Edzup Ezzer

Congratulations on the new website. I have not the slightest idea how much effort it takes to deliver (some understatement) it but well done to all those involved! Familiarity with a new website takes time and popular and useful new features may not be found or go unnoticed without a bit of handholding to lead us around our nice new 'home'. One item that has migrated successfully is the Forum User Guide, which probably now needs a rewrite (quelle surprise!). Further than that, a simple idiots guide to help us 'senior' users learn our way around might be useful (I'm sure someone has thought about this, or does it exist already, if so I've missed it - apologies for stating the obvious).

I think Mavic means Aldon Automotive.

Might be just a different 'calibration' for the new sensor. If nothing else has been changed then I wouldn't be too concerned unless there are other indicators of a change in water temp.

#16 Shaun, I would caution against the idea of combining front indicators with the headlamp units. This is a trend which I think makes it much harder for other road users to distinguish between side or headlights and turn indicators, particularly where extremely bright LEDs are concerned and is surely a retrograde step. When the indicators are located in a completely separate position it is so much easier for other users to see them. Integration makes no sense to me. OE manufacturers have been guilty of exactly the same mistake, usually in rear lamp clusters where different functions are stacked in concentric circles and it becomes difficult to distinguish between them when illuminated. VW made this mistake on some Golf models, and have since gone back to increased separation of tail light functions. Rant over.

As Jonathan points out, there's loads on Blatchat about LED headlamps and having looked through much of it, I'm struggling to find a link that will take me to the much vaunted Wisamic LED headlamps to fit 7" bowls. Would someone kindly post a link that will take me there directly. My current LED set-up has the performance but are neither MoT compliant or E marked so think I need to change them.

Another vote for the Classic Additions stretchy cover. Fits very well and protects the car.

Thanks Guy. Great advice. Sorted!

When i tried to post on Chitchat i got this error message. Of course, this probably means i can't post in this section either, but what is one supposed to do?

Just changed my Banner for a Yuasa U1 which is an easy swap. The Yuasa is slightly longer (ie 'wider' in the car) so doesn't fit the battery tray as it is but the solution is simple. Rotate the battery & tray through 90 degrees, and with some minor reworking of the tray the Yuasa U1 fits easily without changing the cables. Only just fitted the Yuasa in mine so can't comment on longevity yet but Yuasa's have a good reputation, and are readily available at competitive prices (£49) from Halfords. You could still fit a Banner in the new orientation if need be.

Just in the process of installing a Yuasa U1 to replace the standard Banner battery. The Yuasa is reckoned to be more resilient than the Banner, being less vulnerable to being run flat and other abuse. I've had to rotate the battery tray through 90deg as it's a tad longer than the Banner so won't fit the battery tray in it's current orientation but the change is an easy one, needing just a simple mod to the tray. The standard battery cables still fit. When I've finished the install (still need a reworked strap over the top) I may post something on here for others to consider. The Yuasa is easily obtained from Halfords for a mere £49.

I was given a hide and copper one many years ago (in my youth!) which I have to this day. The hide head fell out once which rather surprised me but I was able to reinsert it by judicious use of a vice to effectively lock it in place with a slight twist of the head in the socket. I have heard it suggested that soaking the hide head (presumably in water) would soften it enough to allow it to be pushed in whereupon it would dry out and stay in place. I've never seen it done so can't confirm that it works. Roadsport06 - I guess Thor's seemingly very expensive cost for fitting a new head in an existing hammer takes into account the additional work of removing the old hide head, having read the method of replacement detailed on their website. Even so, it is prohibitively expensive, possibly designed to test your desire to save a hammer that has some obvious emotional attachment for you. Many of us will have similar inherited items that have assumed significant sentimental status, well beyond their material worth. There's nothing wrong in that.

i have used classic silicone hoses in the past and found them very helpful. The company came under new ownership a couple of years ago so i can't comment on their performance but i have no reason to doubt that they still provide great service.

I'm assuming this change to the MoT only applies to headlamps and doesn't signal similar changes to other lights such as tail lights and indicators?

