks so that they click straight into the ARB without tension with you sitting in the car. That makes it a bit harder....
  19. CharlesElliott
    Roger's just drawn my attention to this thread. Yes, I have a drawing (in DXF format and others) of the adaptor that we had made up, which was originally based on a drawing kindly given to me by Simon at Meteor Motorsport. The one I drew has smaller overall dimensions and a number of holes to allow adjustments depending on where you sit in relation to the HANS (i.e. how close you need the belt mountings to be together). It is designed to be made in 4mm steel plate, preferably powder coated.
  20. CharlesElliott
    Speedo sensor cable is my bet.
  21. CharlesElliott
    There are only three ways for extra air to get in - via the butterfly, via the IACV or a leak. Try disconnecting the IACV and see if the revs drop.
  22. CharlesElliott
    CBS were helpful, but not definitive: Both our senders are three wire versions. It could be that it is just an earth that is additional. the one thing you would need to find out is the pulses per revolution of the caterham one. Ours give 6 pulses per revolution.
  23. CharlesElliott
    Undo the locknuts and use the flats on the steering arms (might be under the gaiter) to adjust. Best way to measure is to string the car using fishing line; then you can measure each side's toe independently.
  24. CharlesElliott
    It could freeze or cause corrosion. Probably less of an issue in an aluminium engine.
  25. CharlesElliott
    Won't any two have 415V between them?
×
×
  • Create New...