c7trp

I had a similar problem last year. In the end I found leak was actually due to the rubber seal on the thermostat not being properly seated leading to a leak between the two halves of the stat body. The housing is not a tight fit into the water pump body, looks like the obvious spot for it to leak. I bought a new housing in the end, and only when transferring the stat from old to new housing did I find the rubber seal on the thermostat was not fitted properly. 😔

Jam the flange of male bit of the thread with a small screwdriver to stop it turning whilst screwing the speedo sensor on. The bit you are screwing the sensor onto looks like this I don't think it needs to be very tight. Make sure the threads are clean to make it easier! Edited by - c7trp on 29 Jan 2012 22:50:31

IIRC the collar is located in the 'box by a circlip, and is free to rotate. (The collar is a 'top hat' shaped in section) HTH

Silver Grey in Windermere was me 😬 Not a bad day for a blat, even if it was to work.

Just checking you've put the prop in first Otherwise you'll have to do all of this again Dont ask me how I know.... 😔

I think to convert from auto to manual tensioner you'll have to drill and tap the block as the holes are in different places.

and C7 TRP and S7VRN ! Lancashire to Goodwood and back via Shropshire, Cotswolds and Stratford Excellent event

Sounds like a short to me, whip the boot floor out and check the wiring / connections. IIRC disconnecting the two wires at the sender and joining them together should give full on the gauge (ign on). Disconnected you get empty. If not look at the wiring. If you do, check the sender / sender connections.

Hi, interested in the mirrors, can you send pics? YHM

Mark Stacey of Z and F Tuning re-mapped my Eu3 ECU last week. Mark is very knowledgeable, and patient enough to explain what and why he was adjusting the various ECU parameters. I have learnt a lot from him - the MEM3 is a clever bit of kit. The results are very impressive. The car has much more pull mid range and seems to rev much more cleanly. I don't have any rolling road figures, but the car feels more torquey when over taking and easier to drive in traffic. Mark increased the tick over RPM to 1000 which helps the idle problems associated with valve overlap, and also as a welcome side affect stops the gearbox input shaft rattling at tickover. My car is a standard 1.8K with verniers and Powerspeed 4-2-1 exhaust and this upgrade seems to suit these very well. This weekend I have traveled just over 500 miles with no problem using both 95 and 97 RON fuel, although Mark recommends 97 RON on track. A good value upgrade I think. I have no connections with Mark or Z and F Tuning, but thought I should share my good experience with this company

Twas me On way to the south for the weekend See you wednesday Paul

Done! Thanks for the idea though

Has anyone got a photo of the top of the fuel tank? I need a sanity check with the orientation of the fuel gauge sender. It only ever reads half full - but seems to work OK when removed (checking resistance) and the wiring seems OK. (Short gives full, open circuit gives empty) I'm assuming the float is fouling a baffle or something? The sender has been on the garage floor for a few months over winter during my rebuild so it could be 🙆🏻d Also this isn't the original tank that the sender was fitted to Currently the float arm is at the 2 O'clock position as you look down onto the tank and looks to be clear of all of the tank internals. Hoping I've missed something simple before I lash 40 hard earned on a new one

I found the Think one unreliable, so I used a one of a mini (its the same thread) here or any motor factor IIRC I got a 20psi one...

I have a pair of standard front springs from a 2003 road sport with standard track

I had these symptoms when the battery was dying. The volt drop at idle seemed to cause the ECU to struggle to keep working. I was seeing (IIRC) about 9.8v at idle. I assume the alternator can't keep up and idle revs? Easy to test - use some jump leads and a known good battery (eg from tin top 😬 ) and if all is OK warm idle wise then time for a battery. Problem was worse with verniers and the lumpy idle this gives

YHM

Hi James I don't have it to hand, but will get some dimensions / piccies for you. Postage shouldn't be too much of a problem...

I have a K-Series silencer (in Lancashire) Don't know if it helps?

I don't know if this will help you, but I've just re-fitted an EU3 alternator, starter and loom. My alternator is the Bosch one. There is a two wire connector for the low current 'control' circuit. This runs over the oil filter housing and along the front of the engine below the crank pulley. (The plug is a rounded end so it can only be fitted one way) There is a thick, high current, lead running directly from the alternator output terminal directly to the starter solenoid (and to the battery) I would have thought the EU2 alternator would work, but the plugs may need changing to suit? HTH

Here are the bits I used from Think. Their Doc Number is SI303104 / OR267691 6/5/2010 if they need to look the bill up HEF2-55-5L M14x1.5 FML Long DT for 5/16 FER-M14 FERRULE for 13-13.5 OD Hose This was swaged by Think on to FBA0600 -6 FC333 Racing Hose (260mm long) Cost with club discount and delivery £10.38 HTH

The Guys at ThinkAuto sorted a fitting out for me. Let me know if you need the part number...

They've arrived then 😬 (Hope they're OK?) I used double sided carpet tape from B&Q. Makes it easier to pull the carpet back to remove to get to top shocker bolts

Just ordered one from CC today Out of stock "can't get them" at Redline Local Ford dealer looked blankly at me 😔 Alternative is to remove the back cover and tap out for a braided pipe etc.

These guys seem OK. Brakes International - Rochdale £46 IIRC Or buy a refurb kit and rebuild yourself?