Hi Stu, Thanks for the comprehensive explanation. I may have worked it out for myself, eventually, but I much appreciate your very clear demonstration of how it goes. Removes any doubt about how to do it for which I am grateful. I've ordered said part from Caterham but they didn't have any plugs to fit the existing sensor locations. They reckoned that one was 1/8" NPT and the other one was probably M12. This has since been confirmed by Chris at Redline (who else?) so now I'm after some blanking plugs (Chris didn't have any either at the moment). eBay to the rescue I think. Many thanks, and to John for the remark about the 'reply bug'. Ezzer

TomB, Your post intrigued me. I've not seen the two outlet pipe you linked to before. Where is it supposed to go in the cooling circuit as the original 'submarine' pipe for K series was so called because of the side outlet ("conning tower") which connects to the expansion tank? Presumably the pipe you show only works if it is fixed in place via the stud to ensure the temp sensors maintain their electrical connection, or some other means is employed to ensure the electrical connection is complete. My K series car has never 'behaved' well when it comes to the cooling circuit, which conceivably could be down to heat soak from the exhaust manifold and not a real cooling issue at all! It has never behaved as well as my mate's 1.8K which demonstrated the sort of behaviour I hoped for and all the measures I've tried (regarding bleeding - T piece, hole in the thermostat etc) have had little beneficial effect on my 1.6K. Ezzer NB FWIW This post was a ‘reply’ to TomB (post #12), not #15 so why the header to this post says it’s a reply to #15 I have no idea!

I think what you are after is actually better known as a thread gauge. As you say, there are loads on ebay and they can be bought for as little as £3. I wouldn't recommend one of those but for a few quid more you should be able to buy a half decent metric and imperial set for about £10-£15. You can spend a lot more but for your probable needs a set for less than £15 should serve you well. Make sure the markings on each 'leaf' are legible. Mine cost less than a tenner years ago and are very useful but the markings are hard to read. Keeping them lightly 'oiled' is a good idea. You make no reference to measuring diameter, essential when using a thread gauge. Presumably you have that covered? If not you can pick up a reasonable vernier caliper for a similar amount. I see there's even a Moore and Wright 6" vernier (a well regarded brand) available on-line for £20 delivered, or even a Mitutoyo for under £40! Whatever you use, get one with a case. As you've already found out, acquiring the 'necessary' tools is an easy way to spend "significants amount of money" but with care you should build yourself a decent tool library. Ezzer

I've just checked mine. The front part of the seat frame fouls the centre tunnel well before the adjuster gets near the bolts securing the seat to the floor. That suggests there is something fundamentally different between your car and mine as it's not a problem I could encounter on mine. I'm pretty sure on my car (difficult to see) that the bolt head sits well down in the runner channel and the adjuster would pass over the top, if it could get that far forward, which it can't (IYSWIM)

Andrew, I think you and Dave (DVA) Andrews are the 'go to' guys for all things K series for which we K series users are all very grateful. Just got myself a new bookmark in my browser. Cheers!

The proper tool for this is the Pres-N-Snap but they are rather pricey at c£180 each so not really the sort of thing many of us would buy for occasional use. There is a crimping tool offered by ScottR400D in the 'equipment for loan register' for poppers which could be what you need. Just a suggestion but given the cost of the genuine article I do wonder if the club could buy one for loan via the same register. Having used one (not mine sadly) I can vouch for the fact that it's easily the most reliable and effective means of fitting hood and boot cover poppers. Ezzer

I bet if you go to a scrapyard you'll soon find one in better nick than the one that you're describing and for a lot less than £58. I've never known one fail like that in that sort of time frame. Ezzer

Garth, Not an expert so on slightly dodgy ground here, but I think it's the other way round. I fitted the Freeform items which have polycarbonate lenses and (unspecified) plastic reflectors and beam 'shaping' is managed by the reflector, unlike the CC originals which use the glass as a lens (old technology). From the Wipac website it appears that the Quadoptics also have glass lenses (which act as lenses like the CC units) and metal reflectors. Current industry practice is for polycarbonate 'lenses' with beam shaping achieved by plastic reflectors. Have a look at almost any modern car and you will see that there is virtually no optical function designed into the 'lens'. Incidentally, fitting the Freeform unit was very straight forward, being like for like in terms of retention method. Overall, swapping the light unit and fitting LED bulbs shouldn't trouble anyone and even fitting LED sidelights is not difficult, only requiring the addition of some in-line connectors for the flyleads on the LEDs that I used. Ezzer

Changing the reflectors is important to get the best out of your LEDs. Mini Spares do the Wipac Freeform units without bulbs (so you can fit your own choice from Classic Car LEDs) for £21 ea plus P&P. Ezzer

Andrew, When I read some of your posts I'm left with a mixed sense of awe, bemusement and inadequacy, but please don't let that stop you (as if!). I am speaking as one who has good reason to be grateful for your assistance. I also wonder if you've found the secret to living without sleep?! Ezzer

FWIW I fitted a Stebel Nautilus to my Seven years ago and I am slightly reluctant to use it because people give you a dirty look as it makes them jump, but that is kind of the point isn't it. So I have to say it does what it's meant to do. It gets their attention! Installation is straightforward. Bolted on in place of the original horn with a relay triggered by the original horn feed, switching a feed taken off the battery with an inline fuse fitted very near the battery.

Thanks Andrew. You contribution was particularly helpful. Ezzer