CharlesElliott

OK - so you just bought Tony's blue and white ex-race car?

It's not a bad choice. CR322s are certainly hard wearing.

It came with no seats. You could order one or two Tillet seats with the order (I ordered one). And yes, black Luke harnesses. They didn't have 'Caterham' on them in those days though.

2004 order form http://tripleeracing.co.uk/academy2004/archives/images/Completed%20order%20form.jpg

I (still) have and race an Academy 2004 car, and I have the original order form. I'm sure I have an order form for a 2005 car somewhere - it was the same with a couple of option changes, that was all. Nose and rear badges - cars came with standard round nose badge, some cars were supplied with a Caterham X Power rear badge, some not. Alloys were 8 spoke Anthracite wheels. All cars came with a full cage, manufactured by 'Caged'. Side impact bar was mandatory. You can read my historical blog at www.tripleeracing.co.uk. I also have the Academy 2004 end of season video! Why are you asking?

Why do you need to tighten it? I never do these very tight because getting them out is almost impossible if they get stuck. And they aren't really vital to the roll cage's purpose.

You can do it the same way on an S3, no problem. Only challenge is aligning the gearbox spline on the way back, but that's basically the same as the SV.

Are modern wheels this poorly made? In my experience, yes. The previous wheels (8 spokes) were terrible for run out. But I don't get vibration, although they are balanced every couple of hundred miles as it is a race car....

No, yours will be imperial.

Sorry, I meant ignore the post.

Ignore

Have you tried Oily/Dave/DVA Power? (same person!)

Is this to race under some regulations? Or just to get HANS? - Most race series will require evidence of Arch or Westbury doing it if chassis is modified - 3" or 2" belts are fine, but you cannot use 2" belts without a HANS - The MSA have somewhat mixed views on brackets depending on which scrutineer speaks to which contact at the MSA. - There are specific rules around drilling helmets for HANS, and some are never able to pass scrutineering when drilled. There's lots more detail, but in the first instance, it depends what you are trying to use it for.

I've updated the file again to include all the sheets I have....(finally got round to starting the garage tidy up!) Latest version is still: here. Charles

I've recently got Sky Q so have a Sky+ HD box going spare; collect from Weybridge only please, I want to avoid the hassle of packing/sending it. I'm sure I can throw in a remote too!

I can't speak for BMW specifically, but on my Audi, if you use the official harness it activates trailer light detection, trailer stability control etc. For that reason alone, I would be looking to use the official harness.

I clean mine after every race with Plexus. After 10 years my Arai was looking great. I now have a Bell and it is wearing well.

I also have a 2004 Academy car, but I raced it in the Academy and still race it now. We all got Xpower badges but they meant nothing, it was just how Caterham branded things at the time. I actually think I threw mine away a few weeks ago!

I assume the one in Weybridge is mine, you are welcome to borrow it.

If you have had a failure, it is quite likely there is stub axle damage - it may be light enough not to be an issue. You will only know when it is all off.

On the updated stub axle/bearings, the seal is part of the bearing - there is no separate seal. To replace the front bearing - remove wheel - remove brake calliper - remove split pin from castellated nut, remove nut and thrust washer - pull off hub with outer bearing - remove inner bearing, assuming it hasn't welded itself to the stub axle! Remove shim washer against upright - press or drift races out of hub, assuming hub isn't damaged - press or drift new races into hub - grease new bearings and smear grease on races - replace shim washer, inner bearing onto stub axle - put on hub and outer bearing, ensuring that seals seat cleanly within hub - replace thrust bearing and nut - tighten by hand whilst spinning hub clockwise - nip another eighth turn and align holes for split pin - replace split pin, calliper and wheel

Redline do a kit of hub, bearing and stub axle - it used to be slightly cheaper than the cost of a hub from Caterham. Changing the bearings and hub is not complex, but it is not the simplest of jobs either.

I think stub axle switch was in 2004 so you should already have the updated hub.

If you need both out, take out and put back as one.

The lap bolts are generally shallow head ones to avoid fouling the side of the Tillett.