CharlesElliott

From an engineering perspective I would agree that 24 (or 12) is probably too many but regs require a sealed firewall so if you don't use all the holes then you have to block them some other way. I find that a nice pan head screw is as good a way as any.

Airlocks not really a problem. If you have a radiator with a bleed at the top as Caterham radiators do, T it into the expansion bottle and then everything sorts itself out automatically.

Hi Mankee Questions are good, will answer those on this thread. I'm not sure what the gearbox plate allows - as this is an imperial chassis there would be no need to accommodate the Mazda box. Yes, I will run with no thermostat and no bypass hose. Usual for racers to avoid the slim chance of the thermostat sticking closed. On the propshaft I was just getting the propshaft supplied with the car refurbished. Two new UJs (which they said were pretty good anyway) and a rebalance. As Bailey Morris and Titan are just a few miles from Arch is was easy to drop them off Charles

As some of you know, I have had to rebuild my race car from both a chassis and engine perspective. The chassis had had a 6mm twist in the front for a few years, and I had a large rear end accident in qualifying at Donington so decided to refurbish the whole thing and get it painted after 11 years with bare aluminum panels. The engine also lost its oil at Donington so needed to be stripped down and inspected for oil damage. As it turned out, there was no oil damage but quite a lot of other problems! The rebuild involves a few things you don't normally have to do, like fitting the loom, brake pipes and extinguisher plumbing. On top of that, I modify a few things so the car is easier to maintain as a race car. Caterham rebuild 2015 Charles

I have some but they are a bit small and weedy - was trying to get the correct size.

I can't find it on Caterham Parts....

Well, on an imperial chassis it does. Maybe it doesn't on a metric one....

Yes, the ignition lock has security bolts that need to be drilled out/sawn off. This part http://caterhamparts.co.uk/product.php?id_product=1172 Note that this comes affixed to the chassis when delivered from the chassis manufacturer.

Thanks Dave, I may have misunderstood what I was getting in 2010. I can at least ask some more educated questions about the current rebuild (different builder to the 2010 builder). Charles

Hi Dave I'm sure you are right. When originally fitted in 2010, they should have been brand new rods and pistons (but I'm not convinced). Charles

Chris - have sent you a Blatmail for a bit more info if you don't mind...

Top end - September 2012 Bottom end - April 2010 (new pistons and rods)

What a gudgeon pin fitting shouldn't look like. Note the gap on the right hand side where the pin has moved across to the left through the rod and no longer makes contact with the piston body.

Spoke to the engine builder today (approved engine builder for our race series). My engine had suffered from oil loss, but upon stripping it down there wasn't really any oil damage....however, it did need: - two new (forged and machined) pistons due to gudgeon pin migration; one piston was no longer held by the gudgeon pin on both sides. one new rod due to the above, weighted to the other four. - two replacement liners due to the above. One had a step in it and one had a big score in it from the flappy piston. - replacement crank due to the flappy piston wearing it. - replacement camshaft due to crack in existing camshaft. new timing sprocket as existing one was loose on cracked camshaft. - replacement clutch plate and then all the other 'standard' things during a rebuild; new rings, new big end bearings, big end bolts, inlet and exhaust valves etc. 120bhp here I come! Charles

I suggest you measure the battery voltage before and during cranking and see what it says. A decent multimeter (or better a memory scope!) will be required. This should help determine whether it is a voltage drop problem or not.

Ah - so on narrow track, you just use a normal 1/2" nyloc?

This one. Are they for the spherical joint uprights or the trunnion ones? I thought they were for spherical joint but now I have them, I'm pretty sure that just a 'normal' 1/2" UNF nut came off. Charles

Redline Components sell them.

Done all that....it's getting the new gaitor on that I'm struggling with!

How do you get the new ones on then?!!?

M1144s probably won't be enough if there is a good pad in the back - but you can see how it is.

My initial feeling is that you have a 'good' pad in the rear, whereas what you really need is a good pad in the front and a relatively bad pad in the back....

Do you have standard front (Girling type 14) and rear (Sierra) brake calipers?

I just looked in my pile of goodies and I have a boot divider already.

Thanks. Mine's a race chassis so I think they had aluminium on top of the plywood. Mine is a 2004 Arch chassis, 're-imagined' in 2015 as an Arch imperial chassis