Throbin

Oh - and according to the parts site, the aluminum box sections are no longer available. So now im more confused!!

Hi All, I have a 98 chassis car with lowered floors which I an currently trying to fit Tillett seats. The drivers is done - but was a tight fit. However I cannot see how the passenger one will fit. I have adjustable rails (I now know about the aluminum rails which may help) but the issue seems to be around the width of the flat portion of the floor and the seat belt anchorage bolts. The width of the flat portion of floor is 350mm. The O/A width of the seat runners is 355mm - so obvious clash. I presume the aluminum runners are narrower than the adjustables so may cure this issue? However it still looks like the seat needs to further over towards the tunnel to clear the outer seat belt mounting bolt. I know there is a fair bit on here about how tight Tilletts are - but I cant find anything with the same issue. Has anyone hit this snag before and have suggestions to overcome? Thanks, Robin.

Thanks Jonathan

Hi, I am re-doing my dash and installing a stack Fuel Gauge. To programme it correctly I need to know the Resistance range of the standard Caterham sender. Does anyone know this? The car is a 1998 1.8K Supersport originally. Thanks, Robin

Lost the knob off the end of may heater control cable for a 98 series 3 - anyone got one? Cheers, Robin.

Graham, I used to use a Hellier baffle in conjunction with an apollo and it seemed to work for me - it was certainly better than without it. I have since upgraded to the full dry sump system and I think I still have the baffle in my garage. I'd be happy to sell if you are interested. Robin.

Skip, Are these items still for sale? Thanks, Robin.

7WofW, I had a yellow stripe done recently by CJ Tallis - albeit on an older car but he said there is not a paint code for "Caterham" yellow as it has varied slightly over the years. They mix paint to match. Surprising really!

Told you I know nothing about VVC heads! Thanks for clarifying Oily - and the engine is going great thanks! Robin.

Slider, I'm not up to speed on VVC heads as mine is a non VVC but I'm not sure you need solid cam followers. I had a K16 head fitted by Dave and his gang with 285H Cams (hydraullic) and I got 206 bhp. This may be slightly cheaper option. I already had Jenveys, airbox, emerald and Powerspeed 4-2-1 but Dave abd hs crew changed the head and fitted Omega pistons, new rods and bearings in 1.5 days with the engine in the car. As Simon says - bit for Dave and his crew. Robin.

Pelico, Looks very neat - do you have a catch tank? Can't see one in pic. Cheers, Robin

Carl, I'm running a CC Dry Sump system but with the Pace tank in front of the footwell as you describe. I ran the feed to the sump around the front of the engine as I wasn't keen on routing the hose either over or under the bellhousing as neither seemed ideal. The route around the front required a marginally longer hose (but only 50mm approx) and runs nicely to the sump inlet. The top hose connection to the pump does run nicely over the bell housing and then under the throttle bodies. I have had one low pressure issue recently which was caused by too little oil in the system. I was seeing low pressure under severe braking. My system is relatively new so I am still getting used to it. Since topping it up the pressure has returned to normal. Robin

Guys, thanks for all your comments. As its sunny here this morning I topped it up with just over half a litre and went for a blat. The pressure is now fine, even under severe braking, and very little was spat into the catch tank. Hopefully I have now found the optimum level for my set up. As Stu says its a fine line between too much so its spits it out and too little when pressure is lost. Cheers, Robin *wavey*

Guys, thanks for your comments. Mark - yes I do mean 4.7 bar but as Stu says below this is at mid to high revs, not idle. The drop in pressure was repeated several times, each time braking hard! S M25 T - um I think its electrical. There is a metal cylinder to which an oil pipe runs from the pressure take off adjacent to the filter. This then has an electrical lead that runs to the gauge. Stu - I did think it could mean I need more oil, but I thought on D/S systems you put enough in until it just about stops spitting it out into the catch tank. Is there a better method? Cheers, Robin.

On a blat in this afternoons sunshine I noticed a fairly severe drop in oil pressure under heavy braking. The car is a K Series with a CC dry sump system with remote tank in front of the passenger footwell. My OPG is a SPA. I'm fairly sure it has enough oil in the system as some is being spat into the catch tank. Normally the pressure is around the 4.7 bar mark once warmed up, but under braking it dropped to just over 1 bar but soon picked up again. I'm realatively new to the dry sump set up so all comments appreciated. Cheers, Robin.