Edzup Ezzer

Congratulations on the new website. I have not the slightest idea how much effort it takes to deliver (some understatement) it but well done to all those involved! Familiarity with a new website takes time and popular and useful new features may not be found or go unnoticed without a bit of handholding to lead us around our nice new 'home'. One item that has migrated successfully is the Forum User Guide, which probably now needs a rewrite (quelle surprise!). Further than that, a simple idiots guide to help us 'senior' users learn our way around might be useful (I'm sure someone has thought about this, or does it exist already, if so I've missed it - apologies for stating the obvious).

I think Mavic means Aldon Automotive.

Might be just a different 'calibration' for the new sensor. If nothing else has been changed then I wouldn't be too concerned unless there are other indicators of a change in water temp.

#16 Shaun, I would caution against the idea of combining front indicators with the headlamp units. This is a trend which I think makes it much harder for other road users to distinguish between side or headlights and turn indicators, particularly where extremely bright LEDs are concerned and is surely a retrograde step. When the indicators are located in a completely separate position it is so much easier for other users to see them. Integration makes no sense to me. OE manufacturers have been guilty of exactly the same mistake, usually in rear lamp clusters where different functions are stacked in concentric circles and it becomes difficult to distinguish between them when illuminated. VW made this mistake on some Golf models, and have since gone back to increased separation of tail light functions. Rant over.

As Jonathan points out, there's loads on Blatchat about LED headlamps and having looked through much of it, I'm struggling to find a link that will take me to the much vaunted Wisamic LED headlamps to fit 7" bowls. Would someone kindly post a link that will take me there directly. My current LED set-up has the performance but are neither MoT compliant or E marked so think I need to change them.

Another vote for the Classic Additions stretchy cover. Fits very well and protects the car.

Thanks Guy. Great advice. Sorted!

When i tried to post on Chitchat i got this error message. Of course, this probably means i can't post in this section either, but what is one supposed to do?

Just changed my Banner for a Yuasa U1 which is an easy swap. The Yuasa is slightly longer (ie 'wider' in the car) so doesn't fit the battery tray as it is but the solution is simple. Rotate the battery & tray through 90 degrees, and with some minor reworking of the tray the Yuasa U1 fits easily without changing the cables. Only just fitted the Yuasa in mine so can't comment on longevity yet but Yuasa's have a good reputation, and are readily available at competitive prices (£49) from Halfords. You could still fit a Banner in the new orientation if need be.

Just in the process of installing a Yuasa U1 to replace the standard Banner battery. The Yuasa is reckoned to be more resilient than the Banner, being less vulnerable to being run flat and other abuse. I've had to rotate the battery tray through 90deg as it's a tad longer than the Banner so won't fit the battery tray in it's current orientation but the change is an easy one, needing just a simple mod to the tray. The standard battery cables still fit. When I've finished the install (still need a reworked strap over the top) I may post something on here for others to consider. The Yuasa is easily obtained from Halfords for a mere £49.

I was given a hide and copper one many years ago (in my youth!) which I have to this day. The hide head fell out once which rather surprised me but I was able to reinsert it by judicious use of a vice to effectively lock it in place with a slight twist of the head in the socket. I have heard it suggested that soaking the hide head (presumably in water) would soften it enough to allow it to be pushed in whereupon it would dry out and stay in place. I've never seen it done so can't confirm that it works. Roadsport06 - I guess Thor's seemingly very expensive cost for fitting a new head in an existing hammer takes into account the additional work of removing the old hide head, having read the method of replacement detailed on their website. Even so, it is prohibitively expensive, possibly designed to test your desire to save a hammer that has some obvious emotional attachment for you. Many of us will have similar inherited items that have assumed significant sentimental status, well beyond their material worth. There's nothing wrong in that.

i have used classic silicone hoses in the past and found them very helpful. The company came under new ownership a couple of years ago so i can't comment on their performance but i have no reason to doubt that they still provide great service.

I'm assuming this change to the MoT only applies to headlamps and doesn't signal similar changes to other lights such as tail lights and indicators?

Hi Stu, Thanks for the comprehensive explanation. I may have worked it out for myself, eventually, but I much appreciate your very clear demonstration of how it goes. Removes any doubt about how to do it for which I am grateful. I've ordered said part from Caterham but they didn't have any plugs to fit the existing sensor locations. They reckoned that one was 1/8" NPT and the other one was probably M12. This has since been confirmed by Chris at Redline (who else?) so now I'm after some blanking plugs (Chris didn't have any either at the moment). eBay to the rescue I think. Many thanks, and to John for the remark about the 'reply bug'. Ezzer

TomB, Your post intrigued me. I've not seen the two outlet pipe you linked to before. Where is it supposed to go in the cooling circuit as the original 'submarine' pipe for K series was so called because of the side outlet ("conning tower") which connects to the expansion tank? Presumably the pipe you show only works if it is fixed in place via the stud to ensure the temp sensors maintain their electrical connection, or some other means is employed to ensure the electrical connection is complete. My K series car has never 'behaved' well when it comes to the cooling circuit, which conceivably could be down to heat soak from the exhaust manifold and not a real cooling issue at all! It has never behaved as well as my mate's 1.8K which demonstrated the sort of behaviour I hoped for and all the measures I've tried (regarding bleeding - T piece, hole in the thermostat etc) have had little beneficial effect on my 1.6K. Ezzer NB FWIW This post was a ‘reply’ to TomB (post #12), not #15 so why the header to this post says it’s a reply to #15 I have no idea!