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CharlesElliott

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Everything posted by CharlesElliott

  1. I'm in Weybridge as a slightly closer option.
  2. They earth to the chassis (but you have tested that earth by running the 12v from the battery?). So I assume you are not getting 12V at the connectors when you push the button, so trace it back with a meter to see why not....
  3. I've used pull the dot fasteners on a tonneau (the directional durable dot fasteners) and as long as you fit them in the right direction, i.e. opposite to the wind force, they work very well.
  4. TSK in Erith do the paint for Caterham.
  5. Cruciform. Probably done it 300 times and all is OK. If I'm going to go underneath the car, jack on the towing eye and then an axle stand under the cruciform.
  6. I don’t think so, but i’ll pull it apart once the season has finished.
  7. I have a misting of oil - I believe it is diff oil but I guess it could be gearbox oil coming back through the tunnel - forming on the forward facing side of the fuel tank, just in line with the centre of the De Dion. I don't think there is a breather on the BMW diff. I'm sure I've seen similar oil patterns on other cars. Where is the oil coming from? Charles
  8. As Stu said, the speedo is gearbox driven via a quil, that plugs into a connector in the transmission tunnel and then onwards wiring into the speedo.
  9. For the head: BA8233 BDG HEAD 2.0L, BIG VALVE NOMINAL BORE OF 90.00 mm, 1.400" INLET & 1.200" EXHAUST From here: http://modatek.co.uk/parts-lists/bd-parts-list/
  10. I don’t know if things have changed but Titan will refurbish racks if you go direct - however they cannot replace the rack itself or the case as they are the parts that Caterham own. If you call or email them they should be able to tell you what is possible.
  11. As per the title - could someone point me to the best Haynes manual, or alternaitve.
  12. Can you actually access the inside for all of them? if you can then the only downside is the damage it will do to the body if one gets hit/ripped off.
  13. I thought I would make Jonathan happy by re-starting this thread :-) What is the right Haynes manual for the 1.6 Sigma (mine is a non-VCT version)? Charles
  14. They do (or did) a selector tool that takes you through a series of questions to come to the right product. I even printed it out in case I couldn't find it again. The answer to your question is almost certainly 243 though.
  15. All of the 1.6K race cars use forged pistons that are slightly turned down to keep the CR the same. They do re-use the interference pin and rods though which isn’t ideal. But free from engine regs you could convert to floating. I’m sure that Oily and others have options available.
  16. I know nothing, but while we are waiting for Oily to show up, i would suggest ovality given the markings. Or maybe too much endfloat on the crank?
  17. The calipers may be from a Sierra but the brake discs are from a Triumph Spitfire, same as the fronts.
  18. I’ve yet to fully document this but the wire into the tachometer is a normal voltage feed, but the output from the tacho to the gauge is a pulse (I’ve had an oscilloscope on it) so you’ll need to use the signal going into the tacho rather than the output.
  19. Put the strips underneath the floor, i.e. on the outside of the car where the bolts from the seat rails through.
  20. They are tight and the Caterham version is a bit narrower. Tillet will shave a bit more off a B6 if you ask them but too late for that now! I’d recommend 8mm of washers on the right hand side to tip the seat away from the side panel. I would also recommend 5mm thick strips of aluminium underneath the floor longitudinally to help spread the mounting load.
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