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CharlesElliott

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Everything posted by CharlesElliott

  1. CharlesElliott
    Some years ago I scanned a lot of the part pack sheets to make it easier to identify what is what when you are reading the build guide and it says 'secure with item 1 from pack ZAX03'. During my rebuild I've discovered more packs that I hadn't emptied and therefore hadn't scanned, so will start adding them. The current version that includes ZAX03 (diff) is here.
  2. CharlesElliott
    Some of the ACES are modified already for EU3. If it was working before, then you should be OK.
  3. CharlesElliott
    Agree with washers between rail and seat, but if you add too many you will need to fabricate a wedge shape.
  4. CharlesElliott
    The shielded wire is the RPM signal. It's shielded because it is a high frequency signal - having said that, what you describe should work fine.
  5. CharlesElliott
    I've finished routing the loom, brake lines, extinguisher lines/pull and fuel pump to rail on my rebuild, but am not sure how the fuel return line runs. Obviously it starts on the nearside of the car where it enters the tank, and it ends up on the offside against the chassis rail. My question is how it is routed from tank to front - which side of the tunnel it starts on, when it cross if it does etc. Pictures would be ideal!
  6. CharlesElliott
    I just had my engine rebuilt (incl crank and pistons) I got quite specific instructions about filling it with oil given the Apollo. Then the advice was to warm it up, and out onto the circuit. Seems about right to me!
  7. CharlesElliott
    I know that Namrick don't do Grade 8 (at least, not on their website). I use Margnor for those that I care about, like the front suspension. To be honest, I wouldn't be too worried about them for the mount. My fastener pack (2003) came with capheads and so that's what I've always used. I don't know why, but in that situation where it goes into the mount tube a caphead just seems more appropriate, not sure why. I understand what you mean on the length and would also want to double check. Is the mount slightly more than 2in, as with no washer you should have at least 12mm showing? I just looked at the packs that Caterham are currently selling for imperial, and they are 1/2" x 2.5".
  8. CharlesElliott
    I haven't measured mine as the car is in bits and the bolts aren't to hand, but everything I have says 2.5". Once you bolt it up and the spring washer compresses it should be fine. You didn't go with Grade 8 then? (nor caphead!)
  9. CharlesElliott
    1/2" x 2.5" caphead. Caterham do not explicitly call them out as Grade 8/10.9.
  10. CharlesElliott
    Clutch release bearing?
  11. CharlesElliott
    It's difficult to read the part number on the pictures, but it seems to correspond to the part number on Rimmer bros for a standard camshaft.
  12. CharlesElliott
    1. I don't think so but I don't take my Caterham on the road. 2. Do you mean the plate behind the seat headrest? 3. 20 degree. 4. It is quite likely that you will find the seat pushing your head forwards when wearing a helmet, especially with a HANS which adds another inch or two to the depth. Caterham specially commissioned their Tillet seat to be usable without a helmet whereas the true Tillet version (B6) has the headrest leaning further back. The seat may not be an issue for you, or you can tilt it back using spacers, or you can get a Simpson Hybrid which doesn't have that problem but is more expensive. Charles
  13. CharlesElliott
    Can't really go wrong with 2-2-2.
  14. CharlesElliott
    Sorry, John, you are right. More castor gives increased camber when turning the wheels.
  15. CharlesElliott
    Yes, the picture is 2-2-2. 0-4-0 pushes the lower wishbone forwards. On your picture, 0 washers on the far right (next to nut 7), 4 washers next to rear chassis mount (item 6), 0 washers next to mount 4, and then some additional washers on the very front under the spring washer to make it fit. If you do 0-4-0, you really want a 1/2" x 2 3/4" bolt (rather than 2 1/2" as standard) on the front mount to ensure enough threads in the boss are engaged.
  16. CharlesElliott
    Yes, like my car was!
  17. CharlesElliott
    If the only difference is the washers, then it is the castor that is affected. If you change the washers (and therefore castor), you would really need to re-check both the camber and the toe.
  18. CharlesElliott
    Arch have got my bent one (no V5 though.....)
  19. CharlesElliott
    You can buy an engine on eBay for £250 or whatever, but you still have to change the sump and ancillaries, still need to put in forged pistons (say £1000), so it's expensive to get a race engine in the first place - even if it is only a 1.6. Of course, following the spirit of race budgeting I have no idea how much it will cost and haven't asked - you only find that out once you have had all the work done and are committed. Exactly the same with my chassis; only asked Bruce to price it up when he rang to told me it was ready to collect
  20. CharlesElliott
    R clip and a split pin then!
  21. CharlesElliott
    Makes sense, thanks.
  22. CharlesElliott
    Some sort of automatic choke? (Only based on what it is connected to)
  23. CharlesElliott
    More pictures added.
  24. CharlesElliott
    Don't think Arch will make you a from scratch metric one (they definitely repair them though). Imperial....certainly.
  25. CharlesElliott
    My old rack wasn't repairable (shame it cost me £90 to find that out!) so I'm on the lookout for a standard rack again....
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