Edzup Ezzer

Like Rampmonkey, my Seven has had an intermittent creaking/clicking sound from the dash (driver's side I reckon) for ages (for ages read years) that I've always assumed was speedo related. Never been able to confirm my theory but it seems most plausible and there's no evidence of any other source so I've just learnt to live with it. Thankfully its not that frequent, and doesn't follow any discernible pattern but it's bloody noisy and annoying when it crops up. Anyone else recognize those symptoms? Edited by - Ezzer Ezzer on 7 Aug 2013 15:21:30

I think you'd be happy with either make. As Blue7 explains, the Soft Bits for Sevens one was the original so that's the one most people have, and as far as I know, just about everybody thinks it's the d's b's, myself included. Ezzer

Thanks for that Ian. FWIW Already had a close look at the connections to the pins in the plug. No issues there. Ezzer

Richard Frankson "¿qué?" Ezzer

The LH channel in my Microcom 3 headset (from Sensorcom) has failed so all that functions is the mic and the RH earpiece. I've confirmed this by a process of elimination so it's not a) me or b) my Autocom SPA set. Has anyone else experienced this sort of failure with their Microcom 3 headset, as this is the second one that's failed on me. What's the view on Microcom reliability? The first one was replaced FOC by Sensorcom because of a similar intermitent failure, soon after I had it, but that was a while back. I'm not expecting a similar response from them this time. Ezzer

The tailpipe on my '97 1.6K Supersport is blowing. There appears to be a fracture right round the pipe where it exits the rear of the can. Hopefully it can be repaired so does anybody know of somebody who do this (either on the car or off the car) in the Kenilworth/Solihull area? I guess its stainless so presumably I need someone who is a TIG (or MIG?) welder. Any suggestions gratefully appreciated. Cheers Ezzer

Grease your wheel nuts - no! You should never grease wheel nuts (or any other fixings) if you then torque them up to the quoted figure as the torque figures are designed for 'dry' fixings. Lubricated fixings mean you overtighten and stretch them which leads to failure. Not that that seems to be the cause in this case but as a rule don't lubricate torqued up fixings. Greasing them may also lead to them coming loose. Ezzer

You might like to read this essay on the K series to get a rather different (and positive) view of the K series.

I have a Carcoon. Great bit of kit and am considering replacing it with the new Veloce version with the frame, like the Airchamber, but it maybe just a bit wider than would fit well in my garage. More investigation req'd. The smallest Airchamber is a bit narrower but is longer which might be a bigger nuisance in my garage. You can't win. Would agree Carcoon are OK to deal with but are terrible at answering their phone. Can't think of any other company I've tried to contact who are as bad as Carcoon at answering their phone. Gripe over.

FWIW I tried a few and found Media Player Classic Home Cinema gave the best playback performance. It's very simple and plays GoPro videos without any hesitation or freezing and of course its free. Ezzer

Roger, thanks for your input. I've ordered one at 770mm. I mean, what is c6" between friends?! Whatever, it's got to be better than the alternative I was looking at i.e. a cut and shut job with one of those 90deg elbow connectors off ebay. Eccles, I've noted your advice re number of connections. Cheers

I'm trying to find, with very little success, a 4 pole 3.5mm x 600mm lead to connect my iPhone to my Autocom set-up. I can find longer and shorter 4 pole 3.5mm leads, but none around 600mm long. (Normal 3.5mm leads are usually of the 3 pole variety - ie stereo leads) A search of Blatchat produced nothing. Does anyone know of a source of such a lead, or someone with the wherewithal and means to make such a lead up for me? (The longer ones are way too long leading to a very untidy/messy installation) Google searches etc have not been very fruitful, save for a 90 deg connector on ebay which requires soldering skills way beyond my ken. Ezzer Ezzer

Trickiest bit for me was getting the new belt on, even with the tensioner backed right off. Takes a lot of patience and at least three hands to get it started but once you do, it goes on easy. Fine now it's done. Perhaps somebody has a useful tip on how to do that bit. Otherwise, like the man says, make sure you get the right one and compare length with the old one before you fit it.

Hi Geko, rather like the look of your lights. What is their brightness and illuminated colour performance like? How does it compare to standard tungsten lighting as some LED types are disappointing in this respect? Cheers Ezzer

Numpty brain says thanks for explaining that. Do I feel a t**t or what. Understand now. In my defence others that should know (not on BC) didn't mention that either. Cheers.

Thanks for all the help guys. Bro-in-law has procured (he's in the tin-top service trade) a Gates kit (K015416XS) for me which apparently has twobelts in it (not seen the kit yet - have yet to collect it). From the Gates & Seekpart24.com websites the kit contains 5416XS which is the VVC cam belt (26mm wide) and also 5417SX which is a lot shorter (68 teeth, 23mm), plus the tensioner (presumably the manual version). I'm just wondering what the second belt is for? Sorry I didn't put the business Oily's way but bro-in-law's receptionist jumped the gun a bit - "Get a price" I said. Ezzer

Looking to take the easy(er) route here. So that means I'll stay with the manual tensioner ifit means drilling and tapping the head to fit an automatic tensioner. So can anyone confirm if that is correct? Ezzer Edited by - Ezzer Ezzer on 30 Sep 2011 21:35:48

Can anyone tell me what the Gates cambelt kit part number is for my 1.6K Series Supersport? I am assuming I can change it to the wider VVC spec cambelt (as recommended by Oily) and an automatic tensioner? I've looked at the Gates website and read the numerous K cambelt threads on here and am bit confused over which kit I need? Cheers Ezzer Edited by - ezzer ezzer on 30 Sep 2011 13:16:25

You'll be lucky coz Banner's have a reputation for not recovering once they've been 'flattened'. Near dead you have a chance but deaduns are, I beleive, just that, kaput! It all depends on how long you've been charging it to see if you have any chance but I wouldn't bet on it making a proper recovery. What you do from here is a matter of judgement, depending on what it's like tomorrow, and even then it may let you down. It's made me wonder what one might do to avoid a repeat in the future. Maybe somebody else has a suggestion.

Hi Barry, Well it seems like you've done it, for me at least. I can see the folders and the photos in them. One little issue though, first run through in 'play' mode and some of the photos are not correctly displayed, showing only the top left quarter of the image (ie image centre is in the bottom right corner of my screen - if that makes sense) but let it run and next time through they all display correctly centred on the screen. So yes, you seem to have cracked it so thank you. I can now see what people are talking about. Good fiddling Barry! Cheers Ezzer Edited by - Ezzer Ezzer on 6 Aug 2011 11:56:12

I have the same problem as Golf Juliet Tango in Firefox (3.5.3) and IE6 (I know it's old but that's we are obliged to use here in the office). We run XP here and I have the same problems at home, also XP & Firefox (latest version but not Beta). Frustrating. Ezzer

The menu bar doesn't auto fit to the window - you might find maximising the screen reveals all Aha. Therein lies the explanation! Easy when you know how. FWIW Looking at their website further; without having it set to full screen the 'Contact Us' option does not appear on their menu bar at all. Most odd and irritating. Cheers Edited by - Ezzer Ezzer on 20 Jul 2011 15:29:12

They may well be real craftsmen, but very secretive ones at that. They're website does a very good job at hiding their location which I would imagine is a slight impediment to further business? Market Drayton is my best guess. Am I close?

Having raised the car at the front, pulled the bypass hose of the heater valve and with aid of some clear plastic tubing pushed onto the valve with the end raised a foot or more above the heater and a funnel to pour coolant into the bypass hose I managed to get some more coolant in, until it appeared in the clear tube. I then topped up the rad throught the bleed hole until I could see it was full and I could see the expansion tank filling up. Buttoned everything up without spilling hardly a drop. (those ally trays ready meals come in make great drip trays as you can bend them to fit into spaces much better than plastic ones) Now I think I've finally done it. Ran it up to 80+ and everything that should got hot - heater hoses first, then top hose then finally the bottom hose. Just been for a short run (c5 miles) and the temp gauge never rose above c90 and it idled happily when I got back. Header tank level barely moved. By jingo I think I've done it with my own variation on the Carmichael & Forshaw methods, with a bit of other advice thrown in. Thanks for all the free advice guys. Edited by - Ezzer Ezzer on 7 Jun 2011 21:42:36

Johnty, it's the top hose alright I'm filling, not the one to the stat. Not sure what you mean by the 'club foot'? Raising front of the car is next step and fill via rad bleed hole and expansion tank. I do note that many posters recommend squeezing the bottom hose vigorously but that is not easy with Caterham rubber hoses, as my thumbs can testify. Need to change to silicone ones which are much softer but that's not going to happen before we leave on Thursday. Anyway, appreciate the advice. Regards Ezzer