Expat

Thanks to energetic protests from the motorcycle community intercoms are now tolerated in France, but they must be fixed. A self tapper should suffice! Note there is nothing to stop you feeding music or other distractions into the system either.

More words of praise for both the products and the service of Just Add Lightness. I recently purchased a pair of rear light clusters for my 7. All I can say is that the result is "Brilliant" in every sense of the word. I almost feel sorry for anyone driving behind me, but at least "I didn't see you" is unlikely to be heard. If only dealing with other companies were as pleasant. I'm just waiting now for some front indicators and DRLs.

Glimpsed in Draguignan (Var, South of France) at about 12:30 today.. Highly polished Series 1, I think, All alu including nosecone. British Reg. Couldn't stop to chat, nowhere to park and in a one way street about 2 feet, (Sorry, I mean 60 cm), wider than the car. Would love confirmation of type. Have a good trip back to Blighty!

I built (assembled, it was much simpler in those days) my second Lotus 7 S2 in 1966. The back axle certainly didn't have a reinforcing plate. The dome shaped diff. cover developed the expected crack and the subsequent oil leak entailed changing the A frame to axle bushes every few months. So I sold it and bought something with "doors and a heater" to quote SWMBO (and we weren't even married then!). Who made the axle? Standard AFAIK. For a definitive answer ask John Watson.

A bit of a waste of time cos it ain't just the mirror. Everything in a Seven seems to reflect light! I try to avoid going out at night!

As a rule of thumb don't let the tank get less than 1/4 full. This is mainly to ensure that the fuel pump, which is usually cooled by fuel, does not overheat. Running out of fuel is NOT recommended! Fuel can be found on any motorway in France 24/24 seven days a week but it tends to be very expensive (but cheaper than in the UK!). The cheapest fuel is usually found in supermarkets (not actually 'in') but you know what I mean. There is a variation of about 15% so stick to supermarkets if you can. Most supermarkets have at least one pump which will take credit cards (including UK ones) at any time.

Do a search for - Duratec won't start - .and read all about it. I never found a definite cause of the problem, which sounds just like yours, but I suspect that cleaning the earth points, especially near the ECU, cured (?) it. In any case it seems to have gone away, but one can never tell with an intermittent non starter! Good luck.

Slowly beginning to understand castor and camber. Hopefully have found a garage to measure the existing setup and will take it from there depending on the results. Measurement of the chassis shows no evident twist or other deformation so the LH side maybe just habit on the part of whoever put it together. Did a search on "castor AND washers" and am now slightly less confused. One post suggested that a million different answers would be given to a request for the best possible setup , so I wont ask. However, another did say that different washer positions left and right could be found to make up for tolerances in the chassis build. We shall see.

Wow! I'm overwelmed by the quality and quantity of the response and the first thing I'll do tomorrow is call the vendor (Caterham Competition France). Second thing will be to get the geometry checked. One small point (probably caused by my stupidity), the Caterham drawing as shown below gives the setup for standard, narrow, track. This I have on the Left Hand side and would call 2-2-2 On the Right I have (reading number of washers Left to Right) 0-4-0 Is this correct? or have I totally misunderstood?

I have been the proud owner of a 2012 Superlight R300 for about six months. The front suspension is, of course, wide track. However I have just noticed that the lower LH wishbone is mounted (probably the original got bent) like a narrow track one. i.e. the washers are positioned as shown on page 65; fig 32 of the current (versiion 02/2015) assembly guide. Thje bolts holding the wishbone on look new too. My dilemma is should I: a) Leave well alone and do nothing ? b) Try to put the washers where CC say they should go and re-do the tracking etc.? The uprights seem to have been put together correctly although it's difficult to be sure until I can get underneath it. Very grateful for any advice.

Yes, Get them balanced, at least ar the front, the rears matter less slightly less. Don't forget to get the tyres inflated to about 30 lbs/sq. in. before balancing. If you leave them at 18 or so there is a very real possibility that the tyre will deform when rotated at high speed and probably make balancing impossible. And don't forget to let some air out afterwards!

Nillbymouth's idea is probably, the best bet. I've got rubber floor mats and they don't fit .

Found out how to remove immobilizer, so I did! And replaced it with a dummy which hard wires the feeds to the ECU and/or fuel pump and starter motor (Which never gave any trouble anyway). Just to note also that there has been no trouble starting since I cleaned up a few earths. Only time will tell if I've cracked it or not!

Many thanks to all for the info. I think that the comments on the Haynes manual are only too true but since the photos. in the CC online manual differ from what I've got I was hoping for some basic information. Now I have 20Mb of .pdf to wade through. Well, it should keep me occupied and out of the bars through the winter. Tried Le sevener but found nothing specific to my engine.

I have recently procured a 2012 superlight r300, but very little information. To partially fill this gap could someone tell me which Haynes manual should be procured please so that I have, at least, something on the engine? Browsing the net shows about four versions of this engine none of which corresponds to the one in the car! This is the one I have: Model number DHE420; serial number E4057/003 - KM Help